head stud and gasket issue

[Jordan_J]

I bought my car from someone who already had it built and everything, however one of the head gaskets sprung a leak due to my ignorance and I am trying to get together everything to repair it. So I had a few questions.

First I noticed my car has studs, as it should since he modified it quite a bit, but is there a way to tell what brand of stud it is? I am hoping for ARP studs.

Secondly is it possible to do the gasket swap with the engine still in the car? Or will I need to pull it?

Thanks.

 

[mybuick]

on the top of the studs it will say arp on it.

if the heater box is still there you will have to pull the engine.

 

[johnplogii]

if the heater box is still there you will have to pull the engine.

Unless it it the drivers side, then it's no problem in the car. If it is the pass side and you have the newer studs with the allen heads, You can remove the studs and do it in the car.

 

[Just a Six??]

If you do it in car its 10 hours & a sore back but if you pull it its about an hour more without the sore back!

 

[Jordan_J]

If it is the pass side and you have the newer studs with the allen heads, You can remove the studs and do it in the car.

I have the newer allen headed studs. So what you're saying is that I would do is remove the studs from the head and block then move the head?

Thanks for the help guys! I do have ARP studs at least!

 

[johnplogii]

Yes, I have heard that you can remove the studs then the head. I have never done it myself as I have older studs with no allen heads.

 

[Pronto]

I've heard some old Pontiac guys that used studs talking and they would cut a slot in the stud so they could spin them out with the engine still in the car. The allen head makes sense.

 

[Robert Wilson]

If you do it in car its 10 hours & a sore back but if you pull it its about an hour more without the sore back!

I'm with you, I used to try to do this stuff over the fender but now I just go ahead and pull the engine and get it on a stand where its easy to work on.

 

[robztheman]

Glad to hear u have the newer studs. Just for the record u can remove the older studs by screwing or locking two nuts together. i did it.

 

[johnplogii]

You aren't going to double nut them with the heads on the motor.

 

["Turbo-T"]

if the heater box is still there you will have to pull the engine.

Even if it's a no a/c heater box?

 

[gnxtc2]

Instead of double nutting them, an ARP SBC PolyLoc works.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[Just a Six??]

on the top of the studs it will say arp on it.

if the heater box is still there you will have to pull the engine.

Even with non removeable studs (no allen key & no room to double nut) just take out the pass side bolt from motor mount & tilt the engine up with a jack & the head will clear heater box.
In your case I still say pull the motor because blown head gasket means milkshake in the oil & if you use antifreeze you need to check the bearings & its a lot easier on the stand.
Just remove needed lines, AC compressor. crossover & downpipe & yank all of it including turbo & alt. I do it with tranny on but thats your choice. It can be a PITA to line the motor & tranny correctly in the car.