Cranks, Starts, Then dies??

T

Turbo317

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2001
basically thats what is happening to me, sometimes i can barely keep the car running if i feather the gas. i put a new crank sensor, fuel pump and fuel filter, ign module and coil pack on thus far. I have also tried swapping ECM's and chips. I have adjusted my cam sensor, and when i looked at it, ring was tight, and cap was not broke. any way that it may still be bad? Tps. is reading .40 when key in on position.
Any ideas?
 
thats what i thought to, but i put a new set of 44's in today, it made the slightest difference but still dies almost immediatly.
( 43's where in before) The new plugs it makes it start a little better, but runs terrible and dies. if im lucky i can keep it running by feathering the gas and only a few seconds.
 
Originally posted by 87natl
10 to 1 t's your MAF. Disconnect it and see what happens.
Click to expand...


I would agree my car was doing that and that is what it was. Also just to make shure have you checked all you air piping and silicone hoses for major leaks that will do it to.
 
alright i tried disconnecting my maf, and :) it ran much better. then the check engine light came on after about 10 seconds for a code 34. so im gonna get a new maf and see what happens.
THanks all
 
You got it!

With a bad or malfunctioning MAF your computer has no idea how to properly administer fuel, and they get whacky. Sounds like you're on track. Let us know.
 
ok i put the new maf on today, it started up and it still ran a little rough. if i let off the gas it would die. so i took it up 2000 rpm's. it ran smooth BUT... i was getting alot of popping out of the exhaust. I kept it running for about 2 minutes like this to see if any codes would set, but none did. Now the car is doing what it was before, hard to start, and if i do get it started, i have to keep the feathering the gas to keep it running. Any idea's now????
 
You said that it ran better when you disconnected your old MAF. Give us some more detail. DId you actually try to drive it around a bit? (gently) If not, give it a try. Can it handle a little load. Nobody around here has ever gotten a new MAF that was no good. Right? ;)

If disconnecting the MAF is smoothing out your problem, I suspect your problem is fueling-related and you can eliminate any ignition items at this point. Fouled plugs from a bad MAF are possible and you may need to swap them out again. But I would rather stay focused on the fuel side.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What are your readings? Steady?

Don't know if you have a scan tool. But is your oxygen sensor functioning?

Running for a while with a bad MAF can foul all sorts of things up, like plugs and o2 sensors.
 
everything ive done is with the car sitting, i can't get it to stay running long enough to take it on the road. the fuel pump is brand new 340, same with hot wire kit and new fuel filter. i am getting plenty of fuel pressure. The 02 sensor is maybe a year old at most. I was think maybe a bad camser, because of the hard starting and all the popping out of the exhaust. I have reset it following gnttype.org procedure. But i guess it could still be bad. when the i got the car running, i was getting no codes, no knock, and the 02s were around 500-600mv's. (this was at 2000 rpm). what you think??
 
Sounds like you may have some kind of vacuum leak to me. Check all hoses and report back..

James
 
a bad vacuum leak would cause a pop in the exhaust?? ... where should i start to look, cause i can't really get it started to spray carb cleaner to look. ?
 
Well I was getting a loud pop today because a vacuum line off the wastegate popped off. Could be anything like that...

James
 
the wastegate vacc lines arn't really vacc lines at all. they are completley seperate from any vac. a vac leak would cause a lean condition, i.e. unmetered air and would show on the block learn values... a lean condition usually makes a pop out the intake and rich out the exhaust. are you sure the maf you got is any good??? many of us have had problems with new mafs being bad outa the box. do you have access to a "known" good maf?

if unplugging the maf makes everything happy, i would try to get my hands on a known good one.

also, usually, if a cam sensor is bad, the car won't start, although i have seen a few starters but bad runners. but if you havn't touched it, i'd rule it out...i'd maybe try turning it a little left....then right ....if no effect, put it back to it's original position.

basically what i'm saying is try to get a known good maf and see what happens.

good luck
 
ok, i got my hands on a known good maf today, tried swapping and no change... i think i may have had multiple problems. Well now i have a crank and hard to start, and im lucky if it starts, and if it does i have to keep the gas on to keep it running, thats why i was thinking maybe my cam sensor is bad, because of hard start and all the popping im getting out the exhaust??? i have reset it following the gnttype.org procedure. what you think???
 
I had a cam sensor that the key way on the inside of the cap broke that was allowing the window to move around it was hard to track down but causing the same kind of backfireing you have.

If you can borrow a whole unit not just the cap,I would try that.

John
 
im prolly just gonna a new sensor cross my fingers. I thought of this, but i dunno if it would cause my problem. I have 205/205 reed cam........ does the cam sensor need to be advanced for the cam i have?? or anything like that?
 
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