First day with ScanMaster running...

[BlackMetal]

Yeah I know there's a scan tool forum but replies are pretty slow in there.

Well first and foremost, when I gave it about 3/4 throttle, I got a reading of 7 point something for knock. I know that's not "good" but is it pretty typical of these cars? Or should I be concerned? I run 93 octane, stock except for cold air intake, kirban 3" DP and a test pipe w/ dump tube. Any common fixes for knock?

Anyways, some of the rest:

At5 36
TPS .4 (at stand-still. Calibrated correctly?)
IAC 33
cc 25
AF 05
L8 38
INT 129
BL 145


I bought a used scanmaster without instructions, if someone has the time I would appreciate a run-down of what all the readings are, and what readings you'd like to be getting. I know about Integrator/Block Learn and all that, but I just want to make sure I know what the scanner is trying to tell me.

Appreciate the help.

 

[1BUICKGN]

knock

What type of chip are you using and how much boost? Chips with alot of timing create more knock with low octane fuel.

 

[BlackMetal]

What type of chip are you using and how much boost? Chips with alot of timing create more knock with low octane fuel.

No chip. I have only done three things to my car that aren't stock: intake, downpipe, test pipe.

 

[suicide six]

ECM Sensor Readings
Using an OTC 2000 or TurboLink (Note 3.) Description Idle Values WOT Values
O2 Voltage .45 +/- .10 .76 - .80
O2 Cross Counts 10-20 Note 1.
TPS Throttle Position Sensor .36 - .44 4.50 - 4.90
MAF Mass Air Flow 4 - 7 255 *
INT Integrator 118 - 138 128
BLM Block Learn 118 - 138 Note 2.
LV8 Filtered Load Variable 30 - 40 255 *
IAC Idle Air Control 10 - 50 ~100 Note 1.
Knock Retard 0 < 6


A knock reading of seven isnt good.This may help

 

[VadersV6]

Whats your boost?
Your BLM's are showing the engine is running lean, and adding fuel to compensate. It could be a reason for the knock. Add about 4psi fuel pressure. Is your EGR still hooked up and functional? The EGR filter ok and the diaphragm working? Solenoid working? Combustion temps at tip in could be really hot from EGR not working. That combined with a stock timing curve, among running lean could do this.
Whens the last time you changed your fuel filter? Go through a few bottles of fuel injector cleaner/ few tanks of gas, and then replace the fuel filter. Not the other way around. You could have alot of carbon buildup as well which this should help clean out.
What are your plugs telling you?
Something that doesnt seem dicussed around here too often, is that altering the incoming air stream can affect MAF readings and can cause all sorts of driveability issues, including knock. Had it happen myself after playing with MAF positions/Cold Air intakes/Custom intake tubes, etc.

 

[BlackMetal]

Whats your boost?
Your BLM's are showing the engine is running lean, and adding fuel to compensate. It could be a reason for the knock. Add about 4psi fuel pressure. Is your EGR still hooked up and functional? The EGR filter ok and the diaphragm working? Solenoid working? Combustion temps at tip in could be really hot from EGR not working. That combined with a stock timing curve, among running lean could do this.
Whens the last time you changed your fuel filter? Go through a few bottles of fuel injector cleaner/ few tanks of gas, and then replace the fuel filter. Not the other way around. You could have alot of carbon buildup as well which this should help clean out.
What are your plugs telling you?
Something that doesnt seem dicussed around here too often, is that altering the incoming air stream can affect MAF readings and can cause all sorts of driveability issues, including knock. Had it happen myself after playing with MAF positions/Cold Air intakes/Custom intake tubes, etc.

Thanks very much for an informative reply.

Adding 4psi fuel pressure. Should I just get an adjustable regulator? I've been looking at FMU regulators but I know those only increase fuel rail pressure when they sense boost. Would that be good enough, or are you suggesting I need more fuel pressure even when I'm not under boost?

EGR should be ok on a car that I bought with 26k miles, but wouldn't it throw any codes if it were broken? How can I go about checking it?

I can nab some fuel system cleaner and a new filter from work, so we'll see if that helps.

I also intend on changing the plugs soon, regardless of what they appear like when I pull them out, they're getting changed anyway.

I'd hope my MAF isn't too confused with the new intake, it still sits in just about the same position it did on the stock set up, maybe a slight bit closer to the turbo.

Stange that the scanmaster reveals that it runs lean, when I did a dyno run a week or so ago, the fuel curve showed that my car ran rich (as it should) when I WOTed it on the dyno.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Turbo, call up FTS ( Fullthrottlespeed ) from Michigan and order up an adjustable fuel reg. FTS will get to you in about a day, two days tops.

I would cool it on any boosted runs, you need to take care of that fueling issue and some maintanence issues. I also would not run more than 14psi on the stock set up with pump gas till you get the hang of these cars.

Since you just got it, replace the plugs with AC 43's, gapped no higher than .35. Replace the fuel filter and consider picking up a 340 fuel pump from FTS, talk to Mike about it.

Since you put on the Down Pipe and Test Pipe, the cars is running lean all over the fuel map, you need to compensate for the loss of backpressure by adding fuel, this is typical with the stock injectors and chip.

If you plan on getting on the car and running it fast, talk to Mike about getting 60lb injectors and a chip from them. Along with the pump, you will be good for mid 10's and idle is like stock.