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GrndNatnl

Regal of the Dark Order
Joined
Aug 28, 2001
Messages
839
Now I got bigger problems. After fooling with the lockup this morning, I just had it out again, and the trans is seriously acting up. I dunno if fu*king with the lockup over and over caused a problem, which I'm afraid of, or whatever else could have gone wrong. It shifts firm as usual, but when I let off the gas, and tap it again, it has that "clunk" to it where it feels like theres play in the gear. Then when I'm slowing to a stop at a red light, it kinda has a shake, and i hear it going "clink-clink". I can feel it kinda tug or jolt.

Pleeeease, someone tell me what could have went wrong. I'm not looking forward to a trans rebuild which has already been rebuilt not too long ago. Any idea how much its gonna run if I have something seriously wrong? I'm quite upset right now, so I appriciate any and all ideas.
 
Sounds to me like you've got the TCC activated full-time, hence the clunkiness. If the problem is not electrical, you may have a bad tcc solenoid. It's failrly common for them to fail in this manner especially if yours is original.
 
Yeah, especially after I was fiddling with it so much after fixing the switch and trying to determine if it was working. How difficult is it to replace the solenoid if thats all I need?
 
I agree with Greg! To change the tcc, just takes dropping the pan, 2 bolts that hold it in and splicing the two wires.
 
My 87 Cutlass with the 2004R does that shaking thing when i stop. If feels like somethings binding and vibrating as it downshifts into first.

My torque converter doesn't lock up at all. Well actually it does every once in a while but you can tell the difference when it does, and most of the time it doesn't lock up at all like it should at 80km/h. It still does the shaking thing, whats wrong? I'm gonna post a copy of every problem with my tranny in another thread. Hope I finally get a real answer as to whats wrong. I don't have money to fix the pos. I'm really starting to hate the 2004R.
 
I think what my solution will be in the future is to pull my tranny out, and ship it off to Art Carr to be bullet-proofed. That should do the trick for a while. Thats about a grand I dont have in my wallet right now. Anyone care to donate? ;)
 
A new trans is great but the guys are talking $30 repair here. If you want it to be as painless as possible and it's not your daily driver, do this (like I did).

Day 1 - drop pan, filter and remove TCC solenoid. Clip the wires about 4" from the solenoid. You'll want this much slack. Let the trans drip into a pan.

Day 2 - Buy new solenoid at auto parts store (I think Rotrex brand maybe? for a 700-R4; it comes with two shims to get the proper length). Buy a new pan gasket too and a drain plug if you don't have one already. Clean out your pan and magnet. Install the drain plug. Make sure you have a soldering iron and some shrink tubing. Trans is still dripping into pan.

Day 3 - Solder new TCC to existing wires and shrink tube the connections. Install TCC back into the trans. Check the two points at the trans electrical plug for the TCC with a multimeter and ensure you have 20-26 ohms (IMPORTANT!). Drips have probably lessened but still dripping. :D

Day 4 - Reinstall pan and new gasket. Strain old fluid through cheesecloth and refill trans.

Day 5 - Start car and warm to operating temp. Check fluid, top off if necessary and go for test drive. Should lock up normally and life is good.

If I had done it this way, I would have had less problems when I did mine. I had the same signals as you but ignored them until I got stuck out in the country and was worried I wouldn't get home without a nice $60 tow bill.
 
Why Art Carr......

Originally posted by GrndNatnl
I think what my solution will be in the future is to pull my tranny out, and ship it off to Art Carr to be bullet-proofed. That should do the trick for a while. Thats about a grand I dont have in my wallet right now. Anyone care to donate? ;)

I'll donate some sound advice.... http://www.2004rperformancecenter.com/ you'll be much happier in the long run! :D
 
Definately... Bruce is the man. But I cant imagine the cost of shipping to ship my trans out to Sacremento, CA. Makes my balls shrivel just thinking about it.

**Update: Took the GN out this afternoon to get my brakes and rotors for the daily beater. No sign of the problem I was having before. Shifting is firm as hell, and no more of that weird clunkiness when slowing to a stop. I did the 45 mph lockup solenoid test w/ tapping the brake with foot still on the gas, works great. I hear it unlock and lock. Did it a few times and its flawless. I'd still -like- to assume that when the trans was redone (not even a year ago yet) that that thing was replaced anyway. Switch works and all too, so I think it was just a case of: the trans was hot as a firecracker from buzzing around and playing with the lockup that morning, and it mighta stuck partway locked up. Runs great now. So I think I'm alright. I'll purchase a spare solenoid anyway, just to have in the toolbox incase of any future problems.

Soooo.. that means I'm still going to Buick Day at Cecil County Dragway this year!
 
Dont be surpised if there problem comes back on a hot day driving after about a hour on the road or so. The problem you had is a TCC solinoid that gets too hot or old at least that what happins to alot of mine here in hot tampa. The TCC solinoid will lockup the converter as soon as it hits second gear if the TCC solinoid gets to hot and then when you are slowing down to a stop you will get that clattering shudder as your trans downs shifts from 2 to 1 and unlocks the converter at the same time. A overheating or old TCC solinoid will cause lockup in all gears BUT 1st. The older the TCC solinoid the lower the temps before it acts up. I would put a tranny cooler on if you dont have one and if you do then just replace the TCC solinoid and call it the end :)
 
You described the problem I experienced -exactly-. I'm gonna grab a new solenoid. And am definately going to install a good trans cooler, since they dont cost much at all. I need a good place to mount it though. Where do you recommend? I prefer a black one, so that it cant be seen behind the grille, and if I put it right behind the grille on the radiator, I'm afraid it'll restrict air through the radiator. I guess with the 160* thermostat, it shouldnt be a problem anyway.

What's in the factory radiator already, isnt it just an engine oil cooler? The two lines running from the oil filter port to the radiator kinda hint that one, but there is no factory trans cooler hookup is there? Someone mentioned that once, but I wasnt sure to believe it or not.
 
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