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Help me into the low 12's!

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I thought the thread was how to get a more or less stock car to run low 12s. He doesn't have the mph nor the 60' to do it right now. I thought a good 60' was a part of the solution. My mistake... :confused: :confused: :confused:


:p BTW, very informative site. :)
 
Originally posted by ALBERTAN
I thought the thread was how to get a more or less stock car to run low 12s. He doesn't have the mph nor the 60' to do it right now. I thought a good 60' was a part of the solution.

Hehee. Yea, you're right on that. What I was reffering to was the suspension geometry changes that I did. This is not part of a low 12 second recipe so I didn't want to bog the thread down with something that isn't needed..;)

His mph isn't there and based on MY cars performance it's due to the slow 60's. If slow 60's, then try more boost on launches.

My car runs approx 107 when the 60's are 1.7's with et's around 12.3. But when I get a good launch the times drop to 12.10 @ 110+ w/ 1.60. BTW, I run 23psi of boost.

In a nut shell: New v-springs may help a lot since they seem to give out around 20psi, larger injectors (just in case the stockers aren't enough), raise boost to 23psi, launch it with as much boost as you can get and I would guess low 12's are there for the enjoyment..;)

ks
 
Cool. More good info. While my car mph'd 107+ on a 2.250 60', I think I'll still swap the valve springs this winter to be safe. Whatever I can do without pulling the heads, because I ran 26 psi without a hiccup last weekend. Of course when you are running 26 psi, 100%+ injector duty cycle and are a fuel pressure junkie, you'd better be watching the DirectScan all the way down the track. ;)

So to get back on track with the original poster's question, I think he needs to put some effort into getting the mph up also. True it will go up from a better 60'. But man its low right now. I think something else gives. I do think he's right on the money with the valve springs. That'll make the car pack up shop on the big end as someone mentioned. Good luck.
 
Originally posted by ALBERTAN
I ran 26 psi without a hiccup last weekend.

I don't know if you still have the stock Turbo on your car but if you do your wasting your time running anything over 22-23psi with that thing. Reason being is because anything above that is just hot air so you may be going slower running that much boost.
Again, I don't know if you have a stock turbo but it's just a "heads up".

BTW, I gained 40 HP alone (went 4 MPH faster with the same tune) by changing valve springs at 145K miles. It's a big difference.
 
Yeah I know Jorge. I had set it to 24 psi on the street the night before, but when I showed up at the track the following morning it was a tad cooler out. ;) As it was the first time out and I had monitored the boost quite closely the night before, I didn't even check it the first few rounds. Then I looked at it about mid track and saw it one mark past the number. I thought hmmm that's weird. I'm only getting 21 psi when I set it to 24. Looked back again and realized the number was 25 not 20! :eek: As I told my friends at the track, I would not have attempted 26 that soon but since I stumbled onto it and it worked I left it there for 8 runs through the weekend.

In defense of running a stock turbo that high, I had just ported the turbo, run a very efficient intake system, and mated it to a V4. I turned it down to 22 psi for the street (I run B33 all the time) and it doesn't pull as hard. So don't believe everything you read. ;) I'm quite sure 26 psi is out of the main efficiency island of the stocker though...
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm sure every one of them is valid. Especially the valve springs. Just one more question. How lean is too lean. I mean if my scanmaster is showing let's say 685 and I'm not getting any knock retard is it ok? Or does it mean my 02 sensor is probably crap? How lean does it have to be to cause real knock? As long as I'm not showing any knock I'm ok, right? Thanks for all of your help. R.B.
 
As long as you're not showing any knock you are ok.. But I also try to tune for MPH (=horse power) not O2's. My car ran better with 820 O2's which is regarded as kinda rich. As far as I'm concerned the O2's are a good # to view so you can see how rich it gets while adjusting fueling but it's the mph and ET's that count..;)

ks
 
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