How To: Extending The Casper Plug-n-Play to mount almost anywhere.

[BMF_Racing]

STUFF/TOOLS NEEDED:

- Casper plug-n-play MAFT Pro harness
- MAFT Pro standard harness
- soldering iron/pencil with flux filled solder
- small heat shrink tubing
- lighter or heat-gun
- wire stripper/cutters



The Factory Harness for MAFT Pro:

The Casper p-n-p Harness for MAFT Pro

match up the wires from the connectors back.

the cut off ends you dont use from the Casper p-n-p Harness

cut the above ends off the Casper p-n-p Harness and solder the wires one at a time to the MAFT Pro harness, but dont forget to put the shrink tubbing on first

all soldered together

heat the shrink tube up with a lighter or heat gun centered over the soldered area

finished product is now plenty long:

close-up

so what does everyone think ??

 

[Whut]

I think it would be beneficial to the people that want to mount the unit someplace on their left like off the A-pillar or something. I sold my unit so I wouldnt be able to test this and provide actual feedback.

You may want to post this on fullthrottletech as it would get to more MAFTPro users there.

 

[FastRegalWE2]

although I dont have the unit, its still a nice write up and nice to see someone take the time to do stuff like this.
Thank you

 

[BMF_Racing]

I think it would be beneficial to the people that want to mount the unit someplace on their left like off the A-pillar or something. I sold my unit so I wouldnt be able to test this and provide actual feedback.

You may want to post this on fullthrottletech as it would get to more MAFTPro users there.

cool, thanks. will do.

 

[C-RAID]

Excellent thread. I hope to be using this information in the future. Thank you for putting the time into this.

 

[GNVenom]

I would have suggested this:

30 inch Extension
Since it's only 30 inches, would it be long enough? It will get your unit into the center console though.

You should limit the length of wire to only what you need though. Whenever there are low level signals present, you need to be careful of EMI interference.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

John, with either extension method, is there a good way to shield the harness from EMI?

 

[GNVenom]

Easiest way to shield potential EMI and RFI is to use some aluminum duct tape, wrap it around the entire bundle completely, then put a small "whisker" wire in contact with the shield and to a chassis ground. That keeps external noise out, but doesn't really do much for internal "crosstalk" between the wires. That's another issue...

Safest thing is to keep wiring as short as possible. In a perfect world, any low level sensor such as the airtemp or O2 sensor would need the paired wires twisted together, maybe one twist per inch, to negate any close EMI effects.

 

[GNVenom]

BTW, BMF you did the wiring exactly right, textbook style. Kudos for the good advice...

You can appreciate soldered and heatshrunk connections compared to some I've seen over the years (wirenuts and scotchlocks come to mind).

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Easiest way to shield potential EMI and RFI is to use some aluminum duct tape, wrap it around the entire bundle completely, then put a small "whisker" wire in contact with the shield and to a chassis ground. That keeps external noise out, but doesn't really do much for internal "crosstalk" between the wires. That's another issue...

Safest thing is to keep wiring as short as possible. In a perfect world, any low level sensor such as the airtemp or O2 sensor would need the paired wires twisted together, maybe one twist per inch, to negate any close EMI effects.

Thank you, sir!

 

[BMF_Racing]

BTW, BMF you did the wiring exactly right, textbook style. Kudos for the good advice...

You can appreciate soldered and heatshrunk connections compared to some I've seen over the years (wirenuts and scotchlocks come to mind).

thanks.