Help with Cam Sensor

[bmackinnon]

After reading the '180 Out' thread below, I got to thinking my cam sensor might also be 180 out. I have the motor at 25* ATDC, and have read the gnttype procedure(s). Question is... how the %$#% do you get to that bolt to loosen up the sensor?? Do I really have to remove the water line that goes to the front of the intake? Could some of you relate your method to getting that bolt?? I don't want to tear it apart any more than I absolutely need to, and draining water down wasn't something I was wanting to do. I'll do what's necessary, but just thought those of you that have done it 18 times might have a magic trick up your sleeve. I have a 14 mm combo wrench that I had to grind thinner on the closed end for something else that I'm thinking I might heat up and bend? Suggestions? Thanks!

 

[86gn]

I just use a socket to take it off little bit of an angle but it comes off no need to remove the water line. Might help if ya take the cap off the cam sensor

 

[Nasty Wendy]

1/4" drive socket with a swivel and extention and it shouldn't be a problem. Don't take off anything.

 

[bmackinnon]

Thanks!! Gonna' give it another go....

 

[counterman]

Best to use the 1/4 drive set up. It is a 9/16 head. The trick is that the bolt head is directly below the cam sensor bottom edge. As you back the bolt out, the socket can become trapped between the bolt and the sensor body. You need to come at the bolt directly from the driver's side. Run the socket down past the fuel line, through the wire harness, and beside the bypass hose. It's EASY! No, it isn't, and you will have to use your best curse words to make it happen--I guarantee. I didn't have the 1/4 setup, and used the 3/8 drive stuff instead, making the task that much more difficult. Keep in mind that the bolt just has to be loosened if you want to adjust the cam sensor position slightly, but you will have to remove the bolt if you want to restab the unit. A stick magnet will be real handy to catch any loose sockets and the bolt, too. The reinstall can be a pain, too. If you've not done this before, be prepared to play with this thing a few times. You MUST also reindex the oil pump drive in the timing cover to reinstall the sensor. Good luck. Counterman.

 

[bmackinnon]

Thanks guys. I got it. I had to use a 3/8" drive as well, making it more difficult, but you were right!! a little cursing here and there did the trick. Furthermore, it was set pretty close. I had already positioned the motor, so I went ahead and set it perfect. So much for my crappy idle theory... Oh well, I definitely learned some more, so be it. I'm going to install my Direct Scan box now, and see if I can find some more things to work on!! I'm thinking this is going to be worlds better than the old turbolink I've been using. I'm sure I'll be back soon, whining about getting the headers off to fix the cracks. Thanks again!!

 

[novaderrik]

not sure how different the 86/87 setups are, but on my 84 i use a Craftsman Chevy distributor wrench to get at the bolt. no sockets to fall off and fall who knows where, and it takes about 10 seconds to loosen or tighten the bolt without using any swear words at all.

 

[bmackinnon]

It's probably easier on a hot-air, as the up-pipe, and mass air to turbo inlet pipe aren't in the way.... and your accessory setup is a a bit more roomy around there also. not much room to move the dist. wrench on an 86-87, but would probably work also..

 

[jarheadcmchnj]

I just had my bottom end re-done and am now re-installing engine,in my 87 t.I had no idea you have to index the oil pump shaft. Can someone explain how this is done? Also, I have the Cassen's cam sensor tool,but,no directions.Would someone explain how to set the cam sensor,either with or without the sensor tool? Any help will be greatly appreciated Thank's Dan

 

[counterman]

By "indexing the oil pump" I meant that the slot on the oil pump drive has to line up with the bottom of the cam sensor for it to go all the way down. That's all. It may take a try or two before the sensor body falls into place. You just need a long screwdriver to rotate the oil pump shaft to the right orientation. There are some who may not be aware of this relationship. I have heard of people banging on sensors, or in the case of older cars, distributor housings to get them to "stab" not knowing that the oil pump drive is part of the process. Too many years of working the retail parts counter, I guess, for me to take that as a given. You do not have to "time" the oil pump in any way other than setting it so it slips into the bottom of the sensor. No confusion intended. Thanks, Counterman.

 

[jarheadcmchnj]

Thanks for the reply, do you know where I can find the cam sensor setting procedure? I seemm to recall one where you used a test light. Ever hear of it? Thank's Dan

 

[JayC]

Its really not that difficult.

Put the balancer in the correct position. Make sure the motor is on the compression stroke.

Take the cap off the sensor, Align the window down, notch in the sensor body up.

Put the oil pump gear at about 11 oclock

Drop in the cam sensor and fiddle with the oil pump position until everything drops in correctly oriented.

Put the cap back on

Turn the sensor clockwise so the wiring harness for it faces the rad

Turn the sensor counter clockwise until whatever method youre using to indicate youre in the right position tells you so. Im old school, I still use a voltmeter.

Tighten down the sensor

All of this assumes your setting it standing in front of the driver side fender.

People will dispute this and say its not necessary but this is how GM was originally told to set them. Much like the GM IAC reset procedure, people take shortcuts and dont do it the way the factory intended anymore.