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How long should it take to change injectors on an 84

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It should not run with the oil pressure switch disconnected.

but they do run with the oil pressure switch disconnected. my car didn't even have an oil pressure switch in it when i got it due to the way some people are too lazy to use a T fitting when they run an oil pressure gauge, and it ran perfect.

and if low oil pressure was the OP's problem and it wouldn't run with low oil pressure, then how was it running at all when he drove it to the shop for them to do their usual "keep throwing expensive parts at it until it accidentally fixes itself" approach to automotive repair?
 
my 85 gn would not run with a bad oil pressure sensor. this is how i learned of this years ago......
 
my 85 gn would not run with a bad oil pressure sensor. this is how i learned of this years ago......
Assuming the oil sensor is a ground out switch, the car may not run with a bad sensor i.e. grounded out. But if it was disconnected it would run because it is not grounded out. Ran into this with a temp sensor on a 4.3L in my s-10. Bad sensor - wont run. Unplug the sensor and it would run.
 
Hey hey hey guys. Wow - sure a lot of discussion here. Let me give you all a thumbnail sketch of the last for or five years.

I was experiencing a knock somewhere in the engine bay and a leaky front mail seal. Pulled the engine and replaced the following (with a GM mechanic who worked on GNs back in the day):
Crank turned 10 and 10 - almost got away with a polish
Main and rod bearings .010 over
Cam and cam bearings replaced
Cam gears and timing chain
Cam sensor replaced
Rings
Oil pressure pump
All required bolts, gaskets, seals etc. (note - have brand new head bolts for sale as the GM dealer did not know that you don't have to replace head bolts on the '84, and neither did I until after I had bought them)

I'm sure we changed other stuff but you get the gist of it anyway. All done in 2007-08. Car back on road in August 08.

Had a fuel issue regarding no pressure at rail after sitting overnight, in summer 2011. Felt it was the flow-back check valve and sure enough after changing the fuel pump the problem was solved. In the process i changed out the Fuel relay, Fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.

Drove to Florida in November 2012 and shortly after arriving the engine developed a very severe rough idle. A shop that normally works on Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porche, Deloreans etc ( meaning expensive ($110/hr shop labor.) diagnosed the problem as a valve job (#5 was 50 psi). Machine shop who did the work verified #5 had a burnt valve and that all guides were good. He replaced intake seals and swore I should have replaced exhaust seals too. I told him there were none and he said his "book" called for them (nobody understands these cars).

Car still had a rough idle, just not as rough. Took it back and they said they traced the problem to a bad vacuum line. Yes the car idled much better but it was still not quite right. Changed out fuel filter and PCV after the drive back to Canada in April 2013.

Idle got progressively worse until it was really hard to keep the car running at all and I was getting a lot of pops through the intake.

Went to dealer as last resort. I can handle all the easy mechanical stuuf but really do not feel confident in tackling the electronic/complicated stuff.
I drove the car for about 150kms on Sunday to a fathers day car show and the engine was "missing" all the way there and back. Delaer admitted yesterday morning that they knew the engine was missing but had not told the service rep who released the car to me.

OK so now you are up to date. Dealer admits still a problem with no clear solution eyt but was to change out the IAC to correct the idle. It runs fairly smoothly on idle and not under load, at about 1200 rpm. Miss is still there.

I really appreciate all of the airtime my problem is getting and i am learning that there are a lot of possibilities. I do not have a no oil pressure problem or the engine would have seized up in the 120 miles I have driven the car since picking it up from the dealer last Friday. My gut say check out the harmonic balancer or flex plate.

If and when this gets fixed I will post what I hope to be the end of the saga. Any other thoughts do not be afraid to post them.

Thanks
Phil Errett
Canada
 
Hey hey hey guys. Wow - sure a lot of discussion here. Let me give you all a thumbnail sketch of the last for or five years.

I was experiencing a knock somewhere in the engine bay and a leaky front mail seal. Pulled the engine and replaced the following (with a GM mechanic who worked on GNs back in the day):
Crank turned 10 and 10 - almost got away with a polish
Main and rod bearings .010 over
Cam and cam bearings replaced
Cam gears and timing chain
Cam sensor replaced
Rings
Oil pressure pump
All required bolts, gaskets, seals etc. (note - have brand new head bolts for sale as the GM dealer did not know that you don't have to replace head bolts on the '84, and neither did I until after I had bought them)

I'm sure we changed other stuff but you get the gist of it anyway. All done in 2007-08. Car back on road in August 08.

Had a fuel issue regarding no pressure at rail after sitting overnight, in summer 2011. Felt it was the flow-back check valve and sure enough after changing the fuel pump the problem was solved. In the process i changed out the Fuel relay, Fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.

Drove to Florida in November 2012 and shortly after arriving the engine developed a very severe rough idle. A shop that normally works on Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porche, Deloreans etc ( meaning expensive ($110/hr shop labor.) diagnosed the problem as a valve job (#5 was 50 psi). Machine shop who did the work verified #5 had a burnt valve and that all guides were good. He replaced intake seals and swore I should have replaced exhaust seals too. I told him there were none and he said his "book" called for them (nobody understands these cars).

Car still had a rough idle, just not as rough. Took it back and they said they traced the problem to a bad vacuum line. Yes the car idled much better but it was still not quite right. Changed out fuel filter and PCV after the drive back to Canada in April 2013.

Idle got progressively worse until it was really hard to keep the car running at all and I was getting a lot of pops through the intake.

Went to dealer as last resort. I can handle all the easy mechanical stuuf but really do not feel confident in tackling the electronic/complicated stuff.
I drove the car for about 150kms on Sunday to a fathers day car show and the engine was "missing" all the way there and back. Delaer admitted yesterday morning that they knew the engine was missing but had not told the service rep who released the car to me.

OK so now you are up to date. Dealer admits still a problem with no clear solution eyt but was to change out the IAC to correct the idle. It runs fairly smoothly on idle and not under load, at about 1200 rpm. Miss is still there.

I really appreciate all of the airtime my problem is getting and i am learning that there are a lot of possibilities. I do not have a no oil pressure problem or the engine would have seized up in the 120 miles I have driven the car since picking it up from the dealer last Friday. My gut say check out the harmonic balancer or flex plate.

If and when this gets fixed I will post what I hope to be the end of the saga. Any other thoughts do not be afraid to post them.

Thanks
Phil Errett
Canada

So the story remains much the same with a new IAC motors and new spark plugs. I posted this on the other site too.


Engine misfire after dealer installs new injectors - 1984 GN
OK so here i am again, hat in hand and praying for help!

I had an extreme rough idle and yet car still performed well at WOT- took 84 GN to a respected GM dealer in a town close to Ottawa, Canada, with a shop foreman who has a great reputation (built a very cool rat rod).

Car diagnosed with a need to replace 29 year old injectors and 29 year old IAC motor.

OK that done and now the car has a misfire (I believe). Idle is better. Car sounds like it is running on four or five cylinders and car shakes from 0-130 kph. If you drive gently the shake/shudder/misfire is most prominent around 75kph when she drops down into overdrive and labours when getting up to speed.

Dealership seems to be at a loss to figure this out and I am frankly getting very discouraged. Car is back in my hands for two weeks before it goes back to the dealer.

Your thoughts and suggestion will be most appreciated.
 
So the story remains much the same with a new IAC motors and new spark plugs. I posted this on the other site too.


Engine misfire after dealer installs new injectors - 1984 GN
OK so here i am again, hat in hand and praying for help!


I had an extreme rough idle and yet car still performed well at WOT- took 84 GN to a respected GM dealer in a town close to Ottawa, Canada, with a shop foreman who has a great reputation (built a very cool rat rod).

Car diagnosed with a need to replace 29 year old injectors and 29 year old IAC motor.

OK that done and now the car has a misfire (I believe). Idle is better. Car sounds like it is running on four or five cylinders and car shakes from 0-130 kph. If you drive gently the shake/shudder/misfire is most prominent around 75kph when she drops down into overdrive and labours when getting up to speed.

Dealership seems to be at a loss to figure this out and I am frankly getting very discouraged. Car is back in my hands for two weeks before it goes back to the dealer.

Your thoughts and suggestion will be most appreciated.
heres my advice ,try reversing your plug wires compared to the picture under your hood ,so the passenger side wires should run to the front of the coils ,and the drivers side wires should run to the backs , it will smooth everything out . next set your iac ,while the car is hot to the idle desired ,next set your tps to .42 to .46 with key on engine off , still with key on engine off set max reading on tps to 4.85 volts max while the acellerator is pushed to the floor . Start engine , rev it up some and let it idle down , after it wrms up and kicks itself down to idle ,if its low or high you make very small adjustments to the idle control screw as you rev up and let off the throttle some every adjustment . you have to check the tps voltage as you do this because it moves ,you will feel the miss leave when you hit the sweet spot ,its a very small window . I am in kingston if you need advice or or a hand with this sometime shoot me a message
 
how are your valve seals ? you may have a oil leak in your turbo . same problem here right now
 
Sorry for not having brought everyone up to date. I was fed up with the engine miss still being there and I called on a old buddy from back in the day - 32 year GM tech - he came out to my place and we tested coils, plugs, wires, injectors, vaccum leaks etc. and guess what - the miss was because the injector plug on # one was broken and the clip was not holding tight to the injector. dug up a tie wrap and the miss was fixed. As billy suggests I now need to reset IAC and TPS values.

Bottom line - car runs great at WOT and I am back to enjoying the road again. I negotiated with the dealership and they agree to compensate me for my frustrations. I am satisfied with the credit they are holding for me.

Valve seals are fine billy, as are valve guides. Compression also fine. I have two or three spare turbos so I may just swap it a couple of times as I could well have an oil leak past the cartridge in the turbo. Going to Kingston to visit friends soon - whereabouts are you billy?
 
Hi Phil, I'm Danny from turbobuicks AKA Baceiredo glad to hear your 84 is doing fine.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Glad to hear you got it fixed. I have not let a shop or dealer work on any of my cars
since 1987 and never will again. I took my car in for a free oil change(it was less than
1 year old), came to pick it up, they had taken out the trans...said it was shifting hard!
Two weeks later I finally got the car back with a frickin reman trans...never again!
I will have them do alignments but only after I have replaced the worn out parts.
 
Back in Florida again - no problems on the open road - still a rough idle - worse when warmed up. So far I have reset the TPS and it idles so-so @ 1000rpm. Looks like I need a digital tach to set the IAC and start again.

I heard that Daewoo makes an ALDL cable adapter that I can plug into a laptop and with right software can get all OBD 1 info? Anyone heard of this?

Danny, got folks coming for Xmas but would love to meet you and your tech guy in Jan sometime.

Phil
stock 84 and proud of it
 
Ongoing story continues. I found a guy in Naples who seems to know what he is doing. He ran a smoke test and discovered air leaking into throttle body around the butterfly shaft. A bit of grease later and the rough idle went away. Trying for permanent solution with a shop in Winnipeg, Canada.
 
Ongoing story continues. I found a guy in Naples who seems to know what he is doing. He ran a smoke test and discovered air leaking into throttle body around the butterfly shaft. A bit of grease later and the rough idle went away. Trying for permanent solution with a shop in Winnipeg, Canada.

Is the shaft worn that bad to cause that much unmetered air to go in and cause that stumble.
 
Is the shaft worn that bad to cause that much unmetered air to go in and cause that stumble.
To me it didn't look that bad, but; a little grease did the trick - blew me away - I have been used to the engine running way lean, having to feather the gas pedal at stop lights, SES codes thrown all the time, etc. After the grease fix I found myself feather the gas at stop lights out of habit 'cause I sure don't need to any more. Go figure.
 
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