You can type here any text you want

Granddaddy of no start issues? Experts please come inside...

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Wish it were that easy... :frown:
Swapped a perfectly good working ignition module and coil pack off another car. I've check plug wires ad nauseum... I'll check again.
 
Update

Ok, got home and checked a few things suggested.

1. Crank key way is good.
2. Plug wires are installed correctly and firmly
3. Injector harness Pnk/blk wire has 11.62v with Key on.

Turn key and engine fires with a vroom like it's going to start and does not start.
Seems more like timing. Just can't find what is causing the problem. It was good one day and bad the next.

Please keep the suggestions coming. I'm at my wit's end for today.
 
Well you changed ignition mod. plug wires & coil pack with a known good one; Check.
plugs are wet so you're getting fuel; check.
you checked for spark got it; check.

The only things I can think of If you don't have an alarm is:

A chip with the dis-able feature, which I think you said you don't but you better check

Hopefully you got the cam sensor back in spec and not 180* out or anything like that when you put the other one in.

timing like you said; timing chain, valve timing (dropped valve or lifter?). Might want to take a look under the valve covers for a peek.

leak down / compression test time.


Back to the crank sensor, I think you can check to see if your putting out an RPM signal on your dash or a tach to see if you have that; to rule out the crank sensor.
 
Chip is a recent (2-3 years old TT chip) No disable feature that I know of.

Cam sensor was right on the money but I'm going to pull it apart and check again.

T-chain is new.

I doubt it's a valve issue as the heads were recently redone so everything is new and tight. (I'll double check though)

I guess I'm going to have to do the leak down/compression test maybe this weekend.

I need to figure out how to test for RPM signal -I think I read it somewhere here in the last week or so... Crank sensor was replaced and properly spaced so I doubt it will be the problem but I'll check it again...

At least with all this on and off of parts, I think I can do most of it in a few minutes... ;)
 
The fuel pump comes to mind. Even though the plugs are wet and it is priming maybe it isn't staying on or building enough psi/volume, i.e. weak pump.
 
Steve: What exactly is "clear flood mode" and how do I do it?

olds443: Fuel pump shows 40 psi at rail when I turn the key and holds 20+ for several minutes after key is off...

TurboBuRick: When you say "bump" the cam sensor; what exactly is meant by this? Do I reset, button everything up and then turn a little at a time hoping for a start OR do I simply loosen the sensor (as it currently sits) and bump it up counterclockwise in small increments to see if I get a start? (I want to make sure I do it properly)

Thanks again to everyone who is chiming in... I'm getting ready to get out of Buicks and try something simpler like quantum mechanics.:p
 
Yep, loosen the hold down on the cam sensor and give it a little turn. You'll know if your going the right way when you try and start.
 
"
olds443: Fuel pump shows 40 psi at rail when I turn the key and holds 20+ for several minutes after key is off..."

As I mentioned in my previous post, CHECK the pump action when cranking the engine, NOT just to see if it does the prime cycle, w/ KOEO. The prime cycle can/will put enough fuel to the injs to show as wet plugs.
 
TurboBuRick: Ok, I understand. I will try that. (maybe I'll try the fuel stuff first as it seems easier- that cam sensor is a PITA to get to with all the wires in the way)

Chuck Leeper: So, voltmeter to fuel pump when cranking? OR is there another way to test? (I hear the pump prime every time I turn the key but it does not make any noise that I can hear when I am cranking or while the car is running)

Just a Six??: Hotwire is installed already... I will double check my fuse to make sure it's ok... (Haven't checked that one...) (I kinda hope that's it...- I'll feel stupid but at least I'll be back in action.)
 
Since you stated you have wet plugs good spark try cranking the car "in clear flood" mode; crank the car with the gas pedal firmly planted to the floor the computer will halt injector firing.
 
Good News and Bad News

Here's what I've tried:

Just a Six?? : Checked hotwire and fuse is good

Chuck Leeper: When I cranked engine I made a conscious effort to listen and watched my FP gauge off the rail... (cranked up the fuel to 50lbs)- Constant pressure while cranking and it did make noise like it was working... Even after a few minutes when I had stopped cranking pressure stayed around 25lbs at the rail.

87gta-turbo: I tried the "clear flood" and the car started!:p:p:p Then it died. (It ran literally for about 3-4 seconds and died). I think you're on to something but I'm not sure what.....

I did not fool with the cam sensor since I think we're on to something with what Steve mentioned...
 
Dumping Fuel? AS in too much fuel? I was having this issue before I added the FP gauge but it was originally closer to stock 25-30lbs; I had cranked it up to 40 for testing and just turned it up again to 50lbs... Not sure if this is part of the issue or not...

What sort of remedy am I looking at?
 
Ok I understand now... The question is how do I keep it from giving me too much fuel? It never did this before and if I'm not mistaken I think I still have the OE fuel pump... It's been working 100% all this time and then out of the blue it gives me too much fuel? Not sure I understand how this happens. Any ideas?
 
You need a couple of things to get a car started, fuel, air, spark, compression and TIMING. You may have a bad cam sensor. Do you have scanmaster readings? I know I say it alot, but coolant temp sensors can cause problems it they are reading too high with key on engine off.
 
Back
Top