Help!! no start...pulling my hair out

[EyeTalk2Trees]

Ok, the background, was running great and i got in and started it to leave. I forgot my phone and I turned the car off to unlock the door. I get back in 2 minutes later and it won't start. It turns over with the starter and trys to fire over (sounds like one or two cylinders fires) then it doesn't.

Trouble shooting: T-Link shows no codes so I Ohm'd the coil: 10 ohms front to back, looked at the Ignition module: no burning, or melting, or extra hard or soft. I checked the cam sensor and it is set correctly with correct voltage drop at 25degrees. I have 30# of FP when trying to start, and I have a steady strong spark. I even sprayed starting fuel in the trottle body with no results!!!!

It should start but it doesn't. I have fuel and spark at the right time, what could be the problem. I've checked all the FI and timing sensors they are good, how could it just not start....only hting i havent' checked it the computer, could it just...go out all of a sudden? How do you tst the computer? the car was running so great up untill I got in that last time...now nothing!!!

Help please

 

[Buick From Hell]

If you have fuel and spark, then there's only 3 possible reasons for a no-start:

No compression--
Ignition timing's way out of whack--
Cam timing's way out of whack...
(or a combination of the above)

Worst case scenario: You've lost a good portion of your plastic cam gear and the cam's jumped time. Since you're getting spark, at least you know the timing chain's still there!

Best case: You're cam sensor, for whatever reason, needs to be re-set...

 

[EyeTalk2Trees]

I changed the timing chain to a steel double one, the entire valve train is new. and I set the cam timing with the volt meter, just the way i did after i installed the cam, I ran great then. I rechecked the timing, and re-set it, but it acts the same way.

 

[crazygn]

Pull your plugs to see if they are wet, you might have fuel at the rail but not in the cyl. Check the injector harness. Make sure timimgs not 180 out.

 

[HOTSIX]

Gotta be a fuel problem if you have spark.

I'd do a compression test anyway just to satisfy myself - I think 120 or so PSI should be normal / cly .

I had a no start for the longest time and it turned out to be my injectors. How old are yours and when's the last time you had 'um cleaned ?

Whats the fuel filter look like ?

Dont mean to ask the dumb question here but you have gas and it's good right ?

How bout fuel pump and pressure. I know you said you have pressure but does it hold ?

Let us know

 

[EyeTalk2Trees]

the injectors are new Tomco 30# greenstripe. I have only put about 800 miles on them with great results. As far as fuel, I had a tank of bad gas once in my truck so I only get gas from well named places with high traffic, this time i had Chevron 90 octane and I had used about 3/4 of the tank of it. I get about 30# of FP at the rail when I'm starting it up and after 2days it only drops to 20#. I don't have a compression tester but I'll see what I can find and check that.

Could it be the wastegate stuck open and thus not letting the engine to generate any vaccum? Just a thought I had trying to figure why it isn't working.

Its my only car....Help!!

 

[crazygn]

Pull a few plugs and let us know if there is gas on them or no gas at all in it. Then we can go to something else. Maybe your injectors are staying closed, can you hear them when you try to start it, maybe not injectors but maybe the ecm is not telling them to work or something, iam going for any thing here to try to help yea out.

let us know about the plugs. Check you plug wires good to make sure they are not burnt. I had this happen before with a no start.

 

[TType84]

good luck man, thats all i can say.

i had this same stupid BS problem with a honda i put a motor in for my friend.. got spark, got fuel, every once in awhile youd get a pop or two and it sounded like it was gonna start but NO DICE.

hope you get it running soon!

 

[EyeTalk2Trees]

thats exactly my problem, did you ever find out the deal on the honda? Every little bit of information could help, give me something to check at least.

thanks

 

[TType84]

nope.. i think maybe the exhaust cam is 1 tooth off.. but who knows
fuel
spark
no start

 

[crazygn]

Check all the grounds out good to the block. I had a long no start problem , it came out to be the cam sensor cap it had a dead short to two of the wires.

If your getting spark and gas , man thats crazy it would have to be a compression problem but theres no way that all the cyl died on you. Maybe your injectors are stuck open and your getting to much gas and its washing the oil out of the cyl there for you have little compression.

I have my llittle girls b day party to go to i'll think of more

I sound like iam crazy dont i, iam thinking of any thing

 

[EyeTalk2Trees]

I'm getting fuel pressure to the rail, maybe the injectors aren't firing. I tried to squart starting fluid into the intake but there wasn't any change. I'm sure the turbo causeing flow problems for squarting starting fluid into the intake, is there any way around this so I can check to make sure the injectors are firing? And if they aren't what exactly tells the injectors to fire? The ECm? thats the computer with the E-prom...right? passenger kick pannel? alittle light on the lengo

 

[crazygn]

Go to basic hotair info on the top of the main hotair section and you will see the no start test, give it a shoot and see what happens, i will keep thinking. I think the crank sensor times the injectors[ i could be wrong here- let me know if i am] you can also test the injectors to make sure they have voltage at the ecm, in the basic hotair post you will see this, it will show you what pins to check on the ecm.

gotta go the wife says iam on here to much

 

[Buick From Hell]

If you HAVE SPARK but you can't even fire starting fluid, the problem definitely AIN'T FUEL, you have an ignition or cam timing problem of some sort. It could be you have a bad ECM or ignition module causing your spark timing to be scrambled. (?)

 

[HOTSIX]

I'd keep it simple.

It always ends up being something stupid or small.

How do you know you are getting spark ?
What are you doing to test that ?

My educated guess is

1. Cam sensor bad
2. Crank sensor bad
3. ECM bad

I doubt your injectors are the problem, same as compression cant be the problem. Never heard of the wastegate sol. sticking open causing any problem either.

I would try a known GOOD of all 3 above parts on the car first after making sure all your grounds are perfect.

Even if its not one of the above - you can always return the part if its not needed.

 

[EyeTalk2Trees]

I checked the cam sensor by checking the timing with a voltmeter. I checked the spark by pulling off a plug wire and pushing a screw driver in it and mounting the screwdriver about .25 inch away and cranked the motor. There was a big spark regularly. I was told if there was spark the crank sensor was good. and I checked the coil and looked at the modual under the coil, it looked the way it did when i put the new one on. I don't have an ECM (computer with the E-prom?) and I don't know how to check it. THat might be it but how do you check it with out buying a new one. If I buy a new one and test it and thats not It, they won't let me return it.

What other grounds are there, maybe I missed one...I must have missed something.

Edited:
I was just thinking, and I have just got my trans rebuilt, and the trans guy said it wouldn't lock up on the high way, everything else runs great. He said might be the sensors or the TPS. Could a bad TPS should the right position on T-link but not let the car start?

 

[Nocooler]

Originally posted by HOTSIX
I'd keep it simple.

It always ends up being something stupid or small.

My educated guess is

1. Cam sensor bad
2. Crank sensor bad
3. ECM bad

I completely agree.

I'd start with the ecm. Twins car did the same exact thing - had me pulling my hair out.

And no a bad TPS will not keep the car from starting or running.

 

[EyeTalk2Trees]

OK i'll try switching out sensors one at a time. Now just to make sure, the "ECM" is the computer under the passenger kick panel? The Ignition Module is under the coil pack? I'm very familar with the crank and cam sensors.

straighten me out please

 

[HOTSIX]

Yup.

ECM is in the passenger kick panel.

Try the paperclip trick by jumpering (linking together) the last two terminals on the ALDL connector (under the dash on D/Side) and see if you get any blinking service engine soon light.

Number 12 (SES light) is what you should see first. It should repeat this 2X (a total of 3 times).

It flashes 12 like this: one, one two, one,one two, one, one two.

If theres a tripped code, after the 3 sets of number 12, it will flash what ever code is tripped 3 times as well...then back to 12 12 12 and any other codes after that etc.

I believe number 12 signifies a good ecm but i'm not positive if this will tell you 100% that the ECM is good.

If there's no flashes at all - there a problem for sure in this department.

I think the gnttype.org site has a diagram on how to do this if the above is not enough.