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Help me locate key-on power wire

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Coelacanth

Active Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
522
So, I was looking for a way to install my 1320electronics Bluetooth adapter box so it would be almost fully concealed, and found the ideal location. After removing the ashtray cup (I don't smoke so it's not needed) and lifting up the shifter top bezel, I found that the unit would fit nice and snug in the niche to the left of the shifter assembly, and the thick ALDL cable tucked away inside the left side of the plastic console. Now all that's barely visible is the ALDL connector plug and a bit of cable before it routes under the console at the front.

What I want to do is get rid of the cigarette lighter power plug and splice directly into the ignition wire so when the key is "On", the ALDL adapter gets power. I've noticed when I plugged in the adapter to the cigarette lighter, it powers on regardless of whether the key is on or off, which will drain the battery, that's why I want it to only power on when the key is turned on.

What's the easiest way for me to locate the ignition-on wire? I believe I'm looking for a pink wire with a black trace, but where can I find it? There are links to wiring diagrams over at GNTType.org but the scans are so pixelated, they're practically useless.

Example:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/wiring_images/ignswitch_hlights_speedsnsr.jpg
 
I had a helluva time finding all the GN fusebox info, and none of it had everything all in one place. So after an hour of searching, I put together the following file, which has all the fuse box info you need in one single, clearly visible, easy-to-read image. Fuse locations & amps, and descriptions. This should be a sticky; the images at GNTType.org are terrible scans and barely decipherable. Hope this helps.

If I need to correct anything, please let me know.

GN_FuseBox.JPG
 
I had a helluva time finding all the GN fusebox info, and none of it had everything all in one place. So after an hour of searching, I put together the following file, which has all the fuse box info you need in one single, clearly visible, easy-to-read image. Fuse locations & amps, and descriptions. This should be a sticky; the images at GNTType.org are terrible scans and barely decipherable. Hope this helps.

If I need to correct anything, please let me know.

View attachment 287089
When I'm wiring in aftermarket gauges can I just use one of the unused ign ports for key on power and lps unused port for gauge lights?
 
When I'm wiring in aftermarket gauges can I just use one of the unused ign ports for key on power and lps unused port for gauge lights?
That's what I do. However, AIRC, if you don't power the ga lites from a point after the panel, they won't be on the dimmer circuit..
A 'best of my recollection" statement...But, I'm old, and have a right to be mistaken.:D
 
That's what I do. However, AIRC, if you don't power the ga lites from a point after the panel, they won't be on the dimmer circuit..
A 'best of my recollection" statement...But, I'm old, and have a right to be mistaken.:D
Thanks for the input
 
When I'm wiring in aftermarket gauges can I just use one of the unused ign ports for key on power and lps unused port for gauge lights?

One thing to keep in mind is that most of the less expensive gauges with LED lights won't dim as you'd expect if wired to the dimmer switch; LEDs don't function like ordinary bulbs and have a narrow voltage range. If the supplied voltage drops too low, they simply turn off. I'm using a mid-range Glowshift fuel pressure gauge that has a circuit inside, with optional wire lead, that dims the LED lights 30% when wired to the headlight switch or wire. I tapped this wire into the dimmer switch as it's much easier to get at, and because I always have the dimmer switch set to full on. The dimmer switch is powered when the headlights are turned on, and the gauge lighting works as expected, dimming 30% at night.

I have a less expensive boost gauge that doesn't have this optional reduced brightness circuit and therefore it's always lit up. I wired that into an unused IGN port.
 
One thing to keep in mind is that most of the less expensive gauges with LED lights won't dim as you'd expect if wired to the dimmer switch; LEDs don't function like ordinary bulbs and have a narrow voltage range. If the supplied voltage drops too low, they simply turn off. I'm using a mid-range Glowshift fuel pressure gauge that has a circuit inside, with optional wire lead, that dims the LED lights 30% when wired to the headlight switch or wire. I tapped this wire into the dimmer switch as it's much easier to get at, and because I always have the dimmer switch set to full on. The dimmer switch is powered when the headlights are turned on, and the gauge lighting works as expected, dimming 30% at night.

I have a less expensive boost gauge that doesn't have this optional reduced brightness circuit and therefore it's always lit up. I wired that into an unused IGN port.
Thanks for your information
 
The easiest thing to do since you want to mount it in the cig lighter slot is to pull power from the radio plug. It'll be the yellow wire. (on the black plug as there is also a yellow wire on a speaker plug)

If you need a 'constant hot' those are orange and you've already found one on the back of the lighter.

If your bluetoof thing had lights, that is the gray wire on the same power plug. Basically all the wiring you need already runs to that radio pod.
 
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