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Hello - Newb looking for some advise

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jakerica

New Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
16
Sorry for long post. Newb looking for some advise and opinions on my current setup that I am trying to sort out.

Please let me preface that I am new to Turbo Buicks and I got my car with the current setup. I have not yet changed anything. I am wondering if I might have a turbo and converter that is a little too big for my goals. I am looking for a nice low 12 to high 11 second street car. Basically I’ll just be going to shows/cruise in and maybe hit the track once a year. My current setup:

Stock ‘87 LC2 (no porting, stock bottom end) with the following: Comp 212 flat cam with springs, RJC power plate for stock dog house, 65mm throttle body (saw were this is not required at this point), 60# Siemens injectors, FMIC, TT chip for 19psi 93 octane 60#, TE-62 turbo, Cooling Mist Alky system, 3” downpipe, Pypes cat-back, 9” PTC 3000 stall converter, 3.5” MAF with translator, Tin Man cold air, Scanmaster 2.1 (I plan on getting the Powerlogger & 2.2 upgrade).

I have verified that the converter is flashing around 3200 rpm with street tires. I am only able to build 1-2psi boost with foot braking. I do not yet have drag radials. Will I be able to build more boost with the DR’s? I have seen where you should see at least 5psi at launch.

The car is really lagging on the street. I have been chasing oil & power steering leaks like crazy and have been “gun shy” to push the car past 10psi boost. The street tires start to break loose at around 10psi.

My thoughts are to possibly go smaller on the turbo & stall to get better lower rpm response or will a set of ported heads provide better low end?

Thanks,

Jack
 
You can see my set up in my signature , I'm at bout 24 lbs of boost and where my car came alive is when I put a test pipe with a dump , spools really fast but to answer your ? I havent a clue on that but this is the site that will help you , Good Luck Keith
 
A couple things, a pre turbo exhaust leak is like a open waste gate and can make the car feel sluggish. A waste gate valve that is not sealed shut or not properly aligned can leak and also make the car feel sluggish.

What down pipe is on the car? Internal or external gate?

Rick
 
I do not know the maker of the downpipe. Just that is measures 3". I cannot hear any obvious exhaust leaks. I'll look into the wastegate. I would prefer to get an external wastegate setup. Looking at the GN1 downpipe but my car has been lowered, so that another area to address. The dp does have a cut out on it but it's facing down and yout can see whereit has been scrapped on bumps. Thanks for the ideas where to look.
 

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That's Terry's pipe.

External gate will just add confusion. Stick with the internal.

Remove the pipe from the turbo and look at the carbon print on the puck valve and turbine housing. The valve needs to cover the hole completely when the gate is closed. Otherwise it will leak boost and make for slow spooling.

Adjust the waste gate rod so you have to pull it about a 1/8" to put it on the arm.

Rick
 
Cool. So it's a Terry Houston pipe? Thank you very much for the tech. I was told that the cat was hollowed out. Would I still benefit from a test pipe with a cutout I can use? I am going to the Magna annual car show this month at Cecil. Looking forward to hopefully being able to see how others have set their cars up.

Thanks again.
 
Yes. That is a Terry Houston.

A hollowed out cat is just as good as any test pipe. A dump might help at the track but wouldn't notice much difference on the street.

Rick
 
Sorry for long post. Newb looking for some advise and opinions on my current setup that I am trying to sort out.

Please let me preface that I am new to Turbo Buicks and I got my car with the current setup. I have not yet changed anything. I am wondering if I might have a turbo and converter that is a little too big for my goals. I am looking for a nice low 12 to high 11 second street car. Basically I’ll just be going to shows/cruise in and maybe hit the track once a year. My current setup:

Stock ‘87 LC2 (no porting, stock bottom end) with the following: Comp 212 flat cam with springs, RJC power plate for stock dog house, 65mm throttle body (saw were this is not required at this point), 60# Siemens injectors, FMIC, TT chip for 19psi 93 octane 60#, TE-62 turbo, Cooling Mist Alky system, 3” downpipe, Pypes cat-back, 9” PTC 3000 stall converter, 3.5” MAF with translator, Tin Man cold air, Scanmaster 2.1 (I plan on getting the Powerlogger & 2.2 upgrade).

I have verified that the converter is flashing around 3200 rpm with street tires. I am only able to build 1-2psi boost with foot braking. I do not yet have drag radials. Will I be able to build more boost with the DR’s? I have seen where you should see at least 5psi at launch.

The car is really lagging on the street. I have been chasing oil & power steering leaks like crazy and have been “gun shy” to push the car past 10psi boost. The street tires start to break loose at around 10psi.

My thoughts are to possibly go smaller on the turbo & stall to get better lower rpm response or will a set of ported heads provide better low end?

Thanks,

Jack


What you have parts wise is good for low 11's easy .. IMHO you'd be much happier with a 44 and a D5 with a GOOD tune on alky and 93 ...

that's a proven 11.50 setup ... Don't port the heads , don't touch the internals ..

get it in the hands of a good tuner / buick tuner and hi 11's is a slam dunk
 
Where are you located, or did I miss that?...................

A good start would be to replace all vacuum lines and zip tie the connections.
 
I am in Southeast PA. I am about 90 mins from Billy Anderson's. Will most likely see if I can bring it down to him. I have been working on the lines. Mine was converted over to 5/32 poly line (Vibrant) with push lock fittings in distribution block. I replaced the rubber boot/connectors on the ends as they were dry rot. Thanks for the tip.
 
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