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turbo buicks

ESADAH!!!
Joined
Jun 13, 2002
Messages
2,936
how can i get my car to hold more boost by powerbraking it. i have 275-60-15 BFG Radial T/A's on stock GN wheels and stock drums. i can get it to 0 vac/psi but at 1/2 psi it starts to squeal. this is with my left foot pretty firmly planted on the brake. my friend watched me and said my tires spun slowly in place but quietly a few secs before they squealed at 1/2 psi.
 
you can go with a power master set up,alum. drums,E-brake launch,looser converter,better tires,trans brake, Im sure im missing some other stuff too!

HTH

Bo
 
i have the stock PM brakes. ive heard a few things about alum. drums cracking. some guys were arguing about backing plates being broken on e brake launches. a t brake would kill my aamco tranny in 2 secs. the converter and tires are possible though. how much psi could i hold w/better tires and a looser
(2800-3000) stall converter?
 
Well, with my experience with the TTA, I can hold about 3psi before I start to break loose(2200-2400 stall). So, with 2800-3000 stall maybe 4 or 5 psi ....with e-brake launch I have gotten 12psi:eek: on street with no traffic! almost wrecked the car:eek:

what are your mods?
 
Rons new brake booster @ Rons custom Auto 800-718-7667 I like it and it was some what cheap.
Don
 
i can hold 10 psi with my stock brake setup?:confused:

don't know how i do it...press on the brake as hard as you can i guess
 
At the beginning of the season, I could hold 8#s (26-2800 stall converter) on my 92,000 mile aluminum drums, but by mid summer I could barely hold 3-5#s. My drums actually had cracked, both the aluminum casting as well as the linings (I already had S-10 wheel cylinders). Replaced the drums with GM cast iron and soft shoes, but still could not hold boost above 3-5. Ended up having to turn the NEW GM drumbs because they were out of round. Now back to holding 8#'s on the line.
 
Originally posted by d0n_3d
i can hold 10 psi with my stock brake setup?:confused:

don't know how i do it...press on the brake as hard as you can i guess

I agree.. I can hold over 15 with mine.. Just push on the brake pedal until your face looks like this:mad:

My opinion on the bigger brake shoes and cylinders is that it works for some and not at all for others.. It' seems to be a 50/50 fix, imo.

I think the brake boost or whatever it's called is the best and prolly a "sure fix" although I haven't used one..

ks:cool:
 
Originally posted by KEVINS


I agree.. I can hold over 15 with mine.. Just push on the brake pedal until your face looks like this:mad:

LOL!!! that is funny

i just changed all my brake shoes and springs and such and even though i haven't done all that much brake boosting yet...the car feels like it wants to jump off the line now...

before...i had barely any pads left and i was starting to wear on the discs in the front...but i could hold 10 lbs or more all day and car wouldn't BUDGE...but now since i changed all the pads and stuff it feels like it wants to jump the line a bit...hmmmmm
 
i hagve been thinking about getting one of those brake booster thingys by ron. i saw it first in GMHTP and wondered about it. how much boost have you been able to hold w/it and how much was it?
 
Originally posted by turbo buicks
i hagve been thinking about getting one of those brake booster thingys by ron. i saw it first in GMHTP and wondered about it. how much boost have you been able to hold w/it and how much was it?

I have heard mixed reviews about that jumper valve setup, mostly regarding the parts that are used in the kit. I have no experience with it so I cannot say but I bet if you ask Jim Testa what he thinks he would tell you it's not a good idea. A search on the baord may turn up more info on that.

I personally went withthe bigger cyl's and the longer soft shoes, and then added and adjustable prop valve so that I can have one setting for the street and one for the track. I can hold well over 10psi if I so choose.
 
Originally posted by c&cgn

I personally went withthe bigger cyl's and the longer soft shoes, and then added and adjustable prop valve so that I can have one setting for the street and one for the track. I can hold well over 10psi if I so choose.
Clayton, I am installing the cyl's and soft shoes at this time. Where do you get the adj prop valve and could you explain how that works? I do have a line lock to install down at the prop valve for the front brakes to use during the burnout. Thanks, Tim
 
Originally posted by tim87tr

Clayton, I am installing the cyl's and soft shoes at this time. Where do you get the adj prop valve and could you explain how that works? I do have a line lock to install down at the prop valve for the front brakes to use during the burnout. Thanks, Tim

I bought mine from a local speed shop but I believe Summit has them as well, and they are about $40 or so. I think mine is a Wlidwood brand. I can't explain much about the install as I had a shop do it. I don't like messing with the PM brake setup. Hope that helps a little.
 
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