How many degrees of camber?

[TEST MY 6]

Just wondering for those out there into handleing how many degrees of -camber are you running and if anyone running theese pole position upper arms what is the total -camber amount at full compression?
http://www.polepositionrp.com/muscle_car_arms.htm

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by TEST MY 6
Just wondering for those out there into handleing how many degrees of -camber are you running and if anyone running theese pole position upper arms what is the total -camber amount at full compression?

http://www.polepositionrp.com/muscle_car_arms.htm

At normal ride height:
-3/4d has worked for me. Going to -1/4, to -1/2 would probably get more tire life.

Total neg camber at full compression, is about the fulcrum placements. The arm lenghts aren't critical in that reguard, since they are a function of the fulcrum placements, and alignment specs..

I have the PP arms, and while not in yet, it's been interesting to say the least. He sent a *bent* plate for the ball joint, but mine seems to want the flat one, so I exchanged them. Then the link lenghts were wrong, so that took some remachining. Hopefully, in the not too distant future, I'll be getting them in.

 

[TEST MY 6]

Thanks Bruce, Did you purchase the balljoints from them too? If so which ones?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

I have the PP 9200M's with 1/2 ton Chevy truck upper ball joints.

I'm dialed in at -0.75 degrees with 4 degrees of caster. It wears evenly on the road, but when autocrossing the car, I'm still getting a lot of wear on the outsides of the tires, even with the tires pumped up to 45psi. Turn-in is good, understeer is almost gone and is throttle correctable.

I think to really get the fronts planted and wearing evenly in a hard-driving situation like an autocross would take at least two degrees negative, but that would eat up the fronts on the street.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by TEST MY 6
Thanks Bruce, Did you purchase the balljoints from them too? If so which ones?

The ones that came with them.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY
I have the PP 9200M's with 1/2 ton Chevy truck upper ball joints.

I'm dialed in at -0.75 degrees with 4 degrees of caster. It wears evenly on the road, but when autocrossing the car, I'm still getting a lot of wear on the outsides of the tires, even with the tires pumped up to 45psi. Turn-in is good, understeer is almost gone and is throttle correctable.

I think to really get the fronts planted and wearing evenly in a hard-driving situation like an autocross would take at least two degrees negative, but that would eat up the fronts on the street.

Those are about the specs, I'm going to shoot for.

I've been thinking of redrilling the upper A-Arm mounting holes, just a tad lower, and welding in some washers, just to guarantee a flat mounting surface. That way there'd be a tad more neg camber change in cornering.

I just wish I had the equipment to really check, and adjust, the bump steer.

 

[TEST MY 6]

Thanks for the reply guys you have been really helpful. Turbo6inKY can you explain the difference in the arms in the link above to the ones you bought. Bruce I noticed the pp musclecar arms already come with the lowerd joint, Is this what you have please explain the spacinglowering process thanks

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Only difference I can tell from the pictures is the balljoint mount plate is canted 20 degrees on the arms you linked. The 9200M's I bought have flat ball joint mount plates.

The canted balljoint plates weren't available when I bought my arms in December 2003. I'm not sure what the canted plate gives you, and they don't have any real explanation on the site.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by TEST MY 6
Bruce I noticed the pp musclecar arms already come with the lowerd joint, Is this what you have please explain the spacinglowering process thanks

The ball joint lowering is, IMO, just nonsense. The fulcrum of the ball joint is always in the same relative position to the spindle with our without the spacers. Maybe, in some appls., being able to move the arm up or down would do some good, but the spacers don't change the geometry.

When we had them mocked up originally, it looked like with the offset plates, the Ball Joint might bottom out in it's *surround*.

If you look at the Global West Arms, their almost flat rather then offset. BTW, going from the B-Spindles back to the G-Spindles, only took flipping the mounting shaft over (it's offset).