diff rebuild

[futten]

anyone know of a thread on rebuilding a 7.5 10 bolt diff?

 

[dr_frankenstein]

whats do you need to know? I just built one here at home.

 

[futten]

the more the better im thinkin i should change out all the internals so yeah

 

[dr_frankenstein]

its easy really, just depends on what your changing out.

the hardest part is pulling the yoke..... you will need a yoke holder and puller.

as long as your bearings are okay ( i would suspect they probably are) then its mostly a seal and gear replacement. easy easy stuff.

however, the choice in gears will be largly dependent on which carrier you have. since your a car, i reckon you have the 3.23 and lower unit. it will either require the gear to match, or a spacer.

get the depth tool from Ratech (also the pinion tool) and setting lash and crush is easy.

 

[futten]

the rearend is already in pieces just banged the pinion out with a hammer ive ordered a ring spacer its at charlies with a bunch of other parts
hes sending me a ring and pinion its used but im hopping its still good im thinkin do i need new spiders and side gears? charlie also said if theyre bad then change but thinking sins theyve been there for 32 years and was driven for 27 so im just unsure i preffer new so im sure everything is good

 

[dr_frankenstein]

well if you have it all completly torn down, you might as well order a re-build kit with new bearings and seals and most importantly a new crush collar. once that stuff is out and about in the open, especially if the locations havent been kept- it all questionable and usually garbage.

since your building this car for performance, you should trash the stock carrier and get a posi or locker to replace the carrier. this will eliminate the need for the spacer.

cause 300 lbs of torque in combo with a set of slicks and a nice loose converter will blow the spiders out of the carrier.

 

[futten]

it is a posi originaly and im using a 4 speed manual

 

[dr_frankenstein]

okay, so if its posi.... there are no spider gears to worry about. and since it is posi, double check to make sure it does need a spacer. not all do.

 

[futten]

ho ha no i wrote wrong not a posi its a limited slip

 

[ek02]

One thing a lot of guys overlook is the pinion bearing preload. When you crush the sleeve with a breaker bar and long pipe, be careful not to get the pinion bearing preload too tight. The correct way to do it is to use an inch pound torque wrench to measure the rotating torque. It is usually about 35 inch pounds of steady pressure as you rotate the pinion. If your pinion has a depth setting, it's easy to get the shim thickness with the depth tool. If not, you will need to use gear marking compound to check the pattern. Check a shop manual for acceptable patterns. A used gear is hard to read a pattern on sometimes. If you have to change shims, you will need to press the pinion bearing off again. That's where the pinion depth tool comes in handy to get the shim right before you crush the sleeve. I always get 2 sleeves in case I mess up the pinion bearing preload changing shims. It can take a lot of time to set up gears so they will be quiet. The pattern is the main indicator of how the gears mesh and how quiet they will be. If you are very lucky, the carrier bearing shims may give you the right backlash. If not, you can get a shim pack from the dealer or an aftermarket source. Good luck with it.

 

[bison]

ho ha no i wrote wrong not a posi its a limited slip

They are the same. Posi is a GM brand name