frame paint questions

[shocker998md]

alright guys, heres what im looking at right now.

On my GN i want to paint the frame, and the engine bay. And then once all of the frame is dry, i would like to shoot undercoat underneth the car.

The only rust that i have, is mild surface rust on parts of the frame, and right underneth the rocker pannels. So i figure with some time with a wire wheel, it will all bust off fair easy. Ive been looking at eastwood kits and i found this one:

http://www.eastwood.com/extreme-chassis-blk-w-rust-conv-suspens-kit-satin.html

And i figure it would do what i want it to do on the frame and the rockers, and then order undercoat from them and spray bomb the heck out of it.

any input or ideas or shoulda woulda coulda's? Ive seen eastwood chassis paint and it has held up very well on a buddy of myne's truck, so i figure all of there products should be good. And lastly do you think that one kit would be enought for the frame?

One other question that i have, is when i go to paint the engine bay i was thinking of ordering this kit from eastwood.
Underhood Detailing Kit

Then ive been thinking, theres alot in that kit that i dont think i need, so would i be better off if i got three cans of the underhood paint to do the firewall, then one can of the aluminum paint, i figure i can assemble my timing cover with the water pump and spray it with the aluminum paint, that should be all i need for the engine bay right?

thanks for any info guys.

 

[aminga]

Eastwood Ceramic Chassis black Satin here

seems to me that the Ceramic is a little harder (more like Powder)

 

[shocker998md]

i hate to be really picky, but would you either be able to email me that picture to kenneth.greve@nassau.usmc.mil, or post it in something besides photobucket.

Im a deployed marine, and these... gosh darn..... computers have photobucket blocked.

thanks
Kenny

 

[turbo nasty]

Magnet paints

 

[aminga]

I wound up with the Ceramic chassis black kit. It comes with an epoxy primer but I didn't use it. The engine bay was pretty rust free (I guess the intake and front cover oil leak was in some ways a good thing) I spent about a week with a wire brush and some eastwood PRE (paint prep) getting it down to metal and just shot the chassis black directly on the metal.

Warning The Ceramic is hard to get stirred. All the ceramic settles to the bottom. I used a specialized custom tool (A Bent piece of welding rod chucked in my electric drill) to get all of the ceramic in suspension.

Anything that will come off I would have powder coated.

 

[jlat]

hello people; I just wanted to ad that I tried that Por-15 black anti rust stuff on some under chassis components. It did last for quite a while but it did peel in areas. Maybe it was the prep that caused the problem.
IBBY

 

[regal81455]

prep

PREP IS EVERYTHING. Be sure to clean the frame as best as possible, spray with a metal prep ( zinc phosphate ) and then lay your paint when its completely dried. If you can avoid the wire wheel thats best. Wire wheels will embed the oils into a bare metal surface - sandblasting is best but not always an easy option. As Aminga said PCing would definitely be the best option and should be done to anything that can be but if that's not possible there are a multitude of good products out there. Attached are some photos of my recently done frame using Rustbullet.

 

[rmar]

PREP IS EVERYTHING

Very true,

I live real close to BFE..............:biggrin:

Where are you @.

 

[regal81455]

Ron-

I live about 30 minutes SW of the Kankakee area. When I started this project I had no idea you'd prep & PC these things for $400+/- or Id been making a trip down to see you.

Not sure if you've seen some of my threads but Ive been PCing most everything else I can myself using a caswell adjustable voltage setup. I almost bought an oven big enough to do harley frames, etc... but just don't have the room right now. I started PCing about 1 1/2 years ago when I redid my ATV ( seemed like a good place to experiment before re-doing the ride! ).

Not trying to jack your thread either shocker998md so my apologies in advance!

 

[rmar]

Those guns are fine for home use. Alan (aminga) does a lot of little stuff too. If you ever have any ?'s please ask. Not that I will know the answer..:biggrin: Your frame looks great.

 

[aminga]

Those guns are fine for home use. Alan (aminga) does a lot of little stuff too. If you ever have any ?'s please ask. Not that I will know the answer..:biggrin: Your frame looks great.

Yuppers, I just use a plain old eastwood hobby gun that has aluminum tape holding the barrel on and RTV to keep powder from leaking out between the gun and hoper

 

[G NASTY]

PREP IS EVERYTHING. Be sure to clean the frame as best as possible, spray with a metal prep ( zinc phosphate ) and then lay your paint when its completely dried. If you can avoid the wire wheel thats best. Wire wheels will embed the oils into a bare metal surface - sandblasting is best but not always an easy option. As Aminga said PCing would definitely be the best option and should be done to anything that can be but if that's not possible there are a multitude of good products out there. Attached are some photos of my recently done frame using Rustbullet.

Bringing this thread back from the dead. What did you strip the frame with? Looks great. I started with a 40grit pad and get most of the rust off but not in the little pits or tight areas

 

[regal81455]

Bringing this thread back from the dead. What did you strip the frame with? Looks great. I started with a 40grit pad and get most of the rust off but not in the little pits or tight areas

I used a sandblasting attachment for pressure washers. It makes what is otherwise a terrible job fairly manageable. You can this attachment from Northern and the like - just do a yahoo search for pressure washer sandblaster...it should come up.

 

[G NASTY]

How bad was the mess? Didn't the water flash rust everything ?

 

[regal81455]

How bad was the mess? Didn't the water flash rust everything ?

The alley behind my garage looks like I asphalted for awhile till it all settled in. The flash rust really wasn't a huge deal, we blasted then blew everything dry with compressed air. Flash was minimal at best. Once you provide a "tooth" by blasting and treat with zinc phosphate and then wiped down with a tack cloth you provide a perfect substrate for the POR15 or RUSTBULLET.

 

[regal-nut]

PREP IS EVERYTHING. Be sure to clean the frame as best as possible, spray with a metal prep ( zinc phosphate ) and then lay your paint when its completely dried. If you can avoid the wire wheel thats best. Wire wheels will embed the oils into a bare metal surface - sandblasting is best but not always an easy option. As Aminga said PCing would definitely be the best option and should be done to anything that can be but if that's not possible there are a multitude of good products out there. Attached are some photos of my recently done frame using Rustbullet.

Not to hijack the thred but did you make that trany cross member?