how much $$ is it gonna cost to get into the 12's?



Starting with a stock 84-85', how much money would i be looking at to get it down into the 12's? I know i would need to know what it runs now but on average what does it cost to put these cars into the 12's and still be drivable?

They'll go as fast as you want and still be drivable. You'll need a small turbo upgrade, fuel pump, regulator, filter, race chip with lots of timing, open exhaust, slicks, racegas, and that should do it on a good day if you can drive.

Another way is to add an intercooler, slicks, racegas, race chip, and that's it. That's how a friend of mine did it but it's not recommended on the stock fuel pump.
All of the above and a hellofalotta luck.

You really need to find someone that can help you tune. Then tune somemore. I've been chucking $ at my car for 5 years and I have the parts to go mid-low 12's, but I'll be damned if that can happen.

Fuel system, good gas, tires, a chip, and seems to work for a lucky few.
if youre lucky.. you'll get to mid 13's no problem..

like my car, i put an ATR dp on, and with slicks, and a little more than 18psi boost (which is what i ran on the 13.6 run)... it should run a 12 no problem..


In my case, I put on the ATR dp and had about a million problems for no reason.

The car would pop then stall when doing a burnout, no visible wires were shorting out, false knock when NOTHING is touching or rubbing, etc.. ranDUMB problems.

Hopefully they're sorted out..
Turbo upgrade=$800
Crossover &
fuel pump=$100
adj regulator=$125
boost gauge=$60
knock gauge=$90
turbo link=$140
160 degree therm=$9
Plug and wires=$40
K&N filter=$45
Homemade cold air=$15
Electric fan(used)=$20
93 octane chip=$75
Total basics=$2869
Wheels & slicks (used)=$350
Torque Convertor=$300
shift kit=$100
rebuild tranny=$600
grand total before alcohol injection=$4239

lemme revise list:
Turbo upgrade=$600
Exhaust=$0 (open exhaust.. who needs exhaust?)
Headers=$35 (reweld)
Crossover &
Downpipe=$230 (atr)
fuel pump=$65 (yea a walbro, you can get them cheap just know where to look)
adj regulator=$65 (martone)
boost gauge=$40 (summit)
knock gauge=$80 (fast freddie or caspers)
160 degree therm=$4 (pep boys)
Plug and wires=$90 NGK's and some good wires.. i got msd's
K&N filter=$45 yea..
Homemade cold air=$15 lowe's,
Electric fan(used)=$20
93 octane chip=$50 jay carter

Total basics=$1339

You dont need a turbo to run 12's, and im going to prove that soon I hope... that'd make it about 739$
Hey man, if you can get me a Walbro for 65bucks....I'll take two!

There's lots of ways to get 12's out of it. Everything from lightening the car to switching to an IC'd setup. All have their advantages and disadvanatages. I'm glad Mike touched on the thermostat issue. You gotta run one man. No if's, and's, or but's about it. The car will still run hot, but it's not gonna run dangerously hot. Keeping things cool under the hood is also a must if you run an open air element. You really should look into running air under the hood via scoops that can be bought(or you can make your own) for the later model airdams. You can fit em to the factory one the same way. A better radiator will help a little too. Tuning, tuning, and more tuning. You may want to also consider an 86/87 ECM and MAF sensor, or better yet, instead of the 86/87 MAF sensor, go with the LT1 or LS1 and a translator or translator plus. Next, you'll need to upgrade the ignition if it's not already done. More fuel requires more spark and they're cheaper to replace anyway. Definitely gotta have enough fuel. 30's will be enough, but I'd go with some 36lb bluetops(bosch 868's). As for the regulator, an adjustable one is needed. You can "old school" it with a 237(provides about 60psi with vac line off), but it's best to get at least a billet top one. I think they're adjustable to around 40psi. Gotta get the gauges in there. Keeping an eye on your vital signs is a must. Eng. temp, oil pressure, and boost should come first. A knock gauge can be added along with an air-fuel gauge if you don't have a scan tool. And you'll need a fuel pressure gauge for adjustments of the regulator. The stock headers will do for 12's. Crossover and DP need to go. ATR's are good and I don't think there's anything else out there anyway. Traction, traction, traction. Some DOT slicks will be of great benefit. You need to box in the lower control arms or add billet lowers. Pinion snubber and new axle snubbers(if needed) will work against the axle twist and help calm things down back there. Drag shocks work, plain and simple, but they aren't necessary in my opinion(and a lot of other people's too...). You do need to get a rear seat brace if there's not one in it. Front frame braces will just add weight. Don't worry about them unless it's a T-Top car. If it is, you can add them and will notice a difference(I did). Don't pay for em. Go to a salvage yard and get them. I've had good luck finding em on V8 Cutlass's... As for the turbo, you really should consider an upgrade. It'll cost more than any of the other stuff, but it's well worth it. the earlier turbos(330's) have smaller shafts and don't hold up too well in my opinion. I'm leaving mine on, but then again, I'm not trying to run 12's with my Hotairs. The 33 John Craig has out is a nice one to get. I think you can use 86/87 ones and tehy will help a bit too, but I'm not 100% sure on that. An open air element like a K&N filter will help out some, but if it's not getting cool air to it, there's not much point HP wise. Throttle response will go up regardless, but if you're not making any more power(or even making less) what's the point? Cool air equals more power folks. The cooler the air, the denser the air. The denser the air, the more room you have for fuel, and the more air and fuel you get in there, the more power you can make. You should be able to manage some nice, solid mid-low 13's with the mods I listed...along with at least an adj. wastegate actuator rod, good gas, and traction. Run as much boost as you can without knock. To do this, you really need the ECM upgrade and a scantool. At least a knock gauge and air/fuel meter. If you run race gas, get a heated O2 sensor. You will burn out the stock ones and even the platinum ones will not last very long. I'm sure there's lots of other things people will touch on such as lighter weight parts, convertors, rear drum brake mods, airbags, etc. But I really don't feel they're necessary for 12's. Low 12's....maybe some of it. 2800convertors are nice :D
Hey Ttype84,
I'm doing a lot better on the prices this second time around. I'm taking my time getting some used stuff. I even got a walbro 307 for $50. I was going to have a lot less in the 87, at least until this knocking sound is now coming from the motor.
thats what im talkin about mike! you can get alot of stuff cheaper if you just know whwere to look,OR, if you do the smart thing and buy used on parts that dont really get worn out.. i got my first boost gauge for $20, and my K&N was free from my friend neal whyte, he put a 14" on his 9 second beast and didnt need the 9" anymore.. sutff like that saves me money.. :)