Gen7 DFI, LT1 Help Please

[Sean94Z]

Hey Guys.. I've been searching around the net looking for a solution to my problem. So few people in the LT1 world run DFI, I figured I would shoot over here and ask for some advice.

Just got my car running, 355, ATI D1 Supercharger, 72# Injectors, Plugs gapped at .35, small cam, nothing crazy.

Have the GEN7 running in batch fire mode. I have an Innovate WB02 sensor hooked up to the DFI. At idle, the car is popping through the intake unless I give it a ton of fuel in the VE tables. My ve tables right now are showing .59 to .75 at the idle level just to keep the car from popping. THe WB02 shows it is idling around 14.0 AFR. When it pops. the WB jumps to rich, like 10-11:1 ..

Crusing around, it pops almost constantly and is showing lean, 19:1, 20:1, etc... But, I am dumping so much fuel in via the VE tables, that I have them max at 1.25 in certain places and I haven't even gotten into boost yet. I tried pulling them back and the car ran horribly. Sputtering, stalling, etc.

I turned off closed loop correction, but when it was on, it was dumping a ton of fuel in, adding +20%. I can't figure out why it thinks it is so lean with all that fuel going in.

Please help!

 

[norbs]

Few things is the software version 4.0 or higher? Is the closed loop set to genereic 0-5,? is the lm-1 set to 1/12th second output?, is the lm-1 set up to read 0v=10:1, 5v=20:1 a/f


Secondly do you have about 25-28 degrees total timig at idle, and have you verified with the timing light that timing on the map is the same as the light?
WHen you lock the tiiming setting on the dfi?

Is the correct map sensor setting used?, is the fuel injector size set correctly? fuel pressure ok?Check all the parameter carefully. Let us know you progress ..


You should not have to go to 1.25 on the map, there is a huge mistmatch somewhere.

 

[ijames]

And, you really, really cannot trust any O2 sensor, nb or wb, when the engine is misfiring. When you say it is frequently popping during cruise but showing lean, I wouldn't believe that lean reading - look at the plugs to see how sooty black they are. Check the connections to your map sensor for leaks, too.

 

[Sean94Z]

Thanks for the tips so far.
I had my WBO2 plugged into the passenger side of my y-pipe, I Moved it to the driver side and it was running pig rich, 10:1. So, I figured I had a cylinder not firing on the passenger side. I pulled my plugs and found one of my cylinders was not firing and traced it back to a bad fuel injector pig-tail. I should have a new one tomorrow.

I guess it is reading lean because one of the cylinders is just pushing air back out, leaning out the readings.

I'll let you know how it turns out after I get it plugged back in.

But to answer some of the questions, no I am not running V4.0, but I have scaled the LM1 to be close to correct.

I am running 26 degrees of timing at idle.

The LT1 does not have any timing marks or a pointer on the balancer, so, I can't check timing.

The MAP is set correctly, so are the injector size and fuel pressure size.

 

[norbs]

I am sure it will be ok, might be a good time to change the oil also, since it probably full of fuel. :frown:

 

[Sean94Z]

Yea, good idea to change the oil.

I got the pigtail today and put it on, but didn't have a chance to start the car before my kid went to bed. (The car's a bit too loud to have running in the driveway) .. I'll try tomorrow and let you know what it looks like.

I meant to ask in the previous post, what did you mean to set the LM1 to 1/12th second output. I don't remember seeing that option anywhere.

 

[norbs]

Its in the lm-programmer software, the lm-1 output is way to fast for the dfi, you need to slow it down a bit. I will have more details on how you should set this up tomoorrow.

 

[norbs]

Just to add to this, you should set up the voltages in the lm-1 programmer software as follows, on warmup sensor voltage to 2.00 volts(14.0 a/f) is a good starting point, and uncheck the high impedance. Also on "error conditon i would set it to .75 volts (11.5 a/f) and uncheck the high impedance box. This way on warmup it does not add a bunch of fuel and if the sensor craps on a wide open run it does not pull a bunch of fuel out.


Here is the voltage chart so you can see what is going on.


http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=498&d=1134520888

 

[ttpower]

from turbomustangs..

I agree with the warmup/error programming as it is a great saftey feature.. This is what Ive been using with great success so far..

here is what the accel dfi gen 7 (non version4) requires for input on UEGO
1.0 10.08
1.5 10.63
2.0 11.29
2.5 12.04
3.0 12.78
3.5 13.64
4.0 14.67
4.5 16.82
5.0 19.18

Here is what I used from another tm member..
For the LM1 output, set 1V=9.0AFR and 5V=16.6AFR, 4V-14.67.

And this is how it matches up with the dfi..
LM1 DFI
10.0 10.65
10.5 11.02
11.0 11.35
11.25 11.5
11.5 11.7
11.75 11.9
12.0 12.05
12.5 12.5
13.0 13.0
13.5 13.5
14.0 14.1
14.5 14.5
14.7 14.7
15.0 15.2
15.25 15.7
15.5 16.3
15.75 16.8
16.0 17.6
16.5 17.6
17.0 off scale

Remember, this table is for the regular linear input of the gen7 BEFORE they came out with the update that fixed boost builder and generic UEGO(among other things).

 

[norbs]

Looks like it would work also. However it would be better to get all the nice features working with the upgrade.