Hard brake pedal when hit fast

[1980 Buick]

PERFECT ! (Thank-you AGAIN !!!)

 

[Joeld]

1980, go to www.tomsttype.com and click the vacuum brake link on the left. It gives you a walkthrough, complete with pics and a parts lust.

Nice link, I had not seen this one. I did not remove my accumulator ball. I removed the nuts from the inside of car and pulled the PM right out.
Nice step by step post.
I did forget to mention the discharge of the accumulator ball.
Joel

 

[TommyV8]

FYI, the best prices for the booster and master cylinder that I've found so far have been on rockauto.com.

 

[Joeld]

I was able to do mine for about $200 all in inluding the new vacuum black for the top of hte intake.
Joel

 

[1980 Buick]

That's UNREAL !! 200 bucks ?

 

[Joeld]

master and booster on sale at $132 plus $15 core charge, pedal at junk yard $25, vacuum block at $50 or so. Then a few dollars in fuel line. I think other that brake fluid that I had already, that was about it.
Joel

 

[TommyV8]

Can someone post up a complete list of cars with the correct brake pedal for a vacuum swap? I thought I saw one sonewhere but I don't remember where. I'm going to try to get to a junkyard this weekend.

 

[Joeld]

Look up a few posts, I posted the g-body line up. should be any g-body with vacuum brakes unless I'm missing something, which is always possible.
good luck,
Joel

 

[1980 Buick]

I'm torn ... everything's working great ! (now) *I guess it's a "pay me now pay me later" thing ? Next time I'm at the yard I'll probably get the stuff ... (35.00 for a used booster / Master Cyl. ) I'll likely go with new. ... and the pedal.

 

[TommyV8]

Look up a few posts, I posted the g-body line up. should be any g-body with vacuum brakes unless I'm missing something, which is always possible.
good luck,
Joel

Whoops, guess I should have just re-read this thread. Thanks Joel!
FWIW I got the remanufactured booster and master online for about $116 shipped, and I shouldn't have to spend a whole lot more to complete the parts list. If I had done more research when my accumulator bowl crapped out then I would have just done the conversion right then, instead of spending another dime on the Powerdisaster. I just assumed that it would be kind of expensive and difficult.

 

[Joeld]

It is a tough decision, I really wanted to keep my car original and I've kept every single bit and piece I've replaced, even the original fuel pump and air filter for that matter. but I do like the piece of mind of the vacuum system gives me, but I can always go back to the powermaster if I want to. all I need is an accumulator ball and I'd be good to go.
Good luck,
Joel

 

[Dennis Kirban]

The accumulator is very similar to the water holding tank of a typical home with well water. The tank and accumulator are divided into two halves inside by a rubber bladder. On one side of the bladder is the water or brake fluid. On the other side is pressurized air for the well tank and nitrogen for the accumulator. The reason for a gas on one side is because gasses can be compressed. Liquids can not be compressed. Because the gas is on the other side of the bladder it's pressure rises as more fluid enters the other half. As we use some of the water or brake fluid,the pressurized gas continues to move the water or brake fluid. If we did not have a gas that could be compressed,the hydraulic pressure would rise instantly as the pump came on and it would fall instantly as the fluid was used. In both cases the pumps would turn off and on rapidly and continually. In the case of the well,you would add air pressure to the air side of the tank,through the schrader valve if you noticed your well pump doing this. For the Powermaster,our only choice is to buy a new accumulator because they don't come with a schrader valve to refill the gas side after the gas leaks out.

Just saw this thread as many of you know we offer 3 solutions, rebuilt powermaster with limited lifetime warranty, rebuilt vacuum set up or a new vacuum set up. Not 100% sure on the technology on the brake bowl except its true those bowls can't be rebuilt...even Richard Clark agrees with that. GM had the original version which was all black second design had the yellow wording and the nut was on the exterior. The cardone brake bowl is slightly larger and has been 100% bullet proof as far has not having any failures to date. I should know we sell alot of them. Sometimes they can cure the problem long as you flush your brake fluid every 1-2 years and check your brake propotioning valve GM used 3 suppliers only one supplier made them in brass which don't rust.

Again not an expert far from it but we do offer solutions and we were very instrumental in getting Cardone to invest in making the brake bowl and fortunate enough they did and also fortunate enough they will still rebuild them for us as we supply almost all the other turbo vendors as well.

Been nice had Buick told owners to flush the brake fluid every year or so as it would have cut down on the issues.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

 

[1980 Buick]

Hi Dennis !! *I have that "yellow sticker" (on my accumulator vial) ! My only issue's the switch that's "weeping" the oil (out the pins) ... (I have the blk. one).
I saw no 87-C-13 Label, and long story short, the "campaign" was NOT performed one this unit.

Knowing your opinion is important ... "what would / & have YOU done ? abandon P/M and do Vacuum ?

Thanks for weighing in on this,
with ALL my best !

 

[Joeld]

Nice that the stock option is out there. I get the value in that.
Joel

 

[Dennis Kirban]

Hi Dennis !! *I have that "yellow sticker" (on my accumulator vial) ! My only issue's the switch that's "weeping" the oil (out the pins) ... (I have the blk. one).
I saw no 87-C-13 Label, and long story short, the "campaign" was NOT performed one this unit.

Knowing your opinion is important ... "what would / & have YOU done ? abandon P/M and do Vacuum ?

Thanks for weighing in on this,
with ALL my best !

The black brake switch was the initial recall..its a safety recall and your local GM dealer should able to run your VIN number and if it comes up never done they should give you a new grey GE brake switch free....since its a safety recall.... again no guarantee because of the age now of our cars they may not have records to verify your VIN one way or the other

point being do not drive your car until you change to the grey brake switch that black switch can sprout fluid rapidly at any point in time not just seep....end result is no brakes.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

the yellow wording is the second design brake bowl from GM.

 

[TommyV8]

Hey Dennis, I got my Cardone replacement bowl from you and it did indeed solve my brake issue at the time. But I guess that by then the pump motor had been overworked for too long and, well, it didn't take long to experience the result of that. Anyway, you do buy Powermaster cores, right? Do you offer cash or just credit toward future purchases? I'll have a core available soon.

 

[1980 Buick]

Holy Crap ! WELL: "It happened". Yesterday I came to a stop and my brake pedal was as stiff as a board !
Happening unexpectedly, it was a game changer! The funny part is that it happened once, and not again.

The brakes are fine, (now) ... and the fluids as clear / clean as it can be ! "Scared" ? HELL YES ! *< now I understand >
This has NEVER happened before EVER.

Sooooo ... now what? "It's very unsettling at best" ... but I think I'm gonna follow you guys and "convert over". Anybody have
a "kit" at a good deal out here ? ("I had ta ask") * I already have the Vacuum system "new" break pedal.

Would it happen again ? (It works perfectly NOW.)

THAT"S WHAT BOTHERS ME.

 

[Tony N]

It is going going to keep happening because its starting to fail for good. Take it from me I went through exactly what your going through. I replaced everything on the powermaster: switch, ball and pump and it ended up being the cylinder itself. Converted over to vaccum boost. Parts came to $265.00 and installed myself in 4 1/2 hours direct bolt on. Had the shop bleed the brakes no worries. Save yourself the headaches and convert to the vaccum boost they work just as good as the powermaster just as good no worries. Its a ver scary feeling when that pedal sinks to the floor and you have no breaks dont chance it.

 

[1980 Buick]

It is going going to keep happening because its starting to fail for good. Take it from me I went through exactly what your going through. I replaced everything on the powermaster: switch, ball and pump and it ended up being the cylinder itself. Converted over to vaccum boost. Parts came to $265.00 and installed myself in 4 1/2 hours direct bolt on. Had the shop bleed the brakes no worries. Save yourself the headaches and convert to the vaccum boost they work just as good as the powermaster just as good no worries. Its a ver scary feeling when that pedal sinks to the floor and you have no breaks dont chance it.

I think that's what I'm gonna do Tony. Man that sucks ! "all that $ and effort toward trying to keep things original, (you).
I assume that was that (after vacuum "update") ?

 

[Tony N]

Yep, important thing is the brake pedal from a monte ss or any gbody that had vaccum boost. Take the powermaster out with pedal bolts and put it in box. If you get rid of the car the new owner can re-install it at there own risk. Even the re-builts are to fail quick so dont bother. Read the brakes and suspesion threads here, good luck.