Horn Internals

[dmcampbell7]

Hoping someone can explain how the GN/T Type horn buttons work. I have a plain Jane Regal that I’m putting a t type steering wheel on and have pieced together the parts. The steel contact part with the wire that connects to the horn feed was severely rusted so I got all the rust off and painted it to keep it from rusting again, knowing I’d have to remove the paint from a surface or two for grounding the plate. Problem is, I’m not sure what surface. It’s hard to tell how these actually work and if I’m missing a spring or something. I do understand that the wire and tube slides in and locks like on my old wheel. Can someone take a minute to explain how these work and if I’m missing a component? Also, if you could look at the pics and pic the surface or surfaces I need to remove paint from, I numbered them. Thanks in advance!

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

I’m pretty sure the connection on the horn acts like a ground. There are like three metal bulges on the plate then foam in the middle to separate the connection. The lower plate is bolted to the column. When you push the button in the plates make contact. Then the circuit has made it ground and horn on.


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[dmcampbell7]

I’m pretty sure the connection on the horn acts like a ground. There are like three metal bulges on the plate then foam in the middle to separate the connection. The lower plate is bolted to the column. When you push the button in the plates make contact. Then the circuit has made it ground and horn on.


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I had wondered if it was that sandwiched foam that was like the spring, but then why would the horn go off just from putting the wire in the tube?

 

[mikestertwo]

You have to remove the paint from surface #4. That plate has to be grounded to the steering wheel. Are you saying the horn goes off as soon as you plug the wire all the way in the bayonet connector or when you are trying to install it. If the spring or wire touches any metal part on the steering wheel the horn will sound. Make sure you have no continuity between the upper and lower plates until you press the to plates together. The foam acts as the spring to keep them separate.

 

[dmcampbell7]

Ok, thanks Tricksixpa, unplugged the horns, put the wire in place and put it all together and it works. Foam is old and crumbling so might have to replace that one day. Thank again.

 

[dmcampbell7]

You have to remove the paint from surface #4. That plate has to be grounded to the steering wheel. Are you saying the horn goes off as soon as you plug the wire all the way in the bayonet connector or when you are trying to install it. If the spring or wire touches any metal part on the steering wheel the horn will sound. Make sure you have no continuity between the upper and lower plates until you press the to plates together. The foam acts as the spring to keep them separate.

Hmmm, I didn’t remove any paint and it works fine.

 

[mikestertwo]

Hmmm, I didn’t remove any paint and it works fine.

Then there is some bare spots in the paint where it is contacting the steering wheel otherwise it wouldn't work.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

You can go out and buy some 1/4” foam at the hardware store and clean the old parts and put the new foam in. Just need some spray adhesive or glue. Leave holes in foam where the bumps are.


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[dmcampbell7]

Then there is some bare spots in the paint where it is contacting the steering wheel otherwise it wouldn't work.

Nope, has a layer of primer and two coats of paint, no bare spots. I thought it was odd also.

 

[mikestertwo]

Nope, has a layer of primer and two coats of paint, no bare spots. I thought it was odd also.

Guaranteed the metal disk is electrically contacting the steering wheel and most likely it's at the outer edge of the disk where it has a sharp edge caused by the stamping when it is made. There is no way it will work if that disk is not electrically contacting the steering wheel. The only way the horn can work is if that wire gets grounded and the only ground available at that point is the steering wheel.