High BLM's

[iwantatta]

Appreciate all the information. I will double check the fuel pressure. The car needs to be smogged and can't run the adjustable FPR (swapping the chip and FPR happens every 2 years for this reason). I've had the car smogged in the stock configuration about 8 times since owning it and have had no issues driving it. For just cruising around off boost its been fine with no knock until lately. The car was configured with the TT chip when the issue of stalling happened but I'm sure when i installed the FPR years ago i followed Eric's instructions. If something changed with the TT chip it was probably from something else not the fuel adjustment. Before it started stalling recently, the scan master numbers were reading fine including the BLM's. Hopefully i can get some things tried out today. Usually have to wait until the weekend.

 

[iwantatta]

So i tried a few things. Yes i had the FPR numbers backwards its about 40 line off 36 line on with the stock chip and stock FPR. Drove around for about 15min so that it could learn more. It still struggles at the stops. The 2nd BLM cell went up as well after driving around. Didn't see much change in the other BLM cells as i was driving. Cruising around it seemed to like being in Cell 16 and than jump to cell 0 & 1 when coming to a stop. I also took a screen shot after driving around

After driving it around with the stock stuff i threw back in the Adjustable FPR and TT Chip to see what the fuel pressure was. With the line off its reading 43psi and 38psi with line on. Didn't take long for it to start maxing out the Int at 160 so i didn't wait for the BLMS's to change.

Looking like next step is fuel injectors if i can't find any leaks. I haven't tried taping the gauge to the window yet though to see how the fuel pressure changes. I don't understand why cell 16 seems to be going in the other direction. Could that be linked to anything?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

First off, put Erics chip back in again...set the fuel pressure to 43 line off. Follow his instructions for letting the chip learn when you fire it up. I think you said you're using a Blue Streak MAF...which are usually not calibrated correctly. Your MAF number at idle is low at 4.5. Should be 6-7. Post your numbers again when you swap back.

I never tell anyone to spend money when it isn't warranted, but you really need new injectors, a Translator and an LT1 MAF. Eric may sell the whole thing.

Your MAF number tells me it's an issue...and I'm betting you've got pre turbo exhaust leaks somewhere. The drivers side header always cracks...the EGR is notorious for causing issues...the turbo to flange can leak...and the crossover pipe can leak where it bolts to the headers.

 

[hensleyt]

^^^^^ Scooby
What was FP with OE regulator ? Again I agree TT chip needs to find its way in. Eric dose have a emission chip but it should be 128 + or - 5 with the 5.7. And a emission chip won't fix the high BLMs. Your cruse BLMs are not way out there but to tell the truth I don't have a grasp on all their meaning. I use a 6.1 and made a small FP adj to get my idle and cruse. And adj my chip for wide-open throttle to maintain 128.
if FP was 40 not 43 the ECU will be adding fuel making BLMs go UP if you have confirmed No leaks vacuum or exhaust. TT chip and adj FP regulator reinstated Fp set to 43 and drive it for 20 to 30 min. if BLM is 150 add 1 lb FP to 44 Ib and make the same round trip. For me FP adj was the best way to get BLMs for idle and cruse.
If adjusting FP dose not lower BLMs exhaust and vacuum is good you need to look at MAS your first post said you put a DELCO 02 sender.

 

[iwantatta]

^^^^^ Scooby
What was FP with OE regulator ? Again I agree TT chip needs to find its way in. Eric dose have a emission chip but it should be 128 + or - 5 with the 5.7. And a emission chip won't fix the high BLMs. Your cruse BLMs are not way out there but to tell the truth I don't have a grasp on all their meaning. I use a 6.1 and made a small FP adj to get my idle and cruse. And adj my chip for wide-open throttle to maintain 128.
if FP was 40 not 43 the ECU will be adding fuel making BLMs go UP if you have confirmed No leaks vacuum or exhaust. TT chip and adj FP regulator reinstated Fp set to 43 and drive it for 20 to 30 min. if BLM is 150 add 1 lb FP to 44 Ib and make the same round trip. For me FP adj was the best way to get BLMs for idle and cruse.
If adjusting FP dose not lower BLMs exhaust and vacuum is good you need to look at MAS your first post said you put a DELCO 02 sender.

As mentioned in my last post the Adjustable FP and TT chip are currently in the car. Although the logging snap shot i posted is with the stock chip and stock regulator. After reinstalling the TT chip and resetting things with the orange plug and battery the BLMS's started at 128. After a few minutes idling the Integrator was maxing out at 160 and i could see the BLM's creeping up again. Should i be concerned about letting it learning its way up to a BLM of 150 or in the TT case 160? I read somewhere that i may want to change the oil more often as it could be contaminating the oil if its maxing out like that. I did just recently change the oil in the middle of diagnosing all this but couldn't tell you if the oil smelled.

I do have the stock MAF and was trying to rule that out with the hope of seeing something different with the BlueStreak.

I will probably try the injectors first and then the MAF Translator. Is the Denso a better option than the AC Delco? I've always leaned to the AC Delco stuff with this car when its available.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Click below:

blms

 

[hensleyt]

Click below:

blms

good read
lets see some pic. of the plugs

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I've tested a lot of the cheapo gauges on my injection bench.
Checked against the same gauge used to test the injectors.
As mentioned, I've seen them off as much as 10psi, especially at the lower end.
Some gain accuracy as I turn the pressure up. Some don't.
For those that choose to use that style of gauge, I could run it when I do the injs, and provide an offset value vs what the injs are being flowed at. Unless otherwise requested, I use either 3 or 4 bar settings.

 

[iwantatta]

good read
lets see some pic. of the plugs

Recently pulled spark plugs. I have another set in there right now as well as i know they are probably going to get ruined until this gets figured out. I change the spark plugs at least once a year as they are easy to do and relatively inexpensive

 

[GNONYX]

I too had a BLM of 150, and after many hours, days and weeks of troubleshooting I finally repaired and replaced Throttle Body gaskets, IAC solenoid gasket, turbo gaskets (inserted photos), header gaskets, and also found a couple of small vacuum lines at connected points.
I 1st used a clean shop vacuum cleaner by placing the shop vacuum exhaust pipe inside on of the car exhaust pipe and use a rag to block off the other side of the car exhaust pipe. Get a water spray bottle with some dish detergent; shake it a little and once the shop vacuum is turn on start spraying around the headers, cross over pipe, all over Throttle body areas including at the Throttle Body shaft, and also vacuum lines.
I also made an inlet turbo tool to be uses with compress air with a regulated air valve adjusted between 10-15 lbs, and then use the soapy water bottle sprayer.
I also made a smoke machine, and smoke the inlet turbo to see if any vacuum area was leaking.
The pictures are some example's I used to make sure the Throttle Body Housing surface is flat, and if any headers having some crack.
I finally repaired all, but it seems after replacing two sets of headers gaskets it leaked even after both headers were sent to machine shop that used a sanding belt machine.
I decided to used RTV like the factory did and that seal both headers to head, and crossover pipes as well. I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

 

[GNONYX]

Her are some more to look for

 

[hensleyt]

Very well done. It wasn't just one thing ,it was a bunch of small things. Im sure it is the same with OP

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I've found a couple that turned out to be the plenum gasket across the ft of the opening.
Without a fastener there, high egt circulating, and 30+ yrs of "high pressure" applied, it can leak.

 

[iwantatta]

So far its looking the like its the MAF. Replaced it with the LT1 and Translator and seems to be idling better and BLMS's locked at 128 idle. Drove it around a good amount today making a few stops here and there. Never once felt like it was going to stall at a stop light. With the other MAF's it wouldn't take like before maxing the BLMS's and stumbling at idle. Want to drive it around a little more but its been raining everyday around here. Lucky to get out today.
I'm wondering if i can replace the MAF with my stock TTA MAF which is still good just to get the thing smogged. Seems like it should be ok since the MAF Translator can be used for both cars. The LT1 MAF wont fit on the stock air filter box. I'm running an open filter right now.

 

[iwantatta]

So far its looking the like its the MAF. Replaced it with the LT1 and Translator and seems to be idling better and BLMS's locked at 128 idle. Drove it around a good amount today making a few stops here and there. Never once felt like it was going to stall at a stop light. With the other MAF's it wouldn't take like before maxing the BLMS's and stumbling at idle. Want to drive it around a little more but its been raining everyday around here. Lucky to get out today.
I'm wondering if i can replace the MAF with my stock TTA MAF which is still good just to get the thing smogged. Seems like it should be ok since the MAF Translator can be used for both cars. The LT1 MAF wont fit on the stock air filter box. I'm running an open filter right now.

 

[iwantatta]

Got the car smogged with my TTA MAF and car does seem to be running a lot better. Passed with good numbers. Now i need to get another MAF Translator. Thanks for the help! MAF is reading around 6.