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Fresh motor, day after, wont start. Oily plugs.

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xspetsnazx

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2010
Messages
70
I had finally brought my car back from the shop, after full engine rebuild (new gaskets, seals, rings, etc) after a bad blown head gasket as well as cracked cylinder,
so it drove fine the day I picked it up (except the oil pressure gauge showing low, which didnt do so ever before) but I was told the oil pressure is fine because it
was checked by connecting mechanical gauge straight to the motor. Not only that it showed low near 0 as it got warmer it didnt really go up much at acceleration as it
supposed to. I bought a new fuel pressure gauge but didnt help. Next day car wouldnt start (like there is no spark or its got no fuel) yet it has good fuel flow and has
a spark, after few tries it fired back up, then I shut it off for a minute and tried to start but it wouldnt and after few tries it finally did. I drove about 5
miles w/o an issue and while on a red light, it started to shut off and made a "pop" sound, like a back fire sound and died, started then wouldnt idle and shut off,
started again after few tries and I made it just across the street (2 blocks) and it shut off, and every time I tried to restart it, it would stay on for shorter and
shorter periods of time until it wouldnt start at all ( its like, the more i got it to restart within all this time, it would run worse and worse untill it wouldnt start at all). Had to tow it back home.It sat over night, and I bought a new battery as well as another new oil pressure switch,
went to start it and it fired right up for less than a minute and idled very bad, when i tried to give gas to keep it running, it would want to shut off even more, back fired around engine bay,
check engine light lit up as well, car was shaky & idled rough, oil pressure was near 0 (within 10, cold). I pulled the plugs and all 6 are black and oily (at the shop
before pick up they were good and dry). I checked the cam sensor cap, it had little moisture (water) on the inner roof of the cap and little amount of oil around the inner
lower wall, I cleaned it up and reinstalled it. The wheel on the drive assembly is in place and has a VERY little movement back and forth (i dont know if its normal).I checked for any
vacuum leaks and such, just to be sure but didnt find any, I do have a scan master attached but I installed it AFTER it started giving me this problem.
I know it could be MANY things but if any one has an idea of what it might be please let me know, I've researched similar problems here on board but couldnt get enough info on
what it may be in my case. Near $7K later, it sits dead on the drive way. I could have bought a full rebuild motor and had it installed, for that price! Its a bad nightmare with this car that just wont go away. :mad:
Thanks in advance.
 
Maybe it was running super rich and fouled the plugs.

I will replace the plugs in couple of hours and see if it starts then. I thought of that but my fuel pressure gauge was untouched and it was running fine before. The motor is .30 over w/forged pistons, ported heads, new 100lb springs, 104/114 cam (non roller), power plate, but stock injectors and turbo. If anything, I would say it didnt have enough fuel but I might be wrong.
 
What did they do about the "cracked cylinder"? If everthing is new then you should have way more oil pressure. Something is very wrong with that build.
 
Does the oil smell like gas? Regulator might have gone bad. Pull vacuum line off regulator and see if gas comes out when you key it up. Pronto has a good question.Did they sleeve the block?
 
What did they do about the "cracked cylinder"? If everthing is new then you should have way more oil pressure. Something is very wrong with that build.

I was offered to put a sleeve in it but I end up buying another 109 block that was machined with .30 over and forged pistons.

My oil pressure supposedly is good as per mechanic, as he attached mechanical gauge straight to the motor and it read good pressure.
It ran pretty good for about full gas tank before it started having problems next day.
 
Does the oil smell like gas? Regulator might have gone bad. Pull vacuum line off regulator and see if gas comes out when you key it up. Pronto has a good question.Did they sleeve the block?

Oil does smell like gas a little I would say, I also smell fuel when I try to crank the car.
No fuel coming out of the regulator with the vacuum line off.
I got a freshly machined and balanced block (109)

I have replaced the spark plugs with new ones, old plugs were actually flooded with gas rather than oil.
 
Wow! 7K! and the thing don't run. Un frickin real!

Do you have a scantool?

Rick
 
yes, something keep saying that to me in my head as well. I wish I knew it would end up this way, I would have gone a different route and parted this thing out. Whats even worse, I just sold my second TTA w/63K miles.
No scantool, just the scan master which doesnt really help when motor isnt fired up. Im going to take it back to the shop on Tuesday and hopefully find the problem then.
 
AF - 04
L8 - 00
BAT - 11.8
Int - 128
bl - 128
clt - 82
Ats - 87
r - 000
tps - .34
IAC - 140
cc - 00
nAL - 00

TT street 93 fuel chip from Eric M.
stock MAF also bought a stock one off the board as a spare (tried both)
 
tps looks low. Key on engine off, lets turn the throttle plate screw in till tps says .40 on the scanmaster.

See if it will idle then get the readings again.

Rick
 
What's #1 plug look like? Can you post a picture?

Rick

I end up replacing the plugs since they were all looking VERY bad (black and covered in gas (thought it was oil at first)) so I bought a set of 6 new plugs (ACDelco ) and installed them. I can post the pic but I dont know which one of the 6 is #1 since they're all mixed now.
 
This may not be it but a bad MAF could make it run like crap too. Borrow a local one if you can and toss it in with new plugs and see how it does.
 
This may not be it but a bad MAF could make it run like crap too. Borrow a local one if you can and toss it in with new plugs and see how it does.

I do have an extra stock ACDelco MAF which infact I end up installing after car ran fine that very first day, I thought it was the MAF (which I bought used locally) so I replaced it back with mine but problem still there :confused:
 
Pull #1 plug. Lets see what the new plug looks like.

Rick

The car hasn't started since I installed new plugs, wouldnt it be clear? and speaking of plugs, I made a mistake by getting platinum plugs, as I saw it was posted those arent good for our turbo motors.
 
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