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engine install

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pajo

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
470
The question is - how complete the engine can be before you drop it in to the engine bay to be buttened up to the tranny ..I understand everybody does it different but just like to hear some opinions ..
 
I bolt everything, headers, turbo, front balancer, prime the oil pimp, install the cam sensor.. Pretty much all of it except for the dog house and coil pack, i leave those off so the chain will clear.

I dont install the alternator or ps assy until its all set in place.

Usually modify the last intake bolt on the pass side to a stud so i can install all the grounds to it, instead of the back of the head.

When dropping the motor down, i try to get the harness laid out as nice as possible so no wires get pinched.

BW
 
starter

I take it the starter stays out also ..I have found easier to install the motor mounts after I bolt up the tranny..
 
I put the start on before putting the motor on, put the starter shield on also. The harness can slide between them after the motor is set.

Last 2 motors i did, had to fight the pass side motor mount holes to line up. Made in india :rolleyes:

Was it easy to install the motor mounts on the block with the engine in the bay?

BW
 
mounts

yes it was even for gorilla hands like mine.:biggrin: once the tranny is bolted up you can lift the combo up quite a bit (with the rear tranny mount bolts loose)and bolt up the engine mounts .I cannot picture how are you putting the wires on the starter when is bolted up to the block since there is not a whole lot of room - I especially dislike putting on the little ones on the solenoid .I guess I am going to have to try that.:cool:
 
yes it was even for gorilla hands like mine.:biggrin: once the tranny is bolted up you can lift the combo up quite a bit (with the rear tranny mount bolts loose)and bolt up the engine mounts .I cannot picture how are you putting the wires on the starter when is bolted up to the block since there is not a whole lot of room - I especially dislike putting on the little ones on the solenoid .I guess I am going to have to try that.:cool:

I pretty much know what tools to use before i crawl underneath, then slide the harness over and start doing the wires. You gotta do it blind anyway.

Ill be doing it again in a couple of months, oh tons of joy

BW :)
 
I cannot picture how are you putting the wires on the starter when is bolted up to the block since there is not a whole lot of room - I especially dislike putting on the little ones on the solenoid .I guess I am going to have to try that.:cool:

Major pain, but I did it this way.
 
I especially dislike putting on the little ones on the solenoid .I guess I am going to have to try that.:cool:

Get a 1 wire weatherpac connector with 6" of wire & hook that one up to solenoid on the stand. Then hook up weatherpac connector when motor is in. I have done that to a few wires. Get the kit from Caspers for $100 & you will never need another connector set. Makes all the hard to reach wires go anywhere you like.
 
Get a 1 wire weatherpac connector with 6" of wire & hook that one up to solenoid on the stand. Then hook up weatherpac connector when motor is in. I have done that to a few wires. Get the kit from Caspers for $100 & you will never need another connector set. Makes all the hard to reach wires go anywhere you like.

Thats a pretty good idea..

What do you do about the large starter wire and others that connect to them:biggrin: j/k

BW
 
The last few engine installs, I moved the trans. back an inch or two. Just undo the driveshaft and one bolt on the trans. mount and push it back. I use a Harbor Freight trans. jack on wheels. The trans. coolant lines will have enough play to get the movement (you do not need much). For me it makes the install much easier. Also install the cross over pipe when the engine is in place.
Jeff
 
I like to put the starter on but leave the headers off.

That leaves plenty of room to get at the starter wires and motor mount bolts.

Once the trans and motor mounts are bolted up, I start hanging the rest of the parts on the motor.

I don't like having too much stuff on the motor for R&R because it's just more stuff to work around.

Here's what mine looked like a few months ago, going back together. This is right after dropping it in and bolting it tight.

DSC075282.jpg

DSC075272.jpg
 
No need to use a chain to install the motor. I use a 2'-3' nylon web sling under the upper intake. The sling will not mar up the surfaces.

I put everything on the motor minus the turbo and coil pack. I also like to leave the cam sensor out. I set the motor up to so the cam sensor will drop in. I prime the motor with all the cooler lines installed.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Thats a pretty good idea..

What do you do about the large starter wire and others that connect to them:biggrin: j/k

BW

Actually this year only 2 wires will be on the big post. One from battery in trunk & second to a Red plactic hotbox from caspers that all the others go to bolted in an easy acces place. That way I can get at all of them for testing really easy if needed.
I dont care much for reaching up into the starter even tho its a mini & much easier. With the stocker it really makes the job fast & easy.
 
pic

do you have a pic of the red box ..?Hey Youlose -your engine bay and engine are like pair of nice tits buddy -I can stare at it all day and never get tired of it ..Good job.
 
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