I've been trying to figure out a knock problem for a while and have started using DirectScan.
1. Does real knock go away if you keep your foot in it? Reason I ask is that looking through a bunch of files I've made, I always start to get knock (usually starts at a fraction of a degree then increases to up to 6-7 degrees, usually much less) which quickly goes away and I finish the run (foot to the floor) with zero degrees. It always comes on about 30-34 MPH.
2. How do you tell when knock appears on a shift? As above, I start to get knock at about 30-34 mph, while the RPMs are still rising. Several DS frames later I see the drop in RPM that to me indicates a trans shift. Is the trans shift indicated exactly at the point that the rpm drops?
(O2 look OK, FP rises apporpriately, BLM's/INT about 124-128, Hotwired Walbro 340, FP 43 lineoff....did I miss anything?)
Thanks
T+ with LS1 MAF
50# injectors
TT street chip for 93 octane
Boost limited to about 13#
Otherwise stock
1. Does real knock go away if you keep your foot in it? Reason I ask is that looking through a bunch of files I've made, I always start to get knock (usually starts at a fraction of a degree then increases to up to 6-7 degrees, usually much less) which quickly goes away and I finish the run (foot to the floor) with zero degrees. It always comes on about 30-34 MPH.
2. How do you tell when knock appears on a shift? As above, I start to get knock at about 30-34 mph, while the RPMs are still rising. Several DS frames later I see the drop in RPM that to me indicates a trans shift. Is the trans shift indicated exactly at the point that the rpm drops?
(O2 look OK, FP rises apporpriately, BLM's/INT about 124-128, Hotwired Walbro 340, FP 43 lineoff....did I miss anything?)
Thanks
T+ with LS1 MAF
50# injectors
TT street chip for 93 octane
Boost limited to about 13#
Otherwise stock