Jan Larsson
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
- Messages
- 2,151
I'm sure many of you have bypassed, plugged or somehow eliminated the water coolant hoses that run to the throttle body.
Used to be a recommended modification back in the days to help keep the air entering the throttle body as cool as possible.
Anyway, I had a ATR kit installed that was just a small metal insert (plug) in each hose to stop water from circulating via the throttle body ... not a good solution considering these "plugs" do rust over time pretty badly ... so decided to clean up the engine a bit and elimintate those hoses.
Main purpose letting coolant circulate through the trottle body is to make sure that in really cold weather, and we are talking very very cold weather, the throttle body would not ice up; well were I live and most others live and the way our TTA's are being used there's no need for this at all.
What I planned to do was a very clean update that would look like it came from the factory without those hoses; this would include:
1. replace the heater coolant pipe on the passanger side intake with one without the water niples on there (luckily these days you can get a stainless steel reproduction with or without those nipples).
2. Eliminate the nipples on the throttle body completly rather than just leave them or plug them up.
Got the stainless steel heater pipe, had it powder coated black to match everything else; and this is a great upgrade if you ever taken one of these off your engine and looked inside how rusty these end up being after all these years.
Got a spare throttle body and did the following:
1. cut the nipples off flush using a dremel
2. countersunk the area of the nipple
3. used a tap to cut a few threads in the hole left (just to help the JB weld a bit)
4. degreesed and cleaned up the area a bit
5. JB Welded the holes up; make sure you don't use too much just enought to make it flush; you can cut it with a razor blade before it totaly cured if needed.
6. sanded the areas to smooth it all out once the JB Weld dried properly
So once I had all the above sorted I drained enough coolant to be able to disconnect lines and hoses to replace it all.
Turned out really good I think in the end.
Used to be a recommended modification back in the days to help keep the air entering the throttle body as cool as possible.
Anyway, I had a ATR kit installed that was just a small metal insert (plug) in each hose to stop water from circulating via the throttle body ... not a good solution considering these "plugs" do rust over time pretty badly ... so decided to clean up the engine a bit and elimintate those hoses.
Main purpose letting coolant circulate through the trottle body is to make sure that in really cold weather, and we are talking very very cold weather, the throttle body would not ice up; well were I live and most others live and the way our TTA's are being used there's no need for this at all.
What I planned to do was a very clean update that would look like it came from the factory without those hoses; this would include:
1. replace the heater coolant pipe on the passanger side intake with one without the water niples on there (luckily these days you can get a stainless steel reproduction with or without those nipples).
2. Eliminate the nipples on the throttle body completly rather than just leave them or plug them up.
Got the stainless steel heater pipe, had it powder coated black to match everything else; and this is a great upgrade if you ever taken one of these off your engine and looked inside how rusty these end up being after all these years.
Got a spare throttle body and did the following:
1. cut the nipples off flush using a dremel
2. countersunk the area of the nipple
3. used a tap to cut a few threads in the hole left (just to help the JB weld a bit)
4. degreesed and cleaned up the area a bit
5. JB Welded the holes up; make sure you don't use too much just enought to make it flush; you can cut it with a razor blade before it totaly cured if needed.
6. sanded the areas to smooth it all out once the JB Weld dried properly
So once I had all the above sorted I drained enough coolant to be able to disconnect lines and hoses to replace it all.
Turned out really good I think in the end.
)
