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Hold balancer in place while tightening

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John Larkin

Sublime Master of Turbology
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
4,994
I did a search and the least intrusive way I have seen is to put some bolts in the holes around the circumference of the balancer and use a bar between them to hold it. I don't see this as a bad thing, the metal is way too thick to bend. The engine is obviously in the car if you've been following my saga. I don't have specialty tools to hold the flywheel or a lift to put the car on. Just me and my cardboard on the floor. If I am screwing up tell me. I confuse easily so take it slow.
 
Been a while since I've done this, IIRC, I used a tire iron or the large screwdriver through an opening in the flexplate. With the engine rotated so that the bar sits up against the block. I've read/heard that vice-grips clamped onto the flexplate can also be used.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
I have been struggling with that for years. It's supposed to be tightened to 200 ft. lbs. and trying to bar it with locking up the balancer never seemed to work properly.

So I finally found the correct way to do it. You will need a high power pneumatic impact and a good air supply. Use a 200ft/lb impact tool, and don't bother to hold the balancer - just sock it in. However, you will need to remove every obstruction in front to get the impact wrench to fit in the space.

In the long run, it's the only safe way to do it. I have had that bolt come loose due to under-tightening, and it gets ugly when that happens. The balancer bore always cracks at the key slot...
 
I did a search and the least intrusive way I have seen is to put some bolts in the holes around the circumference of the balancer and use a bar between them to hold it. I don't see this as a bad thing, the metal is way too thick to bend. The engine is obviously in the car if you've been following my saga. I don't have specialty tools to hold the flywheel or a lift to put the car on. Just me and my cardboard on the floor. If I am screwing up tell me. I confuse easily so take it slow.

Clamp a pair of visegrips onto the flywheel so they wedge up against the engine block/trans bell housing and not allow it to rotate. Works great when you torque the balancer bolt to 219 ft lbs. I use a 1/2'' drive 20'' long torque wrench and deep well socket 1-1/8''
 
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What John said... A hipo impact, and sock it to her!
I have a 600# unit w/ adjustable air psi. It's known as "Big Mo". I set it at 1/2, and hammer away. Have yet to have 1 come loose.
I clean the threads on the bolt and in the crank, add some Loctite.
 
I've used vice grips or have used a long wheel stud through one of the holes in flex plate. Rotate engine until either hits the back of the block. I put Red lock tite on the balancer bolt as well.
 
Just did this on mine in the car. Used a 1/2 drive extension thru the flex plate against the block and used my torque wrench rated to 250 lbs. I started at 100 lbs and worked my way up to 219 lbs. Was a lot easier than I thought.
 
With the engine in the car, looks like I will be dropping the trans inspection cover and getting something in there to block the flexplate. I've done worse, just wanted to save some effort but I don't think there is a better way. Thanks for the suggestions! I have a 250 lb ft wrench and a 28mm socket so I can sneak up on it and get this done tonight.
 
I did mine in the car. Safest way if you are using a torque wrench. On an engine stand I would be worried about tipping it over.
 
I did mine in the car. Safest way if you are using a torque wrench. On an engine stand I would be worried about tipping it over.


When on an engine stand just stand on the front legs of the stand. All of the torque applied is contained in the stand. The stand won't move no matter how much torque you apply.
 
ARP makes a bolt that requires less torq. I myself became tired of cranking down to 219 ft lb
 
Vice grips FTW! It was the most simple solution. Thanks for the suggestions. It's tight. Snuck up on it from 70 in 30 lb increments. That wrench gets pretty tight when you get above 160, hard to twist and I get a snap versus a nice little click when torquing lug nuts. No more wobble.
 
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