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Turbo317

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2001
Messages
252
ok, recently my car coughs and chugs quit often, cant get past 1/4 throttle, and no more than maybe ten lbs of boost, can even generate enough to spin the tires, i got a hold of a tech 1 today, plugged it in and got a code 34 (maf) and a code 45 (rich exhaust) ..... tps is at .40-.42 ..........just checked battery... 12.32 not running, 14.32 when running... so i dunno, i need a chip upgrade.... i will have more input tomorow on the tech 1.
thanks,
Bryan
 
Sounds like your MAF sensor is on it's way to electronic parts heaven.....

The reman stock replacements available are pretty much a crap shoot on whether you'll get one that works well. I'd suggest the the LS1 MAF Translator & an extender chip. A bit pricey, but well worth it for the extra tune-abilty & perf.

What was the TPS at WOT? What is your fuel pressure set at? O2 sensor #'s?

Doug C.
 
Symptoms certainly point at the MAF going belly up.
Code just confirms it.

The MAF Translator / Translator + and LT1 or LS1 MAF combination would be your best bet for years of worry free operating, not to mention the tuneability aspects mentioned!!
 
well i replaced the maf last early last fall with a new one form advancded, would that maf go bad that fast?????? ... well my fuel pressure is at 40, tps.42 to about 4.4 or somewhere around there, ill have 02 #'s in a few hours , well i also did a tap test on the maf and it didn't stutter at all
Thanks
Bryan
 
12.32 volts at the battery/car off?You sure?Ewok's car had a problem similar to yours.The car would start and run fine for a minute or two,then start to run like crud.After playing with different cam sensors and such,it turned out he had an amplifier thta was shorted and dragging down the system.Disconnected the amp and all is well.Seems the car ran fine at at start because the alternator is under high charge,but when it settled down,the system went in the crapper.You need proper system voltage to make the car run right,and from the sounds of it,your battery *may* be bad[alternator working too hard and loading the system down].
 
ok, i got some more info off the tech 1....... maf 5 g/s at idle. intergrator at 128.... block learn around 105-110 ... iac around 40
4-18 crosscounts........ 02's fluctuated from 14o mv's to like 700-800, sometimes more, more 02's- when its in park i rev it to 2000 rpm's 02's are atleast 900mv's......
well hopefully someone can help me, is it my battery.....???
Thanks,
Bryan
Note: replace 02 sensor last october with a purple wire gm
Note: i have a hypertech chip for a stock setup (im not stock anymore)
 
First, it doesn't matter if you replaced your MAF last night if you're getting a bad MAF code...it is screwed. TurboDave has offered a great solution to using rebuilt parts that don't last. Have you run leaded fuel in your car since last October? If you have, your O2 sensor is prolly screwed too! Here's a link to al the codes and their definitions.
Lastly, running a chip that wasn't burned for your specific combo is like trying to make your car run on your favorite beer...just cause you like it doesn't mean the car does. :D
HTH
Jim
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html#45
 
do a quick check on the coil pack, i had the exact symptoms when my CP went out. Not saying that the MAF isnt bad too.
 
i checked the coil pack it tested ok... well then again i had a new one put one on about a year ago
thanks,
bryan
 
I noticed your running 37# injectors with a Hypertech chip. This is probably the cause of your rich condition. Get a chip burned for your combination!

If you have access to a known good MAF, do a quick swap and see if it helps. If your getting a MAF code, chances are it's shot.

TPS at WOT should be over 4.5 I set mine at about 4.7 just to be sure it's reading WOT! This wouldn't cause the severe problems your describing but might as well get everything right while your at it!

Good luck!:)
 
thanks for the input... im gonna get a chip burned later this week and im doing a maf swap tomorow, and gonna see what happens from there
thanks
Bryan
 
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