Electrical gremlins

[Wld87GN]

So I have been enjoying the shit out of this car, except I went to the garage the other day to take it out and the battery was completely dead, or so I thought.

I tested the battery, full charge. When installed in the car, I get absolutely nothing, no lights, no power at all. I decided to put the charger on the battery when installed to the car to test that out and still nothing.

Now mind you the day earlier, I was out in the car and had no problems at all.

Given the fact that I have no power to the car at all, leads me to believe that I have and issue with the ground off the battery. What are your thoughts, has this ever happened to anyone?

 

[Wld87GN]

Sorry forgot to mention, the battery is brand new, the alternator is brand new (not that the alternator has anything to do with this right now... Maybe)

 

[GNVenom]

Check <replace> both positive and negative cables, and also the fuse links at the starter stud. Your problem involves one of these.

While you're at it, inspect the electronic grounds at the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. Relocating those grounds via "ground stretcher" upgrade would be a good idea.

Reason I say replace is because many of the 25+ year old cables have picked up acid corrosion by now and have either failed or show signs of failure. Keeping the car reliable involves replacement of the weak components. Battery cables are top on the list.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Good advice from John.

The fan relays and delay relay are also notorious to corrode internally and draw power. (located under hood along driverside)

Disconnect the negative cable. Put a 12vdc test light between the cable and battery. If it lights up your drawing power. Disconnect the fan relays 1 at a time while watching the light. The light will go out when the component that's drawing power is disconnected..

 

[Wld87GN]

Ok, something is drawing power, I have a test light between the negative cable and the battery and she lights up. I have tried removing each of the relays on the inner fender on drivers side, did not change anything.

Electrical stuff is a weakness for me, I am lost here...

 

[standupjskiguy]

I've had batteries break internally. They show voltage but can't deliver any current.
I've had this twice with our 85 but the battery was a few years old.
I think it would be normal for some draw off the battery but who knows how much that is with a just test light in place.
Swap in another battery and see what happens. Otherwise the radio in these cars can cause a drain see the audio section for info on that.
If you are still stumped try your test light setup and pull fuses until you find what is drawing power.

 

[aminga]

Good advice from John.

The fan relays and delay relay are also notorious to corrode internally and draw power. (located under hood along driverside)

Disconnect the negative cable. Put a 12vdc test light between the cable and battery. If it lights up your drawing power. Disconnect the fan relays 1 at a time while watching the light. The light will go out when the component that's drawing power is disconnected..

Start pulling fuses until it goes out

 

[earlbrown]

Since you said the battery was hot, I assume you have a volt meter.


Set the meter to ohms and check between the -post on the battery and the engine. 0 ohms means you have continuity. infinity ohms means that wire is open.

Do the same thing with the hot wire. For the entire car to be dead, it has to be one of those two wires or the fuseable links.