Help with wheel fitment

These spacers pilot on the bolts and would be good ones.


I couldn't find any with any with a 70.5mm center bore and hub to pilot the wheels.
The UMI Performance Green Machine uses wilwood aluminum hubs that don't pilot in the wheels and they road race and auto cross it with no troubles.
So if I went with the 18x8s I would do 1/2" spacer front and rear? Are those spacers hub centric? I saw some 1/4" on amazon but they aren't available now. Is the re an easy way to replace the studs without taking them off and using a press?
 
So if I went with the 18x8s I would do 1/2" spacer front and rear? Are those spacers hub centric? I saw some 1/4" on amazon but they aren't available now. Is the re an easy way to replace the studs without taking them off and using a press?

I would use 1/2" for the 18x8's on the front and 1/2" for either the 18x8's or the 18x9.5's on the rear.

You can pound the old studs out with a hammer.
You can suck the new studs in with a nut and ratchet. Tap the back of the stud with a hammer to help. If you don't tap the back it's possible to strip the threads or stretch the stud. Putting oil on the threads helps too.
I've heard putting the new studs in a freezer helps shink them a bit.
If you use an impact wrench it's a lot easier to stretch the stud.

I think the fronts won't be too bad. I'm not sure if there is a notch in the dust shield or if you'll have to remove the brakes and stuff.

It seems the rear has a hole or something to get the stud through, but I'm not sure as I haven't changed my rears yet.

I installed the 12.88 Dia. C5 brake kit on the front and opted for the wilwood aluminum hubs that use 1/2"-20 screw in studs, so I will be replacing the rear studs with some conversion studs that have 1/2"-20 inch threads to keep them the same.

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So the 18x8 w +1os and 4.5 bs would require spacers on front and rear? Does the +1os move the wheel closer to the frame and this is why you would nee the spacers? If this is correct can you advise a place to get the spacers and studs? Thanks again and hope I'm not to much of a pain

If you went with 18x8 wheels and 245/40-18's front and rear, a 1/2" spacer front and rear would work well.
You'll be able to rotate the tires front and rear with this setup.
 
If you went with 18x8 wheels and 245/40-18's front and rear, a 1/2" spacer front and rear would work well.
You'll be able to rotate the tires front and rear with this setup.
The spacers you showed me don't look to be hub centric. Is that a problem? I researched them and like you said the hub centric ones would be better but I can't find them. Would it put to much stress on the studs not being hub centric? I'm not going to be racing or anything just cruzeing. I didn't even think about rotating tires that would be a good idea going 18x8 all around.
 
The UMI Performance '79 Monte (The Green Machine) runs 18x11 wheels with 315/35-18's on all 4's.
They run the wheels off of their old Pontiac (6" backspace with a 1/2" spacer).

They use the C5 brake upgrade with the wilwood aluminum hubs.
The wilwood aluminum hubs don't have a pilot flange on them, the wheels center on the wheel studs (lug centric) and they seem to be good.

I figure if non hubcentric spacers hold up to road racing, they should be good for anything.
The spacers with holes instead of slots should have less chance for vibration.
 
The UMI Performance '79 Monte (The Green Machine) runs 18x11 wheels with 315/35-18's on all 4's.
They run the wheels off of their old Pontiac (6" backspace with a 1/2" spacer).

They use the C5 brake upgrade with the wilwood aluminum hubs.
The wilwood aluminum hubs don't have a pilot flange on them, the wheels center on the wheel studs (lug centric) and they seem to be good.

I figure if non hubcentric spacers hold up to road racing, they should be good for anything.
The spacers with holes instead of slots should have less chance for vibration.
Thank you! I hope not to bother you with this anymore.
 
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