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I got the shakes

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The TCC wiring should not matter at all in this situation. As stated above something may be getting pinched or shorting out if the engine torques over. How are the motor mounts?
 
The IAC/minimum air rate may be off. "Usually" the Idle rpm is higher in park than it is in gear.

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MeanBuicks said:
The TCC wiring should not matter at all in this situation. As stated above something may be getting pinched or shorting out if the engine torques over. How are the motor mounts?
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Mounts are all new and I've checked the loom nothing pinched
 
About 20-25 with a warm engine in Park. Turn the minimum air rate screw clockwise to bring the IAC counts down. Check your TPS setting aftet and readjust it if needed

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TexasT said:
Do you have the brake switch wired wrong where it is locking the converter when you apply the brakes?

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I'm still having this issue it's my only problem now how should I check the brake switch wiring
 
Doubtful it is the break wiring. So are you saying when you shift to Reverse or Drive the car shakes and stalls out? If so, the problem is a stuck TCC apply valve in the pump. Please confirm this is what is happening and I will tell you how to check it.
 
v6turbo87 said:
Doubtful it is the break wiring. So are you saying when you shift to Reverse or Drive the car shakes and stalls out? If so, the problem is a stuck TCC apply valve in the pump. Please confirm this is what is happening and I will tell you how to check it.
Click to expand...
This exactly what's going on. How do I know for sure the car idles ok throttle and sounds great in park but in gear it shakes so bad its embarrassing I took it up the street a bit and it stuttered pinged when I tried to get on it I pulled over and it died I drove back in 1st gear it was a lil smoother I was only four houses away.
 
buddy said:
Subscribing
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v6turbo87 said: ↑

Doubtful it is the break wiring. So are you saying when you shift to Reverse or Drive the car shakes and stalls out? If so, the problem is a stuck TCC apply valve in the pump. Please confirm this is what is happening and I will tell you how to check it.

This exactly what's going on. How do I know for sure the car idles ok throttle and sounds great in park but in gear it shakes so bad its embarrassing I took it up the street a bit and it stuttered pinged when I tried to get on it I pulled over and it died I drove back in 1st gear it was a lil smoother I was only four houses away.


A moment ago
 
If you had the engine or transmission out of the car, check to see if you have anything pinched between them .

Bryan
 
My knock sensor was never in until the other day now in park when I throttle it I'm getting an o2 of 697 knock is showing 9.3 at that point I have to find what's going on what does this mean
 
If the TCC apply valve is stuck the engine should stall out as soon as you put it in drive or reverse. To check it involves some work. You need to drop the transmission pan and remove the TCC solinoud. Once that is out look up into the bore the solinoid was removed from. You will see a disk with a hole in it secured by a snap ring. Above that disk is the TCC apply spool valve. Above the valve is a spring that you can't see. You can test to see if the valve moves freely by inserting an awl or a small screwdriver through the hole in the disk. You should be able to push up on the vavle and the spring should push it back down. It should move very smoothly and not blind. If it doesn't that is probably your problem. To fix it you need to remove the snap ring to get the disk, valve, and spring out. Inspect the vavle for burrs and the bore for debris or damage. You can clean up the valve with crocus cloth. Clean the bore and reinsert the valve in the bore holding the end with needle nose plyers. Try moving it in the bore without the spring. If it moves freely try it with the spring and the disk in place. If it moves freely you are good to go.

As I said this is a fair amount of work.
 
My#2 plug is fuel fouled the rest look like they are ok I'm gonna start there then I'll go into the trans thanks for the info I kinda think its timing related because this trans has under 20k on it it's my original
 
This week I finally found the culprit.... The cam sensor wasn't in all the way the little things always get overlooked :p The only thing now that I'm ready to take it out for a run my fuel pump is taking a :poop: walbro less than a yr old I wonder if gbody will warranty it thanks to everyone that helped
 
MeanBuicks said:
What have you changed lately? Perhaps the motor is missing which is felt more in gear?
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After almost a year and a bunch of head scratching you were right the miss caused the shake which was cause by a faulty injector I'm shopping around for a new set now
 
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