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Jdsluckybu

GBFL
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
49
ok guys. i converted from carbed sbc to buick

im good with electrical and on a budget. Who isnt? lol

ok so i traded for this clean 84 hot air car. the story on it is the short block was rebuild and with under 50 mi the heads gave up. the guy that i bought the car from bought some lightly ported heads with good spings. slaped them on with arp bolts and was good to go till under a 100 mi the turbo gave up.

off to St Joe Diesel for a turbo rebuild and had some larger wheels installed.
car runs and drives great so long as your cruising. it will go into boost half throttle and under that 1/2 throttle the boost will build around 8-10 then the boost slips away. this thing has a casper chip with the 8 adjustments and im wondering with the head work and the turbo work if the chip is not up to speed with the engine.

the check engine light comes on and im sure the knock sensor is not hooked up

i know these are some noob qs and i know i need to start with the ck engine light and get the knock sensor stuff squared away. i just dont want to spin my wheels

it has a casper knock gauge and i just slowly climbs. i think due to the knock sensor being un plugged.

so does the chip need to be updated?
does it sound like the cam sensor needs to be adjusted?

IM LOST:confused:
 
I would get a scan tool and read the SES code first. Why do you think it is the knock sensor? A knock sensor which is not torqued right can give you problems. The mods you mention should not have an effect on the ECM chip. Solve the SES problem first. Post up what code you are getting. Good luck- Brad
 
i dont think its the sensor but the plug in was hanging there and i guess i was wondering what kinda display you should see when the casper knock gauge is working correctly

light moves around quick or just has some or one light lit up?

i will scan it first and post the code just the casper chip has me worried

the car just feels like it has a rev limiter in it but the cutting out is not consistant like a rev limiter would be. this is in mode 2-7
it just pulls up to a certin point and power just cuts out bad
 
now on with the adventures of my hot air soga

so brad has me give him a call. sends me wicked info on my code 31. after running back and forth from the comp to the car i traced down vacuum line probs.

moral of the story. you cant hook up waste gate vacuum hoses to the coolant port on the throttle body. (that wasnt me) lol

ok so during some testing last night i pull the car out to make quick trip to get the check engine light to come on so i can pull a code

its the only time that the car responded and pulled wot. sure enough the check engine light came on. when i pulled back into the drive way the car started running terrible, dead miss. i wasnt too concerned since i knew i was fighting a waste gate prob and the plugs and wires were in desperate need of new ones

so no more ck engine light, new plugs and wires........... still have a dead miss and breaks up under small load low speed 1/4 throttle and up

i found that this car has no knock sensor in it at all. i found the connector hanging


whats the probablity i seriously messed something up??

im going to check the coil and pray thats what it is but man iv got a bad feeling about this
 
update, replaced plug pass side front

runs smooth at idle for 30sec and picks up dead miss

its running rich for sure at idle, on scanner iv got 34ish to 90ish mv for oxygen sensor but every time i work on the thing i end up smelling like rich exhaust.
i know exhaust leaks pre o2 sensor is bad but a dead miss after running smooth on start up??

injector harness looks like crap. i will be running a cold and then hot compression check on this cyl.

known good spark at coil and out plug. black on plug ( getting fuel)

untill tomorrow i guess..................
 
get your injector harness figured out and check the injectors wouldn't be a bad idea, if you have a bad one it will cause a lot of issues. If the car has sat for a while the injectors will get varnished up and not flow properly either.
 
installed new knock sensor and hooked it up, were showing knock now. the belt is loose on the ps and when you tap the brake, the belt makes noise and it sets the gauge off.

so i started messing with the ps belt and it appears that there is a bolt missing from the bracket to pump and a tan wire that is pinched between the bracket and the engine. maybe its an injector wire and thats the miss..

will keep updated
 
100_0807.jpg


this plug came out of #2 with ten min of easy driving

camera wont focus so sorry so far away

looks like the spark was making its way down the side and not throught the electrode. new plug and still miss

any takers lol
 
ok guys, for what its worth the little yellow wire that has the green connector that was smashed is a tach lead. when not grounded will let the factory tach work:D

i narrowed down the miss on #2 to an injector problem so i will be calling codymotorsports for a cleaning, or try to find a lead on one good injector cheap. anyone???

for now that is what i got.
 
this weekend brought good results

installed new injector and made sure all the turbo mounts were correct and doubble checked all vac connections

to say the least i was impressed. boosted 20 lbs and runs out great.

so why so much boost? i doesnt like that much due to the fuel that is in it
would the actuactor control this??

its the best this car has run since i got it.
 
The length of the waste gate actuator rod controls boost-shorter equals more boost. Remember-the boost and rpm gauge (stock) are worthless. I would advise turning down boost until you get a knock gauge. Good luck- Brad
 
thats the funny thing, i have a gauge and it seems to work except it doesnt show knock when its knocking just when you hit the blinkers or shift on the shifter. it will also move other random times at idle. im going to look into that next
 
Get your knock sensor figured out and turn down the boost to about 15 pounds to error on the safe side. Glad the injector thing worked out.
 
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