Ok so here goes.
Just put a newly built engine in my car. The car is meant for drag racing only. The instrument cluster is completely removed, and has a custom plate with gauges. Has a stock ecu with a turbo tweak chip. The engine wiring harness has been replaced by me about 7 or 8 years ago with a caspers harness. This is the sequence of events from first turn of the key.
Turned on key, powermaster came on and turned off like normal. Fuel pump came on and turned off like normal. Tried to start, seemed like there was no spark. Install test light between coil and spark plug wire, no spark.
Remove crank sensor, shows a little scuffing, install new crank sensor, no spark.
Remove cam sensor and reinstall to be sure installed correctly.
No spark. Remove ignition module, install another used module, has spark. Engine fires and tries to start but will not. TPS not reading properly. After a couple attempts to start, loses spark.
Order new ignition module, coil pack, and test light for injectors. Put test light on injector lead, and spark tester on coil pack and try old ignition module again. No spark, no injector pulse. Install new ignition module and coil pack. This is where I am at currently. Has injector pulse, but no spark. I also notice that now the power master is not coming on, and the fuel pump is not coming on.
So currently, I have injector pulse, but the fuel pump is not coming on, the power master is not coming on when you turn the key, and when cranking, there is no spark.
If I have injector pulse, I believe that would mean crank sensor, and cam sensor are good. I tried switching the prom chip, it makes no difference.
What commands the fuel pump to cycle and the power master to cycle when the ignition is turned on? The ecu, or does it not command them? If the ecu is screwed, does that kill spark? I ordered a new ecu, supposed to come tomorrow. If the calpack is screwed would that cause these issues? Can you get a new calpack anywhere?
Here are some of my readings with the car sitting as it is now, with the ignition switch in the on position:
Voltage from a ground source to ecu pin A6 checks normal voltage.
Voltage from a ground source to ecu pin B5 for crank sensor checks normal.
Voltage from ground source to ecu pin A11 for cam sensor checks normal.
Ground to A on cam sensor 11.0 volts
Ground to B on cam sensor 5.0 volts
Cam sensor A to C 11.6 volts
Lift up coil pack, yellow, green, blue all 11.6 volts. Three blues daisy chained all 11.6 volts.
Ground to crank sensor A 11.6 volts
Ground to crank sensor C 5.0 volts
Crank sensor A to B 11.6 volts
Crank sensor B to C 5.0 volts
P on module harness to ground 12 vdc
M on modules harness to ground 12 vdc
Question, is it possible that the fuseable links at the starter connection could be bad, or the starter itself is screwed up somehow? It is a new mini starter.
Thanks Tyler.
Just put a newly built engine in my car. The car is meant for drag racing only. The instrument cluster is completely removed, and has a custom plate with gauges. Has a stock ecu with a turbo tweak chip. The engine wiring harness has been replaced by me about 7 or 8 years ago with a caspers harness. This is the sequence of events from first turn of the key.
Turned on key, powermaster came on and turned off like normal. Fuel pump came on and turned off like normal. Tried to start, seemed like there was no spark. Install test light between coil and spark plug wire, no spark.
Remove crank sensor, shows a little scuffing, install new crank sensor, no spark.
Remove cam sensor and reinstall to be sure installed correctly.
No spark. Remove ignition module, install another used module, has spark. Engine fires and tries to start but will not. TPS not reading properly. After a couple attempts to start, loses spark.
Order new ignition module, coil pack, and test light for injectors. Put test light on injector lead, and spark tester on coil pack and try old ignition module again. No spark, no injector pulse. Install new ignition module and coil pack. This is where I am at currently. Has injector pulse, but no spark. I also notice that now the power master is not coming on, and the fuel pump is not coming on.
So currently, I have injector pulse, but the fuel pump is not coming on, the power master is not coming on when you turn the key, and when cranking, there is no spark.
If I have injector pulse, I believe that would mean crank sensor, and cam sensor are good. I tried switching the prom chip, it makes no difference.
What commands the fuel pump to cycle and the power master to cycle when the ignition is turned on? The ecu, or does it not command them? If the ecu is screwed, does that kill spark? I ordered a new ecu, supposed to come tomorrow. If the calpack is screwed would that cause these issues? Can you get a new calpack anywhere?
Here are some of my readings with the car sitting as it is now, with the ignition switch in the on position:
Voltage from a ground source to ecu pin A6 checks normal voltage.
Voltage from a ground source to ecu pin B5 for crank sensor checks normal.
Voltage from ground source to ecu pin A11 for cam sensor checks normal.
Ground to A on cam sensor 11.0 volts
Ground to B on cam sensor 5.0 volts
Cam sensor A to C 11.6 volts
Lift up coil pack, yellow, green, blue all 11.6 volts. Three blues daisy chained all 11.6 volts.
Ground to crank sensor A 11.6 volts
Ground to crank sensor C 5.0 volts
Crank sensor A to B 11.6 volts
Crank sensor B to C 5.0 volts
P on module harness to ground 12 vdc
M on modules harness to ground 12 vdc
Question, is it possible that the fuseable links at the starter connection could be bad, or the starter itself is screwed up somehow? It is a new mini starter.
Thanks Tyler.
