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Installing front springs

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Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
Joined
Dec 3, 2005
Messages
190
Hey everyone. I'm trying to install my new Kirban front springs with my new Spohn front A-arms. The A-arms go in fine, but the springs just sit down too low to get them into the spring seat in the A-arm. How do I get the spring into the spring seat? Am I missing something? Everything I read says that a spring compressor shouldn't be needed. Please help. Thanks in advance.
 
Do you only have the ball joint end of the A-arm disconnected? You can't let the lower arm hang down like that and expect to get the spring into the seat. You need to take out the two long bolts that hold the A-arm to the frame and drop the entire thing. Balance the spring in its seat, then jack up the A-arm and spring together and maneuver the a-arm around until you can get those bolt holes lined up.

springremoval.gif
 
i disagree- put the inner bolts thru but dn't tighten them up, get the spring in there, and jack up the arm under the balljoint until you can get the balljoint to go into the spindle and get the nut on it.
leverage is your friend, and horter, stiffer aftermarket springs are easier to put in than taller, lighter oem springs.
of course, if you don't have the engine in the car, then all that will happen is that the front of the car will lift up without the spring compressing- in which case, either get a spring compressor, or wrap a beefy (1/4" links) chain around the frame and the axle on the front of the floor jack to hold the frame down while the balljoint is jacked up.
 
Thanks for the help guys. A buddy of mine was nice enough to keep trying to get everything together on Sat. when I had to go and he tried both ways with no success. He said that, by jacking the arm up into place with the spring on it, the spring only compressed so much before it started lifting the whole car. :eek: We tried to swing the arm up, but the spring sat down too far to get it into the seat. Do we need to use a prybar to get the spring up high enough to get it into the seat? Or should we look at a spring compressor? Thanks for the help so far guys, I really appreciate it.
 
Any recommendations on a good spring compressor? We rented one from Kragen, but couldn't see how in the world to get it off the spring once the A-arm is in place.
 
Any recommendations on a good spring compressor? We rented one from Kragen, but couldn't see how in the world to get it off the spring once the A-arm is in place.

There are two types. The one with the four hooks, and the other with the two hooks and the flat piece. I've used both and prefer the one with the four hooks on it.

If it has four hooks - make sure you put it a few coils from the top and bottom so you can get it out.

If it has the flat piece - you need to position it a few coils up and in a position so it is not "caught" by the A-arm. If I recall correctly, line it up so it runs parallel to the frame of the car.

To make it easier, just use the one with the four hooks on it. Use zip ties to hold the hooks in place when you are tightening it down - or else you will need about three to four hands to hold everything in place.

Don't forget to cut the zip ties off before you put it in the car. Also, use some anti-sieze on the threads of the spring compressor - makes it compress a bit easier.
 
Just found one on Summit. Thanks for the help guys. I'll keep you all posted on the project. Here's what I've got planned...

New springs, front and rear
New shocks, Bilstein, front and rear
New lower A-arms, Spohn, chrome-moly
New upper control arms, Spohn, chrome-moly, adjustable
New lower control arms, Spohn
New stainless steel brake lines, Russell, front and rear
New sway bar bushings and end-links, Energy Suspension, front
New brake pads, Hawke
New rotors, bearings, seals and hardware
New shoes and drum-springs

I'm a little anxious to see how she performs to say the least :D
 
Just saw this post

Sorry, would have sent this earlier, this is the compressor I used taking my springs in and out. Need an air compressor and gun, but overall pretty easy to use. Word of caution, make sure the rear of the shoe seats, and watch carefully to make sure it does not slip around spring while compressing.
 

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Thanks for the pic Assassin, that confirms that I just bought the right one from Summit. :)

I do have one last question. My Chilton's manual says I need a special tool to get the lower ball joint back into the spindle, but everything I read says just to jack it up into place. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Also, it says that the proper torque for the castle nut is 81 ft./lbs., but Spohn just told me 51 ft./lbs. Which sounds right? Thanks a bunch everyone.
 
Thanks for the pic Assassin, that confirms that I just bought the right one from Summit. :)

I do have one last question. My Chilton's manual says I need a special tool to get the lower ball joint back into the spindle, but everything I read says just to jack it up into place. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Also, it says that the proper torque for the castle nut is 81 ft./lbs., but Spohn just told me 51 ft./lbs. Which sounds right? Thanks a bunch everyone.


No special tool needed. Just guide it in and tighten it up. I would stick with Spohn's recommendation on their control arm.
 
Sorry, would have sent this earlier, this is the compressor I used taking my springs in and out. Need an air compressor and gun, but overall pretty easy to use. Word of caution, make sure the rear of the shoe seats, and watch carefully to make sure it does not slip around spring while compressing.

I did the springs on my car over the winter. I used this to remove the springs. DEADLY!!!! The bottom part came flying out at me.:eek: :mad: For install I used the type with 4 hooks. Much SAFER :biggrin:
 
Easy with the compressor, don't hurt yourself either way. I didn't have any problems at all with the two hook compressor, just took my time and was very cautious. Good Luck with the project!!!!
 
Thanks for the help everyone. My spring compressor arrives today and we're gonna go at it this weekend. I'll keep you all updated (and try and get some pics).
 
The problem I've found with spring compressors is the bolt is bigger than the shock hole.

Jacking the lower A-arm up shouldn't "lift the whole car up", especially if you don't tighten the lower ball joint.

The the key is to put as much of the weight of the car on the front springs. If you have jackstands on the frame, move the back jackstands to the rear axle so as much of the weight forward of the rear axle as possible goes into the spring compression.

When you get it close, use a large screwdriver to align the LCA bolt holes.
 
We got it!! :D We ended up having to compress the spring and then jack the arm up and attach it to the frame. Thanks everyone for the help. Next is the pass. side...then the world!!! Err, maybe just the rear of the car. :)
 
Well, both front springs and A-arms are in. Here's some pics of some of the parts. More to come. :)

Here's a comparison of the stock front driver's-side and one of the new Kirban springs,...
gn_front_spring_comp.jpg


...the old driver's-side lower A-arm and the new Spohn pass.-side lower A-arm,...
gn_lower_a-arm_comp.jpg


...the old driver's-side lower A-arm...
gn_old_lower_a-arm.jpg


...and the new Spohn pass.-side lower A-arm...
gn_new_lower_a-arm.jpg
 
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