Emergency!!@$%@

[alb84]

I think it could be a crack in the flare. Pull the fitting back about an inch or so from the flare(the one on the oil line) and wrap the flared oil line about 3-4 times around with teflon tape and put it back together. That should get you to work, and to the store to get a new stainless oil line. Good luck. Danny

 

[VadersV6]

I think it could be a crack in the flare. Pull the fitting back about an inch or so from the flare(the one on the oil line) and wrap the flared oil line about 3-4 times around with teflon tape and put it back together. That should get you to work, and to the store to get a new stainless oil line. Good luck. Danny

yeah, I was thinking it was a crack, but I inspected it very closely, but found nothing. The flare was pretty big, so I thought that maybe the outside edge of the flare was bottoming out before the seat was sealing on the cone. So I carefully filed the diameter of the flare down, and filed down the face, but didnt disturb the actual seat at all. I thought this would work, but still no luck. I got some high temp (only 400 F but good enough to get me by as long as I dont heat that turbo up) goop/gasket maker that stays flexible, and after cleaning everything with MEK and sanding the line, and inside of the nut, I filled this gap very thoroughly with this stuff, and wiped off all the excess...careful not to let any of it get inside the line. Bad thing is, it takes like 24 hours to dry. Its been on there for about an hour and is still pretty wet. Ive heated the line and fitting a little bit with a propane torch (without getting the flame on the goo) a couple times, but heat doesnt seem to make this stuff react. I couldnt find any black permatex gasket maker "the right stuff". I know this stuff would work. Its the most God awesome silicone Ive ever seen. Extremely strong, but flexible. Practically dries into a medium density rubber. Use that stuff to glue to pieces of metal together, and it almost takes a hydraulic press to separate them. Bottom line is, this is hackery 1 step shy of duct tape. Funny..my Mom called me last night and I mentioned what happened. She said to use duct tape. After laughing my ass off, she said duct tape will work cause its so strong!
i got off the subject here...alb84- unfortunately, I know jack about brake lines..forming them or whatever. Given that I see nothing wrong with the flare, Im not sure what I could do from here.

 

[salvageV6]

No goop or glue on inverted flares.

I like the idea of using the 1/4" short flare brake line off the turbo and bending it to a place you can cut and use a 1/4" compression splice pipe to pipe, obviously clean them both up with a file and alky./solvent after cutting the flares off the pipes.

Otherwise just buy the 1/4" pipe and use the nut off it and cut the original back 1/2" and reflare it with a cheap one time use tool, or hit a local quality auto shop and they should be able to cut an reflare it and rebend it back into place, there's spots you can get a bit more pipe from a bend or two.

Or you can get a long 1/4" tube and rebend it to make it fit. 2 ft. line perhaps?

 

[alb84]

I would not use any kind of goop on it. You should prolly clean that stuff off, and try the tef tape. You need a new oil supply line as soon as possible, but the tape should get you going. Danny

 

[VadersV6]

I like the suggestions..I think I know what a compression fitting is, but Ill have to look around and find a picture of it. Ive used something similar with routing pneumatics stuff for the automation lines we build, but there's no hard line being used with that. I havent had luck with teflon tape and oil. Heat and oil seems to decompose the teflon pretty fast. Besides, its not leaking through the threads. Its leaking out of the coned seat in the fitting, and through the hole of the nut...inbetween the line and the nut. I looked at some pics of how people form brake lines. Its really simple. I even looked through some old toolboxes and found the flaring tools at work, but the little jawed flaring tool was cracked.

 

[Terry_H]

Compression fittings use a sleeve and nut instead of a flared tube.

I would be inclined to cut off the old flare and create a new one. You'll need less fittings this way.

My lines leaks ever so slightly. I've tightened it all I dare. It doesn't drip under the car, but it does make a wet spot on the turbo.

 

[soundguy]

mine did the same thing. The brass fitting going into the turbo stripped. Bennet Auto has a full line of fittings and adapters, had no problem finding a replacement one, exact duplicate of the original except the new one had threads on it.

 

[VadersV6]

Well the goop sealed it up enough so I could get going. I drove about 30 miles and it was leaking a bit, so I pulled it apart, ad the oil was breaking that sealer down cause its not oil resistant. I used some of that permatex "the right stuff"...its powertrain fluid resstant and can handle high temps. I think this will work for awhile, until I can get another fitting, and either make a new flare, or go to a copression fitting. I actually like the idea of going to a compression fitting. Wont have to dick around with having a perfect flare anymore.
Thanks for all the help!

 

[VadersV6]

Well that permatex never dried cause its so cold. It was leaking really bad. The guy at Kragen let me go through the drawers again, and i found 1 compression fitting. Compression on 1 end and 1/8NPT on the other. I got a 90 degree 1/8 elbow male/female and used that in place of the stock elbow. Its a little different, so i hope the spray pattern isnt horribly affected and my turbo goes to hell. So I did that and cut the flare off, and used the compression setup with some permatex high temp thread sealer..under the tapered cone inside cause the tube was pretty pocked up and old. needed something to fill the gaps. Fired it up this morning and there was no leaks. just the dozen or so sounds of an engine on its last leg.