Converting stock fuel pickup to AN

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Those are for the newer style (stupid) fuel line connections that we don't have. They also look aluminum so you can't weld/braze/solder them to the stock fuel outlet.
 
Ok thats what I figured, thanks. I guess I'll get some stainless AN fittings and have those welded on.
 
Maybe if you cut of the flare at the end they could work? Same basic style as the newer fuel line ends.
 
the newer style has a lip that retains the cheap plastic clip the fitting snaps to. If you absolutely have to have AN ends on a stock pickup, I'd find some mild steel fittings, ream them to size and secure them.

If it were me and I was going through that much trouble I'd melt the solder joint on he factory feed line, swedge the hole out bigger and move up a size. Then the AN conversion can be done on a bench and sweated in place later.
 
Oh lord, there's no way I'd trust an aluminum fitting screwed onto a piece of then walled tubing. Not with over 60PSI of fuel behind it (ready to spray all over an exhaust pipe). There's just not enough meat there for full thread engagement.

it's a simple sweat joint to get that tube out if you want o modify it in a safe and workmen like fashion. (caveat.... I've never done that, but when I modified my hangar for a Supra pump, the sweat joint on the return line (that happens to be the pump ground) had a cold solder joint. 10 sexonds with a torch and it was better than new.
 
I am about to do this very thing, there are several ways to do it. There is the cut and use a compression to AN fitting (expensive) or cut and flare to JIC 37 degree with a tube sleeve and nut (about 75 cents) and access to a JIC flaring tool. I will post some pics as I go.
 
Would it be out of the question to sell your current sender/pump and buy a new Racetronix AN Sender with pump?
 
Yea I was looking at the RobbMc assembly. I just funny want to run an external pump. I tried to but a racetronix assembly but they canceled the order and I'm trying to get my car switched over in the next 2 weeks.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Finally had some time to work on this. I started with a bastardized return line by some butcher. The return was cut at the frame had a compression fitting with about 40 bucks in brass fittings down to less than an 1/8 inch ID and was routed hideously in front of the motor. I tried to put the factory crimp on with a buddy’s hydraulic flaring tool it was hot that day I was rushed and I used the wrong adaptor. It would have worked but he needs it to make a living and I didn't have the balls to borrow again. So I came up with a plan B, convert to AN fittings and still retain the removability like factory. I also ordered the whole return line to the tank in case I can't get the pressure low enough. The line I ordered was all Teflon lined -7 AN Stainless for the feed (true 3/8 ID) and Teflon lined -6 AN Stainless for the return (true 5/16 ID). The fittings came from Discount hydraulics. com , I can't say enough good things about them. I learned a lot from their Tech guys and they made and crimped the lines just exactly as I ordered. Eric had a thread at the TT forum about return lines from regulator to the tank. He used a NOS 16 ft. line -6 which is a 5/16 ID I was able to have them make a 16 ft. -7 AN Teflon 3/8 ID for 2 bucks more with really nice ends. Purchased a Ridgid part # 41162 37 degree flaring tool from build.com for 100 bucks and away I went. http://www.build.com/ridgid-41162/s201008?source=trm_TrackingNumber


Here is the turd I started with

DSCF3188_zps05eae0c4.jpg


return on frame ready to flare to JIC / -4 AN

DSCF3165_zpscbc1cfad.jpg


Flaring complete

DSCF3172_zps05a19b4b.jpg
 
Last edited:
This is what I had to start with on the motor, someone hastily removed the engine by cutting the rubber on the feed and return lines.

DSCF3175_zps8e8e176b.jpg

DSCF3174_zps49e0637c.jpg


Feed line was also kinked where the oil pan meets the block in this photo above
Flaring tool in use below

DSCF3185_zps93f06293.jpg


Flare completed now -6 AN feed return was done as a 5 AN fitting and a 4 AN fitting on the frame. i used a straight -5 to -4 AN adaptor at the frame and ran a drill thru to make it .250 ID to match the return line.

DSCF3186_zpsc34e2f25.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here is the feed line at the frame, I simply cut the factory Oring end off and flared it to -6 AN

DSCF3161_zps06c5c443.jpg

DSCF3158_zpsb5a16b17.jpg


here is what the flare looks like when done

DSCF3183_zpsf88c3229.jpg


The Final product

DSCF3191_zps900ad0a3.jpg
DSCF3190_zps5d07026a.jpg
DSCF3189_zps86a59bab.jpg
 
There are other ways to do it. Discount also sells a compression to AN fititng, if you didn't want to buy the tool. I plan on doing the Fuel Sender as well. I bought a -6 to -5 AN adaptor for the return. I am debating on the feed because I have a 4.1 coming soon. Any questions Pm me I'll try to help.
I am considering renting the flare tool if there is interest.
Hope this helps somebody.
 
That is one meaty flaring tool!

I love seeing stuff like this (when I'm not the one doing it!)

If GNbeginner was still alive I'd be showing him this thread and insulting his manhood to build some fuel lines and get his car running! LOL
 
Great write-up & pics, I will be doing some changes soon as go to E-85 , thanks for the thread.
 
Back
Top