I once read an article about how tires get to be unsafe after a few years. I'm sure by 10 years they are dry and cracked and ready to blow out. You don't want that to happen on the track or the expressway. The switch on the fuel pump might have been a theft deterent. Maybe the in tank pump isn't even wired up (or is missing altogether).
First time to track in 12 years with my '87 GN
- Thread starter trbogn
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Earl, thanks for all the info. New in-tank fuel pump and hot wire kit ordered. I will bypass the old in-line secondary pump. I am probably at the edge of what these stock injectors can handle. Will likely upgrade these over the winter and get corresponding chips.
Here is another pic of that fan relay spliced wire. Is goes to a factory green wire with lighter stripe. So you are saying to literally just disconnect the relay on the left? Seems like alot of stuff is going into it. Was there a stock relay that used to be here?
Sounds like I need a set of new rear tires. I will probably just order another set of BFG Drag radials 275/50/15. Does everyone have this wobble issue with this size tire on the stock rims? I feel like it is a pretty common combo for the rear. I have heard of a few guys having their stock rims widened by an inch, this may be an option.
Regarding the valve springs. Are my valve springs an issue? I thought 110 mph in the 1/4 was pretty good for a stock car? I know old valve springs can affect the MPH. I will likely never put a larger turbo, DP, or intercooler on this car. Pretty much just want a fast and safe stocker.
Here is another pic of that fan relay spliced wire. Is goes to a factory green wire with lighter stripe. So you are saying to literally just disconnect the relay on the left? Seems like alot of stuff is going into it. Was there a stock relay that used to be here?
Sounds like I need a set of new rear tires. I will probably just order another set of BFG Drag radials 275/50/15. Does everyone have this wobble issue with this size tire on the stock rims? I feel like it is a pretty common combo for the rear. I have heard of a few guys having their stock rims widened by an inch, this may be an option.
Regarding the valve springs. Are my valve springs an issue? I thought 110 mph in the 1/4 was pretty good for a stock car? I know old valve springs can affect the MPH. I will likely never put a larger turbo, DP, or intercooler on this car. Pretty much just want a fast and safe stocker.
If you hop in my time machine and go back to 1987, buy your car can and floor it.... it needs new valve springs (and a fuel pump with a hotwire kit)
The relay with two plugs is stock. Open it up and look at all the rust inside.... you'll wonder how it even works at all. (that's a trick question, as it doesn't)
Yellow with Green I believe is the wire that should be ran to the intake to the switch facing up that commands hi-speed on the fan. It looks like someone relocated it to the fenderwell. The pic is too close to know for sure. The ATR relay looks to have a thin black wire that runs to nowhere as well.
On your Rube Goldberg fuel system, rip out everything that's not stock and do this....
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/54018-how-install-intank-fuel-pump.html
The relay with two plugs is stock. Open it up and look at all the rust inside.... you'll wonder how it even works at all. (that's a trick question, as it doesn't)
Yellow with Green I believe is the wire that should be ran to the intake to the switch facing up that commands hi-speed on the fan. It looks like someone relocated it to the fenderwell. The pic is too close to know for sure. The ATR relay looks to have a thin black wire that runs to nowhere as well.
On your Rube Goldberg fuel system, rip out everything that's not stock and do this....
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/54018-how-install-intank-fuel-pump.html
Great, thanks again. Will be installing new in tank pump and hot wire kit next weekend. Great step by step guide.
I will tackle the new valve springs this winter when I have more time. What would a shop familiar with this type of work charge for new valve spring install? A few threads said 5-6 hours of labor?
Will be installing a 2.5" test pipe with electric 2.5" dump the next few weeks as well. Just have to get the parts welded up.
I bought this car when I was 18 and took the guys word on all the mods it had. Now its time to actually go through the car with a fine tooth comb and get to the bottom of what was actually done to it.
I will tackle the new valve springs this winter when I have more time. What would a shop familiar with this type of work charge for new valve spring install? A few threads said 5-6 hours of labor?
Will be installing a 2.5" test pipe with electric 2.5" dump the next few weeks as well. Just have to get the parts welded up.
I bought this car when I was 18 and took the guys word on all the mods it had. Now its time to actually go through the car with a fine tooth comb and get to the bottom of what was actually done to it.
My plans are to install a LT1 MAF and use a translater gen2.
Should I just scrap this ATR ram air inlet and place a big cone filter behind the bumper? It seems the ram air setups are now out of favor.
Thanks.
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Its the air temp sensor.
I think I will just go with a big mouth 4" k&n filter kit from TR Custom Parts with a 3.5" LS1 MAF sensor and 3.5" MAF pipe. This seems to be a nice upgrade over old ATR ran air and stock maf. Looks like a nice and clean intake setup.
I think I will just go with a big mouth 4" k&n filter kit from TR Custom Parts with a 3.5" LS1 MAF sensor and 3.5" MAF pipe. This seems to be a nice upgrade over old ATR ran air and stock maf. Looks like a nice and clean intake setup.
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