I raised timing on powerlogger and blm is up to 170 at 1/8 mi run, inj max also

[stevek]

Have you done the "rag test" on the sensor?
What FP gauge are you using?

I have an old mechanical fp gauge that came with kenne bell fuel pump, inj , fp reg, kit years ago. i just ordered one thats mounts to motor at least i can be sure what it is set at,it is liquid filled from gnu performance, what is rag test on sensor ?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A "how to", in living color!

 

[earlbrown]

^That's way better than those teletype/Morse videos you started out with.

 

[stevek]

A "how to", in living color!

thanks for video i"ll give it a try thanks

 

[Ttype6]

i going to take car back out and see again and ck fuel pressure, i tightened screw down on fp reg ity held at 90 then put back at 45, now if im correct at wot and boost is at 30 my fuel pressure should be at 75, i had 12.7 volts at wiring to pump motor running, i will post in awhile thanks

Do you have an AC Delco filter installed?
Is your fuel pump hotwired?
Do you have a volt booster?

 

[stevek]

A "how to", in living color!

just did test on wideband sensor , sensor max out lean with the line across gauge once it goes past 17 and scan master reads 19, now when sensor covered up with rag with brake cleaner in it the AEM gauge goes to max rich at 10 and the scan master goes and stays at 10.7 so that is about how much it is off , thanks

 

[stevek]

Do you have an AC Delco filter installed?
Is your fuel pump hotwired?
Do you have a volt booster?

yes on ac deco filter will be changing this week also
yes on hot wire to pump
no on volt booster or is that same as hot wire

 

[Ttype6]

AEM stays at 14.8, pl and scanmaster both 14.8 also, the pl input white wire reads 2.35,

The AEM gauge receives a signal from the controller that tells the gauge what to display. The controller also produces an analog output signal for the Data Logger. Based on the voltage to A/F curve that is programmed into the Powerlogger,the Powerlogger will display an A/F number based on the voltage it receives from the output signal from the AEM controller. For any given number that the powerlogger receives,their is a corresponding A/F number to display based on the voltage to A/F curve that Bob has installed in the Powerlogger for the AEM. If you send him a Powerlogger file he can see the voltages that the I/O terminal is seeing and will be able to see if the displayed A/F number is what it should be according to the program. If the powerlogger is displaying the correct number according to the voltage it is seeing,it is obeying the Voltage to A/F curve in the program and therefore is working correctly. This number could be correct or-
!. The programmed curve,on the Powerlogger could be the wrong one/not mach the output voltage from the AEM controller
2. The output signal from the AEM controller could be wrong.
3. Something could be changing the output voltage that the Powerlogger is seeing.

I tend to lean toward the gauge being right,but you do have a fuel delivery problem.

 

[Ttype6]

yes on hot wire to pump
no on volt booster or is that same as hot wire

If you have the pump hotwired,you should see the same voltage at the pump as you do at the battery 14V. The volt booster raises that voltage to around 16 only at full throttle so your fuel pump,computer,and coils see more voltage. This extra voltage to the pump improves output quite a bit.

 

[stevek]

If you have the pump hotwired,you should see the same voltage at the pump as you do at the battery 14V. The volt booster raises that voltage to around 16 only at full throttle so your fuel pump,computer,and coils see more voltage. This extra voltage to the pump improves output quite a bit.

I was just out checking voltage here it is:
car off v at battery 12.52v
car off volts at wire just before hot wire connector at rear of car 12.52v
car running volts at battery 13.67v
car running volts at alt 13.87v
car running volts with hot wire not hooked up at wire to pump 10.36v
car running volts with hot wire hooked up at wire going to pump 12.55v
car running volts with hot wire hooked up at wire just before hot wire circuit 12.52v
also the wire from the hot wire were it bolts onto the back of alternator get pretty hot to touch in a few minutes

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Here's a link to some data on voltage vs output on the Walbro 255...
http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?2788-Walbro-Fuel-Pumps-and-Flow-vs-HP-data

A 1.3 volt drop at the pump is considerable.
A .2 volt drop from alt to batt is OK.
The heat can be due to the alt operating for some time. Or, it could be that the output stud connection in the case is fubar. The crimp on the hot wire connector could be fubar, too.
Have you checked ground integrity?

 

[Ttype6]

also the wire from the hot wire were it bolts onto the back of alternator get pretty hot to touch in a few minutes

Look for corrosion,puss,and signs of heat at the fuse socket and relay socket and any other connections. The voltage at the pump should be very close to the voltage at the generator. There is some resistance pulling down the voltage, Any bad connection,including ground,could do this. You could also disconnect the hot wire and see if the lug on the generator gets as hot as fast.

 

[stevek]

Look for corrosion,puss,and signs of heat at the fuse socket and relay socket and any other connections. The voltage at the pump should be very close to the voltage at the generator. There is some resistance pulling down the voltage, Any bad connection,including ground,could do this. You could also disconnect the hot wire and see if the lug on the generator gets as hot as fast.

hey thanks for the advise on what to look for I did run the car for about 10 years when i first got it in upstate ny were they use salt pretty heavy in winter, i'll check all grounds also and see what i find thanks

 

[stevek]

Look for corrosion,puss,and signs of heat at the fuse socket and relay socket and any other connections. The voltage at the pump should be very close to the voltage at the generator. There is some resistance pulling down the voltage, Any bad connection,including ground,could do this. You could also disconnect the hot wire and see if the lug on the generator gets as hot as fast.

The fuse in the fuse socket on hot wire was melted , i unhooked hot wire at alt and the existing wire did not get hot with car running. but only 10.8, maybe cause of new fuse went up allittle, still checking other connections by the way i do have battery in trunk and a fuel shut off switch hooked up if that makes a difference.

 

[Ttype6]

The fuse in the fuse socket on hot wire was melted

I eventually switched to a much heavier fuse holder and soldered the wires to my relay terminals. Replacing the fuse won't fix it. I never had a voltage problem after that. Years later,when I removed the pump to upgrade to a double pump set-up,I noticed the power wire had a pretty good kink just before the pump connection. After finding that,I suspected that the kink was the actual cause of the resistance because there was very noticeable sings of heat at the kink. After you find and fix connection problems,re-connect the hotwire and check voltage. The goal is to get more voltage to the pump,so you must run the hotwire and a volt booster is a must because the pump will receive even more voltage. You have a voltage problem,but also have another problem with the wideband that will have to be addressed.

 

[stevek]

I eventually switched to a much heavier fuse holder and soldered the wires to my relay terminals. Replacing the fuse won't fix it. I never had a voltage problem after that. Years later,when I removed the pump to upgrade to a double pump set-up,I noticed the power wire had a pretty good kink just before the pump connection. After finding that,I suspected that the kink was the actual cause of the resistance because there was very noticeable sings of heat at the kink. After you find and fix connection problems,re-connect the hotwire and check voltage. The goal is to get more voltage to the pump,so you must run the hotwire and a volt booster is a must because the pump will receive even more voltage. You have a voltage problem,but also have another problem with the wideband that will have to be addressed.

I just voltage at fuse box at several fuses and it reads 13.1v but when i checked volts at wire from pump [light brown color wire attached to side of fuse box] and it only reads 11.0 volts I believe the wire goes thru fire wall then maybe to pump relay, i think relay is located on dr side fender, i still looking

 

[Ttype6]

I just voltage at fuse box at several fuses and it reads 13.1v but when i checked volts at wire from pump [light brown color wire attached to side of fuse box] and it only reads 11.0 volts I believe the wire goes thru fire wall then maybe to pump relay, i think relay is located on dr side fender, i still looking

No need to check voltages inside car. The voltage,the pump receives,is supplied through the wire connected to the lug on the back of the generator. The cause of the voltage drop,through that wire,is going to be caused by a poor connection somewhere in that circuit wherever there are connections between the generator and the pump. You found one at the fuse. Did you check to see how much voltage you have at the pump since you replaced the fuse. Again it should be close to generator voltage and the hotwire needs to be hooked up.

 

[stevek]

I just voltage at fuse box at several fuses and it reads 13.1v but when i checked volts at wire from pump [light brown color wire attached to side of fuse box] and it only reads 11.0 volts I believe the wire goes thru fire wall then maybe to pump relay, i think relay is located on dr side fender, i still looking

well finished cleaning terminals on relays and it did increase a little ;
with the hot wire not hooked up voltage at fuel pump connector 11.45 v
with hot wire hooked up and voltage at fp connector 12.85 v

 

[stevek]

No need to check voltages inside car. The voltage,the pump receives,is supplied through the wire connected to the lug on the back of the generator. The cause of the voltage drop,through that wire,is going to be caused by a poor connection somewhere in that circuit wherever there are connections between the generator and the pump. You found one at the fuse. Did you check to see how much voltage you have at the pump since you replaced the fuse. Again it should be close to generator voltage and the hotwire needs to be hooked up.

well finished cleaning terminals on relay and did increase alittle
with the hot wire not hooked up volts at fp connector is 11.45v
with the hot wire hooked up volts at fp connector is 12.85 v

 

[Ttype6]

well finished cleaning terminals on relay and did increase alittle
with the hot wire not hooked up volts at fp connector is 11.45v
with the hot wire hooked up volts at fp connector is 12.85 v

Motor running?