I want this knock GONE

[BlackMetal]

I teed in on passenger side just aft of where the hard line is going up to the doghouse. Used 1 of those plastic "t's" sold in the auto stores, 1 end goes to the metal hard line via a short hose connector, 1 end goes to the hard black plastic line that goes ofer to the passenger side, and the "T" goes to about 10 feet of about 3/16" or so which is just jury rigged to go under the hood on dirver side at the rear and goes into the door jamb area, and then goes into thru the window to a vacuum-boost gage that just lays in the tray just ahead of the shifter handle. just temporary for right now.

So you're talking about going right off the vacuum tree? Seemed to me like the hard vacuum lines up there would be a b!!ch to pull off. I could try that though. For the moment I plan on running a temporary setup like yours too.

 

[suicide six]

Start off by telling us what is currently on your car beyond stock setup.FP reg,pump,chip,turbo etc.

 

[Bescurred]

T into where the vacumm hose goes into the MAP sensor you want to be as far from the intake as you can.

 

[BlackMetal]

Start off by telling us what is currently on your car beyond stock setup.FP reg,pump,chip,turbo etc.

Everything stock except what's in my signature. What more can I say?

 

[suicide six]

Another chip would be a good start,Check vac lines for leaks,esp at TB block area.Exhaust leaks before turbo.With you mileage these are probably good.Check losse grd at passenger rear head,this grd will give you false o2 wot reading thus making static FP adjustments out of whack.Swap out MAF if possible w/knowngood unit.Are you sure exh.isnt hitting?Motor strapped or strap too tight?What plugs installed and what gap?When was the last time plug wires were replaced.There is no easy answer here,just gotta start eliminating common trouble areas.Totally missed signature----sorry.

 

[suicide six]

Turbo Regal Knock Problem Check List
1. Start-up knock? Normal and usually caused by the starter engaging the flex plate. Usually sets off 1-3 lights.
2. Possible bad ECM or ESC module. Test with good working units.
3. Exhaust rattle – check the down pipe, tail pipes, and have engine tie down strap
4. Boost creep especially top of 1st gear on 1-2 shift.
5. Lean air/fuel mixture.
6. To low octane gas – bad pump gas – try some race gas
7. Too much timing in chip for fuel used. Try different chip.
8. Try cooler spark plugs – use only AC Delco (R43-TS or R42-TS)
9. Gap plugs to .035
10. Check torque converter bolts to make sure they are tight
11. Loose harmonic balancer. Make sure torqued to 200 ft/lb Is keyway secure?
12. Check internal engine noises like timing chains (roller), lifters/rockers, etc.
13. Damaged knock sensor
14. Check fuel pump pressure and volume
15. Proper torque on knock sensor – 14 ft/lb
16. Check Alternator voltage: 13.8 - 14.5v
17. Check computer power wire - they can break internally.
18. Troubleshoot the computer connector power wires and ground wires.
19. Swap coil pack, wires, plugs w/known good units.
20. Swap MAF with known good unit.
21. Check battery ground connection @ block (clean/inspect).
22. Check/change battery cables (both).
23. Are there MAF leaks in the inlet tube?
24. Are there vacuum leaks. Use carb cleaner or WD-40 & spray everything. Does the rpm change?
25. Disconnect the main injector harness - inspect, WD-40. Check for moisture in main connector.
26. Disconnect the coil-pack connector - inspect pins & spray w/WD-40.
27. Is the cat still installed? Is it good?
28. Have you performed a leak down check?
29. Do the rockers open/close? Do we have a wiped cam lobe?
30. Is the boost/vacuum steady @ idle?
31. Is the engine over revving? Should be 4,800-5,200 rpm
32. Carbon in cylinders? Clean with GM engine top cleaner
33. Inter-cooler dirty? Clean inside inter-cooler and fins
34. Oil in intake tract?
35. Check for exhaust leaks, cracked header
36. Battery good?
37. EGR valve in working order?
38. Check that no cables, wires, etc are touching the knock sensor
39. Blown head gasket? Compression test. Should be around 150.
40. Injectors flowing/working correctly?
41. Check vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator for cracks
__________________

 

[Gary Wells]

So you're talking about going right off the vacuum tree? Seemed to me like the hard vacuum lines up there would be a b!!ch to pull off. I could try that though. For the moment I plan on running a temporary setup like yours too.

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No, where the hard line ended (the other end) heading towards the MAP sensor. As Larry said the further away that you get from the manifold, the less needle flutter that you will have, but on the other hand, I don't want an extra line running clear across the engine compartment or firewall.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Nice Check list Suicide.

 

[BlackMetal]

34. Oil in intake tract?

I know when I installed the cold air kit, when I removed the factory flex tube going to the turbo, there was a small trail of oil settled at the bottom of it. So what does that indicate?

Also, I don't think anyone noticed in one of my last posts I had asked if typical auto parts stores have vacuum hose that you can buy?

 

[Gary Wells]

Yes, they do, and they also have a rack containing the plastic fittings also.

 

[87buickracer]

tps/fuel pressure

your tps voltage is .40.typical setting is .42-.44. I run .44-.45 on tps voltage and 45psi fuel pressure with line off and 18 -20 psi boost on the street with alcohol injection.reset your tps voltage to.44 and check fuel pressure at idle and wot.this setting should help and run a bottle of 104 octane booster to help suppress detonation.check exhaust to make sure it's not hitting chasis,motor mounts,and ground wire to engine and battery.If sensor is original,change it.make sure bell housing and torque converter bolts are tight.start out at 12psi of boost and work your way up to 16-17psi.If detonation occurs i would check fuel pump,regulator and injectors.eventually if problem continues I would have engine diagnostics perfomed.a bad ignition system could also cause detonation.just my 2 cents.

 

[stizkidz]

Do your self a favor, get a 30psi boost guage. I was relying on the factory boost guage and it was pegging at red very easilly. I installed a 20 psi boost guage only to dicover that I could also peg the guage at 20psi fairly easilly. I was pushing 20+ psi without even knowing it. Now I take it easy until I turn my boost down, way down...

 

[Gary Wells]

your tps voltage is .40.typical setting is .42-.44. I run .44-.45 on tps voltage and 45psi fuel pressure with line off and 18 -20 psi boost on the street with alcohol injection.reset your tps voltage to.44 and check fuel pressure at idle and wot.this setting should help and run a bottle of 104 octane booster to help suppress detonation.check exhaust to make sure it's not hitting chasis,motor mounts,and ground wire to engine and battery.If sensor is original,change it.make sure bell housing and torque converter bolts are tight.start out at 12psi of boost and work your way up to 16-17psi.If detonation occurs i would check fuel pump,regulator and injectors.eventually if problem continues I would have engine diagnostics perfomed.a bad ignition system could also cause detonation.just my 2 cents.

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Do not use any octane booster in these cars. All octane boosters use something called MBT to increase the octane rating. It is what leaves the orange deposits on your plugs, it is what will plug your cat, if running one, and it will shorten the life of the Nox sensor noticably. Also, are you aware that octane boosters like 104 claiming to raise your octane level 10 or 20 points, but are you aware that a point is only 1/10 of an octane. If you are going to do anything like that, then go buy about 5 gals of 100 octane unleaded and mix it in your next tank of gas, or drain your tank almost empty and put the 100 octane in it straight, and if you have real knock, it should go away or decrease noticably. some states have as high as 104 octane unleaded right out of the pump at race gas stations & hi-po shops. HTH

 

[Jerryl]

Yeah...I know...another thread where someone wants help with a knock issue. Sorry. It's getting on my nerves though, tonight I had an Eclipse pull away from me on the highway because my ScanMaster started registering knock..

Any results?

 

[buzzman]

how much knock and where? your setup is very similar to mine, when i went to the dutt neck, boost went up a pound and car ran obviously leaner. i had to increase octane. if fuel checks out, i kind of get the feeling that you are uncertain about your chip.......call eric and tell him your problem and have him burn one for you....go from there.......get a real boost gauge.