Engine Cranks no Start

M

mkyledoyle

New Member
I have a 1927 Ford Model T. My dad and I had it built back in the mid 90's. It has a Turbo 3.8L that was to go in the 1989 Turbo Trans Am. Other than a few niggly issues the car has be very reliable until a week ago.
I took it for a drive last week and it popped back through the intake a couple of times while accelerating. It had never done that. After that it continued to run and drive fine. As it usually did. I parked it in the garage after that drive. I went out a few days ago to take it out for a spin and it cranked but wouldn't start. I was finally able to get it to start but only by working the throttle. Once it started it was obvious that it wasn't running right because it wouldn't idle. the only way I could get it to stay running was if I held the throttle open some.
I checked for codes and it had set a 42. I went through all of the diagnostics for a code 42 check circuit 422 and 423 (if I remember correctly). By the results of that testing it indicated that the Electronic Control Module was the problem. I cleared the codes and replaced the Control Module. No Change. I have checked for fuel pressure and it is ~40lbs key on and with engine running (by me holding the throttle open a bit).

I'm not sure where to go from here. I do have a Matco 4000e coming later this week although I am not sure that is going to help.
PXL_20220814_132959614.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
mkyledoyle said:
I have a 1927 Ford Model T. My dad and I had it built back in the mid 90's. It has a Turbo 3.8L that was to go in the 1989 Turbo Trans Am. Other than a few niggly issues the car has be very reliable until a week ago.
I took it for a drive last week and it popped back through the intake a couple of times while accelerating. It had never done that. After that it continued to run and drive fine. As it usually did. I parked it in the garage after that drive. I went out a few days ago to take it out for a spin and it cranked but wouldn't start. I was finally able to get it to start but only by working the throttle. Once it started it was obvious that it wasn't running right because it wouldn't idle. the only way I could get it to stay running was if I held the throttle open some.
I checked for codes and it had set a 42. I went through all of the diagnostics for a code 42 check circuit 422 and 423 (if I remember correctly). By the results of that testing it indicated that the Electronic Control Module was the problem. I cleared the codes and replaced the Control Module. No Change. I have checked for fuel pressure and it is ~40lbs key on and with engine running (by me holding the throttle open a bit).

I'm not sure where to go from here. I do have a Matco 4000e coming later this week although I am not sure that is going to help.
View attachment 386430
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Pretty car! Try unplugging the MAF and see if that helps. Is it the original MAF or do you have a translator?
 
Try this.... Start engine, then unplug cam sensor. This will create a batch fire situation. It will run rich this way but can help identify if there is an issue with the cam sensor and or it's position. Does it improve the way it runs with the sensor unplugged? You can drive the car a short distance with the cam sensor unplugged. Note: If you shut engine off, it will not restart until you plug cam sensor back in. The crank sensor is probably fine since it does run.
 
I replaced the coil pack and still nothing. I put a spark tester on the plugs and there's no spark. What would cause that with a new ignition control module and coil pack?
 
I just pulled all of the plugs. They are wet from gas. I take that as meaning that it's not an injector/fuel issue?
 
Typically it's the crank sensor or ignition module. Also check the ECM-IGN fuses and the CCCI fuse.
 
I had my ign module go bad while cruising on the freeway. Engine just backfired and shut off and wouldn’t restart
 
I just got an OTC 4000e Scanner with the appropriate module. I am not familiar with it but it came with all of the documentation. Does anyone know if you can perform tests on specific circuits to find out if there is a break or a problem in the wiring, or if you can run tests on specific sensors? I have so far only run a very basic test using the "Pathfinder" mode and the initial outcome was that there could be a wiring problem like a break in the wiring.

Thank you to everyone for providing me with information and things to check.
 
Did you replace the CCCI module on the engine under the coil pack or the ECM inside the car where the chip goes?
 
I apologize for not being clear on this. I replaced the module under the coil pack along with the coil pack.

It's difficult to figure out why it would be fine one day, parked it in the garage, and a few days later it won't start.
 
I had and IGN module (CCCI) go when idling twice, and once driving on the highway the car just dies and it won't restart.
That was over 450K miles on 2 cars though.
Time to go under the car and check the crank sensor, wiring inspection and gap check, any rubbing on the sensor replace it.
Did you get an AC Delco CCCI module or the Wells/Standard version?
Make sure the ground strap was put back on the coil pack IGN module mounting too.
Check the CCCI fuse for sure as mentioned.
 
Ok so now for some specific questions:
Since this is a custom built car things are a bit different. It does have all of the ECM and sensors. Only things required. It's been running great for 40 years.

I have checked all of the wiring between the ECM and the CCCI. All good. Also checked wiring between the CCCI and the cam sensor, crank sensor, and the fuse block that I believe belongs to the ECM and CCCI.
 
Sorry I posted that accidentally.

How would I identify the ground strap for the coil pack? If that is one of the wires under the coil pack, it is fine and connected. As for the fuses, there are three associated with the ECM and drivetrain. Those three fuses are there and good. There is no code indicated by the check engine light or by the OTC Scanner.
 
Here is a page with the signals you should have at the CCCI or IGN module. Power and ground should be verified from whatever wiring and fuses go there in your car.
On factory cars there's a ground strap from the firewall to the mounting bolts for the CCCI module assembly bracket.
IMG_0447ab.jpg
 
I get that you want help but have you actually checked the crank sensor? Not the wiring. The sensor itself, the air gap between the sensor & the reluctor ring.

Newer coils/modules have been known to be a bit suspect as well.
 
Yes I have checked the crank sensor. The air gap is .025 between the sensor and the reluctor ring. I am not sure how to test the sensor itself.
 
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