identifying 87 GN goodies

[gnpete]

Hey Guys,

I need your help in identifying what's under the hood in my 87 GN. I bought it in May 2002. It's got 90,000 km (=54,000miles) on the odometer but it also came with an "extra" speedo which read 40,000 km (=24,000 miles). Based on the receipts that came with the car, both speedos were used so the car has 130,000 km on it.

I wanted to know the following

- type of injectors
- fuel regulator - it's BOSCH but is it adj?
- intercooler - is it stock? how about the neck?
- turbo - didn't take cover off to take a pic
- what chip?

Pics can be found : http://www.pbase.com/pmlphoto/87gn__unidentified_goodies

What I do know :

- air bags in rear springs
- BRF tranny
- stock 3.42 posi
- hooker down pipe
- headers (I assume it's also hooker but not positive)
- 12" K&N air filter
- aftermarket external tranny cooler
- B&M supercooler (oil) - I installed it
- vacuum brakes
- "rhyno" dual mufflers

The car goes like stink (compared to my old one (stolen) which ran 13.8 in stock trim)

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by gnpete
I wanted to know the following

- type of injectors
- fuel regulator - it's BOSCH but is it adj?
- intercooler - is it stock? how about the neck?
- turbo - didn't take cover off to take a pic
- what chip?

Injectors - Ford red tops I think they are 30#
FPR - a Bosch 237 with an aftermarket ajustable top
Intercooler - stock with a stock neck.
Turbo - Stock (at most a TA49) remove the inlet hose to see if the inlet bell is machined or "as cast". As cast bell means stock turbo.
Chip - someones stock injector (28#) chip - someone here will probably recognize the handwriting.

You've got a good set up there with only one glaring problem. If the headers ARE Hookers they ARE hurting performance (the hooker downpipe is fine)

 

[dpok69]

In the pic with the vacuum brake container there is a black cable running. i have the same black cable but with a box connection rather than your straight through connection. What the hell is that used for?

Someone told me it is a reducer. Y would someone put that on the car? When i drive 90 it will read like 45 mph on my digital dash and i think that hurts my fuel economy since ecm is seeing this.

 

[Topjimmy]

Standard speedometer cable is 2-piece like the pic.
If yours has a reducer, it may have been for an analog 140 mph dash overlay?
Maybe a previous owner didn't like the "85 Flash"

 

[6pack]

Re: Re: identifying 87 GN goodies

Originally posted by UNGN


Turbo - Stock (at most a TA49) remove the inlet hose to see if the inlet bell is machined or "as cast". As cast bell means stock turbo.

You have me wondering now. The turbo on my car was replaced just before I bought it. I have the inlet/maf pipe off and my inlet bell looks machined, it's all smooth on the inside and out. Does this mean I have a TA49? Is there any other way to tell? Sorry to butt in on your thread gnpete

 

[UNGN]

Re: Re: Re: identifying 87 GN goodies

Originally posted by 6pack
You have me wondering now. The turbo on my car was replaced just before I bought it. I have the inlet/maf pipe off and my inlet bell looks machined, it's all smooth on the inside and out. Does this mean I have a TA49? Is there any other way to tell? Sorry to butt in on your thread gnpete

If the bell is machined and not cast (with a breather provision) the odds are pretty good the turbo is larger than stock. It takes a lot of material removal to match a stock turbo to one of these aftermarket inlet bells. It would be a noticeable step down from the bell to the compressor impeller diameter.

Measure the inlet of the turbo with the bell off. This is the easiest way to tell between a TA49 and a stocker.

 

[6pack]

It's a stocker

Looked at it last night and the casting marks are visible on top of the bell. Also has 7 blades! Thanks.

 

[gnpete]

thanks for your reply(s), UNGN.

My heart sank when I saw the four letter f-word in your message. I did a bit more snooping on the injectors and this is what I found:

1. # 0 280 150 756 Bosch Red Tops 32.0 #/hr
2. used in F*** Supercoupe ref : http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/injflow.html
3. used in syclone typhoon ref: "PART #" section of http://www.sytyauthority.net/

6pack: no probs dude, hope you get your cable resolved

When I get a chance, one of these days I'll take a closer look at the turbo and take some pics ->"remove the inlet hose to see if the inlet bell is machined or "as cast". As cast bell means stock turbo. "


UNGN : not sure what you meant by the setup having "one glaring problem" ? is it the F*** injectors or is it the Hooker headers. If it is the headers, is the problem with the manufacturer or headers in general.

Is there a way I can easily tell who makes the headers? (post more pics?)

Thanks guys, Pete in Canada

 

[Topjimmy]

Hooker makes great cat-back exhaust systems for our cars, but their headers usually hurt performance in stock or near-stock TR's.

I'd recommend a set of stock manifolds, beware of the infamous drivers side cracking, and you'll be set all the way to low 11's or even faster.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by gnpete
UNGN : not sure what you meant by the setup having "one glaring problem" ? is it the F*** injectors or is it the Hooker headers. If it is the headers, is the problem with the manufacturer or headers in general.

Is there a way I can easily tell who makes the headers? (post more pics?)

Thanks guys, Pete in Canada

There is nothing really wrong with red tops. Red Armstrong has said in the past that Red tops don't flow as well as 28# stock injectors at similar pressures. I wouldn't recommend that anyone "upgrade" to them, but as long as you have them already, they should be fine.

Hooker headers are very distinctive in that they collect under the car and then have a pipe that comes up to the turbo (vs. the turbo sitting on the passenger side exhaust manifold).

They can hurt spoolup and won't increase performance significantly until the tens.

Take some pictures of the headers and post them. They will be ID'd in seconds here.

 

[arista5]

fix the eyebolt dont leave the strap on the bracket like that, the bolt is less than 2 bucks at a hardware store and not worth busting the bracket over...