G Body Parts Brake Pedal Conversion Kit

Why not just buy the entire brake pedal?
Bet Brian has em availalble, I know Kirbans offers em too.
Post on the board, you might find a member that has one that will let it go cheap.
This will be a direct bolt on, no fussing with drilling and relocating the pin like the kit does.
 
that pin is for making a vacuum pedal able to work a PM /hydroboost,
the vac pedal pin is thinner
 
I just drilled my pedal and put in the correct size grade 8 bolt with a shoulder. I hated the vacuum so I’m back to using the original pin with my hydro boost.
 
that pin is for making a vacuum pedal able to work a PM /hydroboost,
the vac pedal pin is thinner

That’s what I’m doing going from vac to hydroboost. Anyway just seeing if anyone has used it before, I have another pedal lined up but looking into all options.
 
kirban 2 cents worth

not only is the pin a different diameter but it is located in a slightly different spot on the pedal in order to make the switch from the powermaster to the vacuum format. G bodys kit gives you that option problem is people that have those pedals example on ebay etc know the value of that pedal and can ask $50 to $75 each as the turbo car is the only reason for the demand. no pedal I know of simply fails so our cars is the reason for the demand,

having removed some from junkers in junk yards at my age (71) it is no picnic but I have done many of them over the years always a plus when someone else has removed the column beforehand.

in the numbers game its about 50/50 rebuilt pm units we sell versus vacuum conversions as it appears most people not only go for speed but stopping seems to garner a lot of attention as well.

as far as removal and install of the pedal goes I suggest removing your seat to do the install very simple procedure 4 bolts might even find a few coins under the seat....

denniskirban@yahoo.com
 
Looks like someone copied my idea with the second pin for the pedal. I've been doing that for many years now.


What's odd is that pin looks odd. From looking at it, it appears you have to drill a clearance hole that gets welded on the backside. So basically you're using nothing but a surface (damn near tack) weld on the end to hold the load on the other end.

With mine, the pin slides through the pedal from the backside (giggidy) with a light press fit, that way the pin takes the load of the pin.
 
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