Just finished installing HIDs and the ballasts buzz loudy at first and eventually quiet down. but the supply wire from the relays is getting very warm especially the hi beam supply around the in line fuse?? Is this normal as i don't see how folks are using the stock wiring without relays... How should i fix it?
HID Ballasts buzzing and supply wire gets very warm??
- Thread starter 2QUIK6
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
You use a hotwire?
The ballast for your hids should buzz until it warms up and the color is full depending on if you have the yellowish ones or the bright blues but once the color is full and stops changing the buzzing sound should stop... As far as the wire being hot it is the wire off your headlight harness from the Buick or the wires leaving the ballast to the light bulbs?
1KWIKSIX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2007
- Messages
- 3,222
Glad to hear you're running relays on your set up, cause you'd be playing Russian Roulette otherwise.....people should be sure to run relays on their HID's & / or high wattage H1 or H4 bulbs on these cars as this will releive the load placed on your 27 year old switches which will eventually burn out if not done. Power should be directly from the battery for each with an in line fuse in place.
Not sure why your ballasts are buzzing till warmed up....have you checked to ensure that they do have full 12V?
Not sure why your ballasts are buzzing till warmed up....have you checked to ensure that they do have full 12V?
Last edited:
The buzzing does almost stop after they have warmed up but do not stop completely. The battery was low so that may have something to do with it, its charging now.
For the wiring, the wire that is getting hot is the direct power wire to the relay from the battery/alt post. Especially hot at the in line fuse. It's not too hot to touch but is very close.
I've had on of these inline fuses catch on fire before and still not burn through the fuse due to arcing.
The factory wires to the relay are fine and so are the power wires to the ballasts. This single power wire from the alt/post is powering both bulbs for the high beams and another wire/relay for the low beams.
For the wiring, the wire that is getting hot is the direct power wire to the relay from the battery/alt post. Especially hot at the in line fuse. It's not too hot to touch but is very close.
I've had on of these inline fuses catch on fire before and still not burn through the fuse due to arcing.
The factory wires to the relay are fine and so are the power wires to the ballasts. This single power wire from the alt/post is powering both bulbs for the high beams and another wire/relay for the low beams.
Ok, the buzzing isn't near as bad when the car is running and the battery is charged.
The wire for the high beams to the relay from the alt post gets very warm to the touch though still, low beam power wire is ok.
When the engine is off, and the high beams on, the fuse gets too hot to touch!
Wonder why there is so much difference in the temp when the engine is running / alt charging than when the engine is off and its pure battery power??
The wire for the high beams to the relay from the alt post gets very warm to the touch though still, low beam power wire is ok.
When the engine is off, and the high beams on, the fuse gets too hot to touch!
Wonder why there is so much difference in the temp when the engine is running / alt charging than when the engine is off and its pure battery power??
You might want to check resistance in the wire from the alternator to the fuseholder and the fuseholder to the relay. I had a relay kit replaced because there was no connection between the wire and the metal end in the fuseholder that crimped to the wire. If you have a poor connection that might be causing the wire to heat up.
David
David
These are the purchased relays from Alradco, they are thicker than the stock wiring but uncertain of the gauge.
*
I just checked the resistance of both the lo and hi, and they are 0.2 ohms, I did remove the fuse and the hi one broke pulling it out, one of the pins stayed in and was very tight getting it out. What I noticed is the fuses have super thin connectors, the pack of fuses I had on the self have almost twice the thickness on the spade ends so I swapped them out, it seems to be lots cooler now, but still warm. I took the fuse holders apart and the wires are connected fine, but even the female spade ends for the fuse seem awefully thin, maybe the metal used in these chinese connectors and the chinese fuses just doesn't conduct very good even though they ohm out ok, that is not the same as carrying current....
So I may cut the wire and splice in some thicker heavier fuse holders and thicker wire to the alt post.
*
I just checked the resistance of both the lo and hi, and they are 0.2 ohms, I did remove the fuse and the hi one broke pulling it out, one of the pins stayed in and was very tight getting it out. What I noticed is the fuses have super thin connectors, the pack of fuses I had on the self have almost twice the thickness on the spade ends so I swapped them out, it seems to be lots cooler now, but still warm. I took the fuse holders apart and the wires are connected fine, but even the female spade ends for the fuse seem awefully thin, maybe the metal used in these chinese connectors and the chinese fuses just doesn't conduct very good even though they ohm out ok, that is not the same as carrying current....
So I may cut the wire and splice in some thicker heavier fuse holders and thicker wire to the alt post.
Similar threads
