Fresh motor, day after, wont start. Oily plugs.

[8289ta]

Good to hear - also curious about the oil pressure.

 

[xspetsnazx]

So what's the oil pressure now?

55psi off the block...the cluster gauge still reading low, probably went bad, I'm going to look into it.

 

[ttaowner]

Great news !!!!!!

 

[TurboBuRick]

What do u mean? I thought it had spark? LOL!

 

[xspetsnazx]

What do u mean? I thought it had spark? LOL!

I thought the same at first, It did have spark on cyl #2 & #1 when I pulled the plugs and had em out while cranking the car. I dont know about the rest of them.

I took the car back to the mechanic, next day he said my ignition control module went bad, thats why my car wouldn't start. It was replaced and the car is running fine. I dont know what the heck it was but I am glad its running again. Hopefully nothing else fails anytime soon.

 

[Pronto]

Well if your oil pressure is good via the engine block, the sender might have gone bad. Good news on the oil and module though.

 

[Razor]

Wow! 7K! and the thing don't run. Un frickin real!

Do you have a scantool?

Rick

Rick,
If you've been around these cars long enough.. you know stuff happens to 20+ year old parts. Doesnt matter if it was 1K or 15K... its an old car with a bunch of old parts. Not cool to jump the gun and get someone fired up over spending a bunch of money at a shop.
Would be different if he spent 7k and driving car home breaks the crank, or spins some bearings, or.. and windows the block.. but a "No Start" is regular BS with a 20+ year old car. Bad MAF, Bad Ignition module, bad crank sensor, bad ecm, bad chip, bad cam sensor, blown fuses, etc.. stuff that doesnt get touched when a motor is pulled and will cuase no start.
Glad the problem was resolved and car is back together again.

 

[Razor]

Well if your oil pressure is good via the engine block, the sender might have gone bad. Good news on the oil and module though.

Common on the TTA. The senders go bad. They will actually leak oil from the electrical connector. What sucks is the new ones read low and look different. The OEM ones are metallic bodies, the replacements are plastic bodies. Only way to get a metallic body is from a junk yard and hope its good.

 

[Razor]

I thought the same at first, It did have spark on cyl #2 & #1 when I pulled the plugs and had em out while cranking the car. I dont know about the rest of them.

I took the car back to the mechanic, next day he said my ignition control module went bad, thats why my car wouldn't start. It was replaced and the car is running fine. I dont know what the heck it was but I am glad its running again. Hopefully nothing else fails anytime soon.

Keep an eye on the oil and its condition. New motor needs to get a few oil changes in pretty quick. The first one probably has been done at the shop. If the oil did get washed down=smells like fuel.. get new oil in it. Regular oil no synthetic since you have a flat tappet cam. Running a little thicker oil should increase pressure. Like a 20w50.
Dont panic.. you need to put some miles on the car and shake out the bugs. This is all normal stuff.. its like open heart surgery.. once the bugs are shaken out.. the car will be fine. If the engine shop did their job correctly.
Try a new oil pressure sender. They are available through AC Delco.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Rick,
If you've been around these cars long enough.. you know stuff happens to 20+ year old parts. Doesnt matter if it was 1K or 15K... its an old car with a bunch of old parts. Not cool to jump the gun and get someone fired up over spending a bunch of money at a shop.
Would be different if he spent 7k and driving car home breaks the crank, or spins some bearings, or.. and windows the block.. but a "No Start" is regular BS with a 20+ year old car. Bad MAF, Bad Ignition module, bad crank sensor, bad ecm, bad chip, bad cam sensor, blown fuses, etc.. stuff that doesnt get touched when a motor is pulled and will cuase no start.
Glad the problem was resolved and car is back together again.

Roger that Julio. I know how it goes all too well. I take my customers cars for several rides before giving them back. There is only one time I gave a car back not running right. The guy did not want to spend the money.

Rick

 

[xspetsnazx]

Rick,
If you've been around these cars long enough.. you know stuff happens to 20+ year old parts. Doesnt matter if it was 1K or 15K... its an old car with a bunch of old parts. Not cool to jump the gun and get someone fired up over spending a bunch of money at a shop.
Would be different if he spent 7k and driving car home breaks the crank, or spins some bearings, or.. and windows the block.. but a "No Start" is regular BS with a 20+ year old car. Bad MAF, Bad Ignition module, bad crank sensor, bad ecm, bad chip, bad cam sensor, blown fuses, etc.. stuff that doesnt get touched when a motor is pulled and will cuase no start.
Glad the problem was resolved and car is back together again.

I completely agree, Its just ironic how things all of a sudden started to go bad after the final rebuild. My oil pressure read really low and that's AFTER I have already replaced the oil pressure sender with a new ACDelco one from local auto parts 2 weeks prior to that, at THAT time it had a great pressure. Another words, after accidently breaking the oil pressure sender (while taking out dead on stock oil filter) I have replaced it with the 'plastic' ACDelco version o.p.s and it had a great oil pressure on the stock cluster gauge like it always had. Its only after the second time when the car went back to the shop (with discovered cylinder crack) and was completely rebuild (with a new block) the oil at the cluster gauge started to read low. I went ahead and bought ANOTHER o.p.s. to see if it'll solve the problem but it didn't. So i'll just run the mechanical gauge from the block to the window pillar.

The boost gauge was way too sensitive and would go up to MAX lb (into red line) on the cluster, without even boosting, at the slight acceleration. It has not done it before the rebuild neither. However, I hope that problem is resolved after I discovered (while checking for any split wires/loose vacuum hoses, when the car wouldn't start already) the vacuum hose to the turbo was fitting loose (for some reason) so I strapped it down. Don't know yet if it fixed that problem, until I get the car back.

And voltage gauge is reading low as well, yet alternator showed around 13. The cause of this might be because my head lamps are out of the car and the connectors are unplugged.

Then on top of all that, it wouldn't start...I am not even going to mention that its smoking like a chimney from the exhaust (not the motor) seems like, when I blew the motor, oil end up traveling through the exhaust all the way to the back and now it has to burn off. What I dont understand is, why didnt it burn this oil off the first time the car was put together and ran for few days (thats even before the cracked cylinder was discovered) ? exhaust got hot enough the same...so I dont know, I'll deal with that later, must do one thing at the time.

But like you said "its regular BS, and because of the car's age, things WILL go out sooner or later" In my case, few things end up showing trouble at the same time, weirdly after the motor rebuilt.

I don't blame the mechanic that did the work for any of this happening ( in fact, I appreciate all the hard work he put up with, and his patience with this car of mine), but if anyone was in my shoes and knew the condition of their car before it was taken to the shop and upon return things that worked all of a sudden DONT (and I mean things that normally go bad with time) you'd feel the frustration that I'm going through. Especially after bad experiences I've had from the day my car stopped running right (which was about 2 yrs ago).. Knowing THEN, that i would spend that much $ to get it back running where it is now, it wouldnt have happened and I would have taken a different route, but it is what it is. So I don't blame anyone but myself, in all of this including the choices I've made. I just have a ****** luck with this ride.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

glad u got it running these are very tempemental beast

 

[xspetsnazx]

Good to hear - also curious about the oil pressure.

Car has been running ok so far, yesterday I noticed the oil pressure at the cluster gauge showing accurate pressure near 65 cold all of a sudden...then after driving for about 30minutes it started to read low again at the cluster gauge. During those 30minutes from start up, the voltage gauge also showed correct voltage, then it also started to show low.

I guess now I'm having the electrical issue somewhere. This just doesn't end

 

[TurboBuRick]

Oil pressure will be significantly different between a hot and cold motor. Specially at idle.

Do you have a volt meter? Test voltage output on the back of the alternator.

RL

 

[xspetsnazx]

Oil pressure will be significantly different between a hot and cold motor. Specially at idle.

Do you have a volt meter? Test voltage output on the back of the alternator.

RL

Yes, oil pressure will lower ones the oil is warmed up but in my case I am comparing to how it USED TO BE to how it is NOW. My oil pressure used to not go far below 40 on the cluster gauge even after hours of driving, now its near 0 (after 20 minutes of driving) . That's why I am concerned, even now the mechanical gauge off the motor shows 20-25 while hot (30 minutes of driving, which some may say its a good pressure). It's so weird how I used to run synthetic 10W-30 and my oil pressure was great, now (after motor rebuild) I am running 20W-50 VR1 (non synthetic) and it shows low. Shouldn't it be opposite ...

I have volt meter and have checked the voltage off the alternator which shows 13.8 , scan master shows 13.2 (sometimes 12.5 I saw on there at some point)

 

[xspetsnazx]

Also, I dont know if this has anything to do with any of few problems I am having but I tapped into MAP green wire (B) ign. ON motor not running and it shows 2.36 not 1.6 as it should. Is the MAP bad?

 

[89TTA500]

Also, I dont know if this has anything to do with any of few problems I am having but I tapped into MAP green wire (B) ign. ON motor not running and it shows 2.36 not 1.6 as it should. Is the MAP bad?

Don't know if you found the problem yet but it may be a ground issue. I would check the battery ground cable and grounds at the back of the engine. As far as the MAP sensor goes, on the TTA it is only used for the boost gauge. The voltage will change based on air pressure but will not cause a driveability issue.

 

[xspetsnazx]

Don't know if you found the problem yet but it may be a ground issue. I would check the battery ground cable and grounds at the back of the engine. As far as the MAP sensor goes, on the TTA it is only used for the boost gauge. The voltage will change based on air pressure but will not cause a driveability issue.

Not yet, the car is still in the shop, waiting on the machine shop to finish the head. I seem to have few problems at ones, It does seem like there is a ground issue even though I checked the ground everywhere I could and found nothing wrong. Also used the jumping cables to see if there is a ground issue between the block and the chassis and it turned out to be ok. Still need to check ground between chassis and the dash since it seems that's where the issue is. I bought a new MAP just to make sure (since my turbo gauge reads wrong) but I think it just has to do with the ground.
Thanks,
Alex

 

[2QUICK2B6]

Not yet, the car is still in the shop, waiting on the machine shop to finish the head. I seem to have few problems at ones, It does seem like there is a ground issue even though I checked the ground everywhere I could and found nothing wrong. Also used the jumping cables to see if there is a ground issue between the block and the chassis and it turned out to be ok. Still need to check ground between chassis and the dash since it seems that's where the issue is. I bought a new MAP just to make sure (since my turbo gauge reads wrong) but I think it just has to do with the ground.
Thanks,
Alex

I was recomended to run rottella straight 30 to break in new buick engines by jack merkel. He opened up some of the main oil holes an did some work on the oil system it pegs out on cold start then drops to 50 hot

 

[Razor]

Map sensor swapped for a 2 bar?
3 bar reads 1.6
2 bar reads 2.3
Key on engine off
That will affect only the factory boost gauge and alcohol system if used