I Need Input from You Guys on a Turbo for My Street Car

[turbonatr]

I'm looking for some input from you guys because I can't seem to make up my own mind. I am taking the engine from my GN and sticking it in my T-Type (which is a street/strip/daily driver). this engine went mid 10s in my full-weight GN with a Turbonetics T70 with a good deal left in it boost-wise. The engine consists of a stock block, crank and rods, forged pistons, stock compression ratio, ESP stage 4 cam (.450/.474 lift, 204*/214* duration @ .050"), ported/big valve irons, ported lower manifold and doghouse, 72lb. injectors and supporting fuel system, Duttweiler FMIC and the same Art Carr 9" NL used in the GN which spooled the T70 very well.

Now, here's the thing. I want to stick with a 3" inlet turbo as I am retaining the stock mass air sensor as well as the 3" inlet tube. Being that I am using the same converter used in the GN, I don't see a problem in spooling any available 3" inlet turbo. I was therefore thinking of a "stealth" turbo though there are many turbos on the market that are far more efficient than this old guy.

Any suggestions?

 

[salvageV6]

Many of the new and even older turbos are 4" inlet in the larger sizes.

Adapters are easily available to retain your existing 3" stuff.

I wouldn't limit choice to 3" inlet turbos based on your info. provided.

$20 worth of adapter would open up a lot of turbo choices.

 

[turbonatr]

I used to run an adapter on my GN, 4" turbo inlet to a 5" custom made inlet tube...just didn't like the way it looked. I've actually been thinking of a PT61 or a Stealth. My brother-in-law runs a PT61 on his car and went 11.44 with the intercooler pipe blowing off just past the 660ft. mark at 18psi. He coasted through at 110mph. Very impressive little turbo!

 

[OneLethal87GN]

I went from a TE-60 to a TE-63-1 and the inlet went from 3 to 4". All I did was buy a 3-4" reducer hose from the plumbing dept. at Lowe's and 2 clamps and it looks just fine. I replaced my 3" inlet pipe with a straight piece of 4" tubing and 45 degree rubber elbow for more flow as well. The elbow replaced the reducer hose and the reducer hose was used to connect the 4" pipe to the stock MAF sensor. The bigger pipe set-up wasn't needed however. I believe the 3-4" reducer hose was about $5. If I were you I'd check the new GT series turbos out to see if they have the 3" opening you want. I'd also get the biggest I could that would match the injectors and convertor so you won't have to upgrade them too. JMO.

 

[turbonatr]

I could go with a 4" turbo and the reducer, but breathing through a 3" MAF and 3" inlet tube kind of defeats the purpose. Now, if I was swapping over the DFI from the GN to the T, then I can go with a 4" inlet tube and ditch the MAF. Such is not the case, however, as I am keeping the stock computer in the T.

 

[Ram Air TTA]

Why don't you just get the maf translator and the ls1 maf to work with your new combo? You will have the maf with the 4" opening and you can still use the stock computer.

 

[turbonatr]

3" inlet pipe doesn't "look fast". I'm trying to keep engine compartment as low-key as possible. This is why the Stealth turbo appeals to me so much. A 68mm turbo that looks like a TE44.

 

[Taffy]

When you start getting into the larger wheels, they are not as efficient as being in the larger housings.

The TE67 would work out very well.

You could even go with the TE67Q with the TO4E compressor housing. It is not used much, but can be done.

I think that you are losing out on a lot of power by sticking to the smaller housings.

You never did tell us what your goals with this car are??

How fast do you want to go?

 

[turbonatr]

The T is at least 300lbs. lighter than my GN which went 10.79 with this engine without pushing it. I don't see a problem going high 10s with the right turbo.