Head studs

[Pop Chevy]

Can anyone tell me the length of the head studs for stage II alum heads. I got my Buick Power Source book but they are not listed.
Also looking for a nice set of valve pans. The ones I got with my engine are modified for top oilers. Do I need this?? Don't they oil through the lifter and pushrod??
Thanks for your help. Got a lot to learn. Hope to have this thing running next season.

 

[KendallF]

I don't know the lengths offhand, but they're still an ARP catalog item. You can order them through any major TR vendor or probably even Summit and the like. As far as valvecovers, do you mean they're plumbed for spring oilers? Lots of circle track guys did that to cool down the springs and avoid breakage.

You can oil up through the pushrods, or if you have the single shaft style T&Ds, you can oil through the back of the head up through the rocker shafts and down the pushrods. Depending on which you choose and what vintage block you have you'll have to either block the oil hole at the lifter galley or drill one. Was that confusing enough?

I have a spare pare of S2 valvecovers but they're plumbed for spring oilers as well.

 

[Pop Chevy]

Thanks Kendall, that was clear as mud!!! Just kidding.
I am working on an old ASA engine and I'm putting it in an Indy Lights car. The rocker shafts are multi piece. From what you said I guess I should stick with these. I assume the spray from the pans will lube the rockers also?
The guy I bought the engine from told me he would give me a set of studs if I got the sizes for him. He said he had boxes of all different sizes. He has more Stage II parts also. Heads, cranks, rods, etc. I got the only block he had and it is brand new!!!

 

[KendallF]

If you have the Jesel multiple shaft rockers, you'll need to oil up through the lifters. On-center motors didn't come drilled through to the lifter oil galley..they need to be drilled if you're going to oil up through the lifters. If your motor came complete with those rockers, it should already be set up. Won't hurt to run the spring oilers too, especially in your application (I'm well outside of my knowledge base here tho. )

 

[Pop Chevy]

Drilling up through to the lifters. Is that something I can do? When I said it was a brand new block, I meant it. There is no machining done to it other than what the factory did. the cyl. bores are rough and the lifter bores are rough(and and undersized). Can the lifter bores just be honed?

 

[KendallF]

You need to get the Power Source book. On the Stage II blocks, the lifter oil galley was moved so that it does not intersect the lifter bores. If you want to oil the lifters, you will need to drill a .150" hole through the front of the lifter bores (there is a little boss/indentation, do it there), through the back of the lifter bores, and into the oil galley. Then you'll need to tap and plug the hole you made in the front of the lifter bore; you can use 1/4 inch 10-24 Allen head set screws.

As far as the dry sump hardware, I suggest you contact Ron Tarabori, PT&E, or Anderson; Ron and Anderson are posting in this forum now and I know Ron has dry sump setups, at least.

 

[EightSecV6]

I can handle the machining or supply whatever parts you may need(thanks Kendall)
Bill Anderson

 

[Ron Tarabori]

One suggestion before you go with studs. Make sure you have room to remove the heads with the motor in the car. I did this a few years ago and when I tried to take a head off to replace a burned piston discovered that the new chassis and the head studs didn't work well. I switched to bolts. A Indy light car sounds like it might be a little tight on room. For your Horsepower application bolts are no prolem and it might save you pulling the engine to replace a head gasket etc. Ron