Engine Restraint Strap

[1 quik6]

I'm looking for an Engine Restraint strap to keep the engine from twisting. I've seen a bunch of them for the Regals but is it different for the TTA? If so who sells them?

 

[Quiky One]

I used the same one off a regal.

Jason

 

[2QUIK6]

Can also get a poly driver side mount to correct the problem so you're not putting extra stress on the accessory brackets and alt.

 

[Who Needs 8]

I've got a setup that the previous owner installed. Looks like a DIY, but pretty good.

The only problem that goes through my "novice" mind is that being attached to the strut tower, the engine is pulling more torque on the already twisting unibody. I suppose this could be countered with a tower brace, which I've been planning on installing.

(If you click on this picture, then click zoom in the webshots window, you'll get a high resolution picture where you can see the strap)

 

[1 quik6]

The only problem that goes through my "novice" mind is that being attached to the strut tower, the engine is pulling more torque on the already twisting unibody. I suppose this could be countered with a tower brace, which I've been planning on installing.

I never thought of that being a problem but it would make sense. i'm not sure if a strut tower brace would interfere though. Maybe I should be reposting a new thread now but has anyone been using a strut tower brace with the torque strap on our cars? I've always looked a strut tower braces and been concerned about clearance issues. Any brands that work/don't work??? I really hate drilling holes on the body so I'd like to avoid that if possible.

 

[1985BuickGN]

After a few builds, the best option I've found are the poly motor mounts. The best place to get them are from John at John's Performance (a good guy to deal with). I've never been a fan of the "tow strap". It looks cheap and and it's not much fun having to explain it every time you open the hood. As for the strut tower brace, it certainly wouldn't hurt, and would help stiffen up the front end. I plan on doing it to my car, and I've heard that the Edelbrock brace is good but I don't know if it fits the TTA. Haven't got that far yet. If you wanted to get crazy, you could add sub-frame connectors, but that requires welding (bolt in are not as effective) to the frame.

 

[1 quik6]

If you wanted to get crazy, you could add sub-frame connectors, but that requires welding (bolt in are not as effective) to the frame.

I already have subframe connectors. If I could only go back in time and order different ones though. I got bolt-ins. They actually seem to work pretty well but I'm really not impressed with what my mechanic did underneath my car to make them fit

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Searched through your previous post's

You only had a few posts at that time you told me you hope my wheels are crap! Just remember it is a small community!

Anyway,
Engine anchor is whats on Who Needs 8's car. You can order them from the net. I also had one on my low 11 sec TTA. They work great.

Fast with class is our motto.

 

[2QUIK6]

I already have subframe connectors. If I could only go back in time and order different ones though. I got bolt-ins. They actually seem to work pretty well but I'm really not impressed with what my mechanic did underneath my car to make them fit

If they are bolt ins, why not remove them and put some others on...or just weld in the bolt-ons that are already on there... Yes, bolt on SFC only work for a short time if at all. The TTA DP / exhaust poses a problem when installing SFC's, so your installer may have done all he could there if thats the part you are referring to.

For the tower brace, it should not require any drilling, all the ones I've seen for various cars bolt to the strut bolts sticking thru the tower..if the struts aren't tied together to make the pair rigid it kind of defeats the purpose....that said, I have not ever seen one on a TTA in person.

 

[1 quik6]

If they are bolt ins, why not remove them and put some others on...or just weld in the bolt-ons that are already on there... Yes, bolt on SFC only work for a short time if at all. The TTA DP / exhaust poses a problem when installing SFC's, so your installer may have done all he could there if thats the part you are referring to.

For the tower brace, it should not require any drilling, all the ones I've seen for various cars bolt to the strut bolts sticking thru the tower..if the struts aren't tied together to make the pair rigid it kind of defeats the purpose....that said, I have not ever seen one on a TTA in person.

The bolts have been staying tight so far so that isn't the problem. The rear bolts have a bracket that hang in the slot used to tie the car for trailering. To get them to fit my mechanic had to take a grinder and grind off an edge of the slot in the frame. If I had been there overseeing the project they would have been sent back and a different set ordered. I left it so far, but if I am to return it someday to stock I'd somehow have to cut my subframe and welt in a new slot section somehow. I actually have no idea if that is even possible at this point but usually everything is fixable just a matter of how much you want to spend to make it right. As soon as I had them installed I got into the message boards like this one where EVERYBODY says the ones I got from Competition Chassis are junk. Knowledge is power.

Anyways, back to the strut tower brace. I think most just bolt to the strut towers but some are triangular and bolt to the section above the firewall. I can see how this would help strenghten everything but I hate drilling.

 

[Quiky One]

I bought a Kenny Brown strut tower brace and it did not fit. It might be the car, but the 3 point one did not on mine.

Jason