You can try turning on 2 psi sooner,that wont change overall volume,just sooner so you see higher pressures earlier.then you can increase initial that will change volume into the motor so there is more overall.you can also try increasing gas in the tt chip and reduce timing.eliminating wheelspin so it doesn't throw things off should be a goal as wellMmmmmm love how threads squirrel. I don't care about the alky plate thank you for your help spending my money.
I'll play around and post findings.
Going back to the track!
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I don’t see how transitional knock can be real. If it knocks during transition, it’s really going to knock when boost is full on. I’m betting it’s false knock. A log would be nice.
vacuum 6
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Already done just need to test. Thanks.
vacuum 6
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A log would be nice. What I did see/hear was the audio and knock gauge go crazy but on the Scan Master G recall function displayed 1.5°.
If the knock is false how can one determine?
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With my aggressive trans i get a few degrees on the 1-2 shift wot ,its really not that big of a deal. if you get kr at the top of 3rd id start to be concerned
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Usually see that on the 2-3 shift.
When I hit recall and see knock, I then press both buttons to see what mph it happened at. The 2-3 shift is usually between 60-70.
As a rule of thumb, any knock below the 2-3 shift of right at the 2-3 shift is false.
The big load comes in third gear. If it’s going to knock, that’s where you will see it. When you recall the scanmaster and it shows several degrees retard and the mph is 80 or higher, then you need to get concerned.
Knock gauge and knock alarm will give more false readings.You will not find either one in my car. They are junk IMO
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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If you had a log, you could see at what exact point the knock starts and compare that to rpm and mph to see if the tires are spinning. I'm assuming that knock didn't happen at shift and happens early with initial spool up not after you are max boost. You say it doesn't knock with higher octane and if that is truly correct then it wouldn't have anything to do with the trans shifting or tire spin.
When you get a chance go for a test run.
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Agree but if it’s a octane issue it would knock bad in 3rd gear.
vacuum 6
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I'm assuming that knock didn't happen at shift and happens early with initial spool up not after you are max boost. Correct.
You say it doesn't knock with higher octane Correct and if that is truly correct then it wouldn't have anything to do with the trans shifting or tire spin.
When you get a chance go for a test run. That's the plan. I was also thinking adding octane with E85 and add fuel.
You say it doesn't knock with higher octane Correct and if that is truly correct then it wouldn't have anything to do with the trans shifting or tire spin.
When you get a chance go for a test run. That's the plan. I was also thinking adding octane with E85 and add fuel.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Don't do too many things at once. Try without the added octane. If it knocks just get out of it.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Bingo!
vacuum 6
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Yup. With knock always get out of it.
In my nt car there is 0 knock recorded regardless of a hard shift or things moving around,the cylinder pressure coming on fast with not enough octane is an issue and needs to be tuned around not dismissed.you need to know if its from cylinder pressure or wheelspin
Dont do that unless you set your setup up for that,just bring in the alky sooner or add more
vacuum 6
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Yes got it on both.
Currently I'm adding more alky with a higher initial at 12 o'clock. The engine didn't the factory 11:30 setting. I believe with the gain knob at 8 and press the test button the voltage accross the pump should read 4 volts. Can anyone confirm this?
No,no,no,0 knock should be recorded.
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There are plenty cars that pick up false knock.
And again, if there is not enough octane, it would knock MORE at full boost in 3rd.
Transitional knock is false. It’s picking up something else.
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Do a third gear pull without any shifts. Put the shifter in regular Drive.
Get the speed up to 45 mph and lay into it. If it shifts down, abort and try again starting with a little higher speed.
If you can get a clean 3rd gear pull with no knock, any knock in lower gears is false. Transition or otherwise.
Knock gauges and alarms can give false knock readings. Nothing should be tapped onto the knock circuit IMO.
Get the speed up to 45 mph and lay into it. If it shifts down, abort and try again starting with a little higher speed.
If you can get a clean 3rd gear pull with no knock, any knock in lower gears is false. Transition or otherwise.
Knock gauges and alarms can give false knock readings. Nothing should be tapped onto the knock circuit IMO.
transitional knock is a real thing,may not be in this case,but it can be real.
