Help me out.....please

[Drew L]

CSII existing. I was given a SupertunerIII head, pair of subs and a Pioneer GM-2000 amp. Where do I start? Some of the wiring is obvious but I need some serious guidence or should I bring it to my local sound shop and have them install it? Thank you for any assisitance. Drew

 

[Drew L]

I can easily make pics available for aditional help. Drew

 

[Drew L]

All right, let me ask a diferent question...

On the back of the AMP there is only enough terminals for two speakers. How does that work when I'll have eight? Drew

 

[WakkoSS]

Installing your own system isn't that hard, but there are some little tricks that you need to know or your setup will suck. You're probably better off having it installed, but here's a few pointers anyway:

Your amp is a 2 channel amp if it only has terminals for two speakers. What's the part number for the amp? Should be GM-Xsomething. GM2000 isn't a good part number, from what I could find. With a two channel amp, it's possible to run multiple subs (in series or parallel) but not multiple in-car speakers (you'd lose balance and fade).

Depending on the power of the head unit, you run the 6 speakers inside the car on the head unit and then the subs on the amp. Run the CS2 speakers in series to the dash speakers (if you're not familiar with this, ask). You're probably better off with another amp (doesnt have to be high power) though. Either a 2 channel 100 watt amp to run the front speakers (and let the head unit run the 4x10s in the rear) or better yet a 4 channel to run all of the inside speakers.

If you decide to do the install yourself, let me know and I'll give you a few tricks and tips on that.

 

[Drew L]

thank you for the reply

This system came out of another TB but what I'm not sure of is if the car had the CSII. It does say GM-2000. My best indications is that this is over ten years old so that might explain why you couldn't find it. So.................I have spots for the eight speakers (4 pair) Two on the amp then the two on the back of the head unit. Run the subs and the rear speakers off the amp then the door and dash off the head?? Like I mentioned, much of the wiring is marked such as for the antenna and others for lighting/key on power. Explain the in series or parallel please. Pics to you? Drew

 

[WakkoSS]

Hmmm....could be old like you said. If it was in a good environment it shouldn't have any problems. The head unit only has outputs for two speakers? It "should" have two RCA type connecters coming out (one white, one red) and 8 total speaker wires coming out the back. 2 green, 2 white and I forget the other colors. Purple and grey I think. One of each color will have a black stripe for the negative. The amp should have two RCA inputs and then 4 total terminals, two positives and two negatives.

To run something in series, you'd hook up positive to negative. For example: If you have a flashlight bulb and want to get it to be the brightest possible, you'd hook the negative of the bulb to the negative terminal on a battery. you'd hook the positive of the battery to a negative on another battery and the positive of THAT battery to the positive of the bulb. If you were using two 1.5 volt batteries, now you'd have 3.0 volts since they're together. Clear as mud? Good.

Parallel means you'd hook all the positives up and all the negatives up together. You'd still only have 1.5v, but you'd double the capacity of the battery life.

In an amplifier situation, if you put all of the speakers in parallel, you'll draw more watts and amps from the electronics and possibly overload it. If you run the speakers in series, they won't be as loud, but it'll be safer for your setup.

Do you know if your amp is bridgable? That's a whole 'nother ball of wax...but a good one.

Someone else chime in here to explain things more clearly...my mind is split pea soup today.

 

[Drew L]

series vs parallel

I'm familiar with boat battery parallel and series applications so it seems speakers have the same option. Yes this amp is bridgeable and yes it has RCA plugs. WakkoSS, if I were to send you a few pics thru e-mail it sounds as though you tell me to put the round peg in the round hole. The head and the amp are complete with appropriate plugs and complete wiring. I'm not familiar with the proper hook up for my application. No sense doing it wrong obviously. Most, if not all , of the wiring is there. Thanks for any assistance. Drew

 

[WakkoSS]

Sure send me pictures of what you have. If you're gonna use the amp to run the subs, you might as well bridge it and make even MORE power. I work some nutty hours, but you're welcome to try to call me at 561-756-6633. I'm usually up till 2 or 3 and get up around noon.

 

[Drew L]

GREAT!

What I'll do is put this together on the table with what I have keeping in mind that there is the existing CSII speakers in place. I'll take some pics and send them on the way. Bridgeable? You can lay that one one as well!!! Thanks. Drew

 

[WakkoSS]

Your amp has two outputs for speakers. You can hook up the speakers normally (positive to positive, negative to negative, X2) and you'll have more adjustable sound (left/right) and whatever power the amp puts out per channel. However, if you hook the positive side of speaker 1 to terminal 1 in my picture, negative side of speaker 1 to the positive side of speaker 2, then the negative side of speaker 2 to terminal 4, you'll be bridged. Lowers the ohms rating and increases the draw. Back when in the 90s and 80s, guys would have "cheater" amps. Rated at 100 watts (50x2) but if you bridged it with 2 speakers it was 100 watts (technically 100x1, but since you're running two speakers, both speakers are getting 100 watts, so it's like 100x2). If you bridge it with more and continue to lower the ohms rating, you can soak some serious power. My old US Amps amplifier bridges to 300 watts and it's only a 50x2.

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