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eagle crank questions/preparation

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sdteb

trying to get it like you
Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Messages
1,787
what is needed for install of this crank by machine shop other than internally balancing with my sfi flexplate and bhj balancer???

Thanks in advance
 
sdteb said:
what is needed for install of this crank by machine shop other than internally balancing with my sfi flexplate and bhj balancer???

Thanks in advance

clevite rod bearings of chamfer others ;)
 
sdteb said:
what is needed for install of this crank by machine shop other than internally balancing with my sfi flexplate and bhj balancer???

Thanks in advance

make sure flywheel bolts up and the keyway fits :D
 
Also check that the bore for the torque converter matches up. There's another thread somewhere about not being able to fit the torque converter.
 
I talked to Bryan at Webers and they can cut down the stock balancer to make it neutral. Save over 1/2 the cost of the BHJ if your on a budget.
 
getchasum said:
I talked to Bryan at Webers and they can cut down the stock balancer to make it neutral. Save over 1/2 the cost of the BHJ if your on a budget.


;)


K.
 
Check EVERYTHING... journal taper (mine was off), check counterweight clearances in block (with girdle i had less than 40 thou between one of the weights and the girdle crossbrace). Looking back, I woulda ditched the project if I had known how much this thing woulda cost to get right - both in time and money. Its been balanced twice, reground, polished, keyway redone, bearings chamfered, flywheel modified, girdle cut, balancer (slightly) honed, .... killmenow. If I didnt have some sorta connection with machinists and we didnt do the work ourselves, I woulda been over $600 bucks in machinework alone - just for the crank! Heck I coulda built my waiting 2JZ project and been spanking the pants off these buick blocks by now. one day.. one day i will be finally finished with domestics, i cannot wait!

Oh btw, the F*cking $1100 crowers i bought for this also needed weird machine work. The goddarn bearing tangs werent deep enough!? :confused:


Phil (PS: go import now! save yourself some $ and have fun!)
 
My machinest said he could neutral balance the stock hub but after starting he told me that it would still require removing lots and lots of metal from the crank to make it work properly. The BHJ also needed 4 holes of drilling to get right plus the mentioned above hone to fit the crank - they do not slip on like the stock hub does.

PhilM. I am helping a friend with a Celica All trak (got 330 to all 4 wheels with just 10psi) and a Supra (115 in the 1/4, no dyno time). There ain't nothing cheap about them either. Start pushing them to 2X's the stock output and the flaws start to show.
 
I dont mind the cheap so much as the bad design of many domestic blocks. And the 2JZ will approximately cost the same to build as any other engine. As far as flaws go, there's a helluva lot less problems in design with the 2JZ than this 109 - A LOT LESS, those engineers overseas are on point. Its not even the flaws, either... Its just that everything on the toyota block is so much higher flowing, laid out properly, and just pain ol built to last. Haha, start pushing a 109 above 5% of its output and the flaws start to show :)

I'm just about at the end of this 109 buildup and am wondering why the heck I dumped all this cash into a poorly designed block, pushing it to the verge of breaking.

But for the others doing the eagle deal, I'm going to take some pics tonight as I put the rest of the shortblock together. One thing is for sure, it will be one purdy looking engine! :)

Phil
 
As I have "heard" about the 2JZ, it sounds like it is a special block that was only used in the turbo car; a Toyota racing part, not really a normal street production block. If that is true, a more fair comparison would be to a S2 Buick block, World Products Merlin, Bow Tie wide port...
 
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