Cooling problems

[HighDesert-T]

At a loss here. I have replaced the T-stat, radiator and flushed this thing twice and still it runs into the red zone. Funny thing is that when it is sitting still the temps drop. I did the fan test with a roll of newspaper and it doesn't stop. Is there anything that may be getting over looked? Could even be a bad sensor. Haven't got that far.

Thanks.

 

[b4black]

How about a collapsing lower hose? At idle it could be open, but at higher RPM's it might collapse, preventing coolant flow. That's why they high that coil inside them. It might be broken.

 

[HighDesert-T]

I tried taking the RPM's up to check for that, hose checks good.

 

[MY85pontiac]

hmmm my car used to get REALLY hot as well but not anymore.

i changed my old two row for a 86-90 caprice plastic tank/aluminum core radiator and a black magic fan. i dont run nowhere near as hot anymore.

i too did all the things you did and is till ran hot, i could never figure out why and to be honest i stopped trying to work with old tech parts that were simply obsolete compared to what available to our cars now.

the radiator cost me 110 bucks, the fan cost me 200 bucks, stainless steel flex hose cost 100 bucks.
(the upper is too short because the radiator i'm using now is about 4.5" wider) and along with buying a couple of new clamps, coolant and distilled water (i simply refuse to use tap water) i now have a nice consistant, more efficient, cooling system. there is now less drag on the engine (i can actually feel a difference), better gas milage (i can see the needle going down to E at a slower rate now) and my engine is happier now. even in stop and go traffic it never gets close to overheating.

you might want to look into this kind of set up for your car, i know it works for me.

 

[Freddie's Buick]

My old heating problems were a combination of small problems. The thermostat housing leaked due to a cheap gasket and the radiator leaked at several places. The leaks were so small that I could never find them. The radiator hose clamps were also loose at both ends allowing for pressure loss.

The best way to check for overheating problems is by doing a pressure check. To buy the vaccum pump for such a test is expensive for a one time try, ($60.00). Auto-Zone, an auto parts franchise has a free lend a tool program for these types of problems. I don't know if youy state has one but do a search on the web. (They do have a website).

When I finally found the culprits in my overheating problem I tossed the old radiator, fixed the other buggers and bought a three-core HD radiator for $120.00 with a life time warrenty. Also, I installed an after-market temp gauge for future problems. It's been 2 years since then and I never had to look back!

Good luck!

 

[fc227]

Some times I have seen a impeller spinning on the shaft of the water pump. how old is the water pump?

 

[Peter]

Been there ,done that! New rad. fixed it.

 

[b4black]

The turbo V6 and 4.1 use a different fan than the 3.8 NA. With the correct fan and 165° thermostat, I ran ~175°. That fan died, and I temporarily replaced it with a junkyard 3.8 NA fan (new correct fan is expensive). Now it sometimes goes up to 220°. The two fans have different temperatures at which the clutch engages.

 

[HighDesert-T]

Now that is interesting cause that is where my hangs out, 220. Southern Auto says they have one for about 45 bucks. Will double check and ensure it is for the turbo before I buy.

Thanks, could of been chasing this thing for a long time. Gonna see if they have a sensor too.